420/44 DB Owners Club

Picture bolts
 

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Picture bolts
Those are high strength Grade 9 (180KSI) 12 point fine thread cap screws. ARP makes them in a stainless alloy and a 12 point high strength nut. But pricey...... These through Mcmaster-Carr will work just fine also - https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/12-point-screws/
With these nuts - https://www.mcmaster.com/nuts/locknuts/high-strength-steel-nylon-insert-locknuts-grade-8/
Get them in the black oxide finish.
They need to be the high strength to develop the clamping force needed for that flange. Make sure you torque them correctly during installation.
Sorry I can't help with the size unless we both have the same engine/gear.
 
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Those are high strength Grade 9 (180KSI) 12 point fine thread cap screws. ARP makes them in a stainless alloy and a 12 point high strength nut. But pricey...... These through Mcmaster-Carr will work just fine also - https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/12-point-screws/
With these nuts - https://www.mcmaster.com/nuts/locknuts/high-strength-steel-nylon-insert-locknuts-grade-8/
Get them in the black oxide finish.
They need to be the high strength to develop the clamping force needed for that flange. Make sure you torque them correctly during installation.
Sorry I can't help with the size unless we both have the same engine/gear.
Thanks for the info, will look into those.
They are on 2005 Diamond series 450’s and ZF 280’s, 2” shafts.
The nuts on the forward side are just standard hex nuts.
 
Does anyone know the standard gap between props and struts for our model boats? Also what's diameter of the forward side of hub?
I came across a good deal for line cutters and want to see if they fit in the space without having to dive the boat. And how much gap needs to be left for water flow through the cutlass bearing? thanks

OK, at fist I didn't think I had much interest in this thread as I am not planning on installing line cutters but, After seeing the reply's it has caught my eye. Reply's are claiming 1-1/2 - 2" between strut & prop! Mine measure about 1/4" or less!
I know you want to have room for water to flow thru the cutlass for cooling. In the last 4 years since purchase we have put 7000 miles on her without ill effect, so I am not that worried about the cooling factor, just curious of any ideas for the discrepancy from other boats? any thoughts?
Also as side note every year when we haul out the prop nuts on the starboard side seem to be backed away from the prop! Talked to the yard where we will store this winter, they are going to take a look & claim they sometimes put Loctite on them! Again any thoughts? Thanks
 
OK, at fist I didn't think I had much interest in this thread as I am not planning on installing line cutters but, After seeing the reply's it has caught my eye. Reply's are claiming 1-1/2 - 2" between strut & prop! Mine measure about 1/4" or less!
I know you want to have room for water to flow thru the cutlass for cooling. In the last 4 years since purchase we have put 7000 miles on her without ill effect, so I am not that worried about the cooling factor, just curious of any ideas for the discrepancy from other boats? any thoughts?
Also as side note every year when we haul out the prop nuts on the starboard side seem to be backed away from the prop! Talked to the yard where we will store this winter, they are going to take a look & claim they sometimes put Loctite on them! Again any thoughts? Thanks
Interesting you say your starboard side nuts being backed away. When my boat was hauled for survey the nuts were loose on starboard side as well. When I dive the boat to clean the bottom every couple months I check them and so far they have been tight.
As for the gap I’m surprised yours is so small. Would be hard to get a prop puller in that small a gap.
 
The space between prop and strut should not exceed the thickness of the shaft. As far as loose nuts check to make sure the smaller jam nut is against the prop with the larger nut as the lock nut. Lot of times it’s backwards
 
If you don't find a cap, maybe get a measurement of the tube diameter and find a kids ball slightly bigger that could be squeezed in. Or maybe a heavy duty plastic bag pulled tight around where the tube goes and with clamped or taped to seal?
Found the solution to stop the water from entering after removing the exhaust, your ball idea worked perfectly. Duckbills are done and while I was back there I replaced the waste line from the pump to black tank as it was all cracked.
20211015_183323.jpg
 
Beautiful, if SeaRay was still building these boats they would buy your design

Thanks Mark, it’ll be a shame to get it wet..

In SR’s defense the transom module is a module and therefore movable. So far $50k spent (which isn’t horrible) and as yet no ‘buyers remorse’ …

Having said that, I haven’t told the wife yet…
 
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Thanks Mark, it’ll be a shame to get it wet..

In SR’s defense the transom module is a module and therefore movable. So far $50k spent (which isn’t horrible) and as yet no ‘buyers remorse’ …

Having said that, I haven’t told the wife yet…
Was the bridge removed to fit inside the building or are you having work done up top too ?
 
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Was the bridge removed to fit inside the building or are you having work done up top too ?

The building is inland so had remove it to truck it.
 
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Thanks Mark, it’ll be a shame to get it wet..

In SR’s defense the transom module is a module and therefore movable. So far $50k spent (which isn’t horrible) and as yet no ‘buyers remorse’ …

Having said that, I haven’t told the wife yet…
Ignorance is bliss! Great job, that really does make sense to me, yo would have way more than 50 grand in changing boats to something with a bigger cockpit for sure and then you would need to spend more $$$ making it yours.
Carpe Diem
 
I see a drain hose in the fridge for defrosting. Where is the other end. Does it drain to the bilge or is it plumbed to go overboard like the sink?
 
Can't wait to see how your gates come out.

Decided not to fit any gates. Looked at all shapes and sizes but nothing worked. Decided to leave it open for now.

Maybe adapt the canvas, but only to stop things from ‘rolling out’ while underway.

Be interested on the general consensus though. To fit gates or to not fit gates? What do you think?
 
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Decided not to fit any gates. Looked at all shapes and sizes but nothing worked. Decided to leave it open for now.

Maybe adapt the canvas, but only to stop things from ‘rolling out’ while underway.

Be interested on the general consensus though. To fit gates or to not fit gates? What do you think?
Custom welded SS gates with the boat’s initials or SR logo would be a nice touch for sure. Why stop spending boat bucks at this point:)
 

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