460 DA Owners Thread

I think I actually have a water witch float switch in my garage and was going to use it for the shower sump area. I need to figure out how to wire it up as the current float switch only has 2 wires going to it.
 
Blown284 said:
I think I actually have a water witch float switch in my garage and was going to use it for the shower sump area. I need to figure out how to wire it up as the current float switch only has 2 wires going to it.
Click to expand...

It's really easy! Once you get it apart it will become clear...I think all float switches only have 2 wires going to them. I know all of mine do anyway. This was the best addition to the water system this year, I have never had such a clean shower sump!!! (especially after adding the "hockey puck" into the sump). We shower on the boat daily in the summer and the soap scum etc. can really make it nasty in there. But with the urinal cake, it is super clean!

One thing I learned about the witch...you don't need to install it at the bottom of the sump. Because it stays on for 6-8 seconds after the water stops making contact, it sucks it pretty clean. I did however move the check valve closer to the sump as opposed to where it was at 6' of hose away. The water would drain back in below the check valve and make it turn on again.
Also, if it is too low and you get underway on plane, I noticed that the little water that was still in the sump would cause the pump to run. We were on a long cruise in July and my wife noticed the sump light was on....had to adjust it while cruising down the lake. I attached mine to the hose clamp at the pump and turned it up until the contacts were about 1:00. (Assuming the top is high noon). That solved all of the run issues and still drained the sump.
 
Blown284 said:
Figured it out. I was a dumb ass and left the faucet for the fresh water wash down (for the anchor) on just a little bit. All fixed! Thank you so much. Wow.... can't believe I forgot that.
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Ironically funny to read your problem and self-discovered solution...when we first bought our 400EC, we noticed the water pump cycling on and off for a few seconds about every 5 minutes. It caused a BIG red flag when we filled the freshwater tank on that first Sunday as we left---when we got back to her the following Friday, the unused-but-recently-filled freshwater tank was almost empty! Drove me CRAZY that weekend, I followed every water line from the water pump forward and couldn't find any leaks so I assumed the tank itself had a slow leak. Then late that second Sunday I went to wash down after a fuel fill, and found the problem--the transom washdown hose has the "lift to turn on, spin for temperature" handle to start the water flow to the trigger-operated head. The leak was in the hose itself, just below the head. So if the handle is up and on there is pressure to the nozzle, there will be no flow OUT the nozzle but an out-of-sight leak below it in it's stowed position.

Now I glance at that faucet handle and make sure it's down and off every time I walk away from the boat--time has shown that more times than not, someone (usually me LOL) will have accidentally leaned against it and turned it on at some point while we're out :)
 
TheWolfTC said:
It's really easy! Once you get it apart it will become clear...I think all float switches only have 2 wires going to them. I know all of mine do anyway. This was the best addition to the water system this year, I have never had such a clean shower sump!!! (especially after adding the "hockey puck" into the sump). We shower on the boat daily in the summer and the soap scum etc. can really make it nasty in there. But with the urinal cake, it is super clean!

One thing I learned about the witch...you don't need to install it at the bottom of the sump. Because it stays on for 6-8 seconds after the water stops making contact, it sucks it pretty clean. I did however move the check valve closer to the sump as opposed to where it was at 6' of hose away. The water would drain back in below the check valve and make it turn on again.
Also, if it is too low and you get underway on plane, I noticed that the little water that was still in the sump would cause the pump to run. We were on a long cruise in July and my wife noticed the sump light was on....had to adjust it while cruising down the lake. I attached mine to the hose clamp at the pump and turned it up until the contacts were about 1:00. (Assuming the top is high noon). That solved all of the run issues and still drained the sump.
Click to expand...

I know you said it's real easy but the water witch appears to have more than 2 wires and the current
TheWolfTC said:
It's really easy! Once you get it apart it will become clear...I think all float switches only have 2 wires going to them. I know all of mine do anyway. This was the best addition to the water system this year, I have never had such a clean shower sump!!! (especially after adding the "hockey puck" into the sump). We shower on the boat daily in the summer and the soap scum etc. can really make it nasty in there. But with the urinal cake, it is super clean!

One thing I learned about the witch...you don't need to install it at the bottom of the sump. Because it stays on for 6-8 seconds after the water stops making contact, it sucks it pretty clean. I did however move the check valve closer to the sump as opposed to where it was at 6' of hose away. The water would drain back in below the check valve and make it turn on again.
Also, if it is too low and you get underway on plane, I noticed that the little water that was still in the sump would cause the pump to run. We were on a long cruise in July and my wife noticed the sump light was on....had to adjust it while cruising down the lake. I attached mine to the hose clamp at the pump and turned it up until the contacts were about 1:00. (Assuming the top is high noon). That solved all of the run issues and still drained the sump.
Click to expand...

Do you have a picture of where it's actually installed?
 
Blown284 said:
I know you said it's real easy but the water witch appears to have more than 2 wires and the current


Do you have a picture of where it's actually installed?
Click to expand...
The tan and red go to the 2 gray wires...black (ground) splice to black.

The pictures show The dark brown and black wire from the sump pump and the light brown, red and black from the water witch.

The black is ground and will get tied together with the other black ground wires.. The red and tan go to the gray wires. Which should be the two wires from your float switch. So, whatever they float switch was wired too is where the red and tan wires go.

I did install an in-line fuse, as it was suggested, that went between a gray wire and the red wire to the water witch.

if you can follow the two wires from the float switch, which are most likely gray, one of them goes to the brown wire with the orange tracer in it and the other gray wire goes to the solid brown wire from Sea Ray, witch is also the brown wire to the sump.

Let me know if that helps, or if you need more pictures.

C49228B2-E4D9-44D6-9447-4ADE43FCC2EE.jpeg
CADD1D2F-3859-4455-9BCF-6516442DDE42.jpeg
 
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Traditional float switches that use a 2-wire setup are basically like a light switch--a simple "normally open" mechanical blockage of the flow of either + or - current until the float closes the internal switch by rising. Their advantages are that they are very simple devices and not much can fail except the contact points, and that you can use them to control either + or - current. Their downside is they are a simple device, either on or off. When the float falls back below the trigger point the flow of electricity to the bilge pump stops, and whatever is in the output hose simply flows back into the sump unless the bilge pump has an internal backflow preventer. Also, the float itself can get crudded up and fail to drop back down as the water level drops, keeping the pump running even if there is nothing to pump out.

The Water Witch doesn't use a float, it is an active component that needs power to work itself-- it detects water via sensors and uses internal electronics to interpret those signals. Because it needs both sides of power itself to function in addition to the bilge pump signal wire, it has to use a 3 wire connection. It has a constant power supply (red wire, battery +), a constant ground (black wire, battery -) and an internally switched + output (brown wire--out to your pump and indicator light if you have one, energized when the sensors detect water at the preset level). Their advantage is that being electronic, they are programmed to run for additional time even after water detection falls below the sensor level--so whatever has bee pushed into the output hose will continue to be pushed all the way out the thru-hull. The downsides to a Water Witch are that it is susceptible to electronic failure/power surges, and that it can only provide + output....so if your current setup is using a switched negative, you're out of luck. It also isn't as accurate as a traditional float at detecting gas and oil in the bilge, just water.

The bottom line is whichever way you choose to go, periodically check and clean your sump or bilge and make sure both the float switch/Water Witch and the bilge pump itself are working as they should, rather than getting a nasty surprise when you try to figure out where that smell is coming from LOL :rolleyes:
Bilge and Water Witch Wiring.jpg
 
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Anyone here have the GHS hydraulic lift? I am getting the "BEEP BEEP BEEP" but nothing else, no movement up or down. I'm curious if I popped a breaker or something. If so, where is the breaker located? Thanks.
 
TheWolfTC said:
The tan and red go to the 2 gray wires...black (ground) splice to black.

The pictures show The dark brown and black wire from the sump pump and the light brown, red and black from the water witch.

The black is ground and will get tied together with the other black ground wires.. The red and tan go to the gray wires. Which should be the two wires from your float switch. So, whatever they float switch was wired too is where the red and tan wires go.

I did install an in-line fuse, as it was suggested, that went between a gray wire and the red wire to the water witch.

if you can follow the two wires from the float switch, which are most likely gray, one of them goes to the brown wire with the orange tracer in it and the other gray wire goes to the solid brown wire from Sea Ray, witch is also the brown wire to the sump.

Let me know if that helps, or if you need more pictures.

View attachment 92431View attachment 92432
Click to expand...

Thank you very much!
 
archinbalt said:
Hello fellow CSR fans! Despite having believed our 340 'dancer was the boat of our dreams, the bug bit us (well, more so me than the bride) and we have an offer in on a 2003 460. So other than saying hello and hoping to join the 460 clan, any things I should be looking for when we survey? Although I'm totally clueless about them, I'm really looking forward to diesels!
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We settled on the 460 and brought her up the Bay on Sunday - the Admiral and I are absolutely giddy with the boat, although there is quite a bit of debate over whether she is a "boat" vs. a "yacht". I'm perfectly fine with either. No debate over the new name - Gratitude sums it up.

So forgive me in advance, but I'll have lots of stupid questions over the upcoming year as I figure out and sort out the boat, or yacht, as the case may be.

Pictures and details forthcoming.
 
archinbalt said:
We settled on the 460 and brought her up the Bay on Sunday - the Admiral and I are absolutely giddy with the boat, although there is quite a bit of debate over whether she is a "boat" vs. a "yacht". I'm perfectly fine with either. No debate over the new name - Gratitude sums it up.

So forgive me in advance, but I'll have lots of stupid questions over the upcoming year as I figure out and sort out the boat, or yacht, as the case may be.

Pictures and details forthcoming.
Click to expand...

Congratulations!!!
 
archinbalt said:
We settled on the 460 and brought her up the Bay on Sunday - the Admiral and I are absolutely giddy with the boat, although there is quite a bit of debate over whether she is a "boat" vs. a "yacht". I'm perfectly fine with either. No debate over the new name - Gratitude sums it up.

So forgive me in advance, but I'll have lots of stupid questions over the upcoming year as I figure out and sort out the boat, or yacht, as the case may be.

Pictures and details forthcoming.
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Congratulations and best wishes for an awesome boating experience! There is PLENTY of technical expertise and good conversation to be had here, probably one of the best forums I use--I'm on it every day LOL

Your new boat definitely meets the criteria of also being called a yacht, be proud! The general rule is that a yacht is a boat longer than 35 feet (longer than 160 feet is considered a "superyacht")....it's used for pleasure and casual recreation rather than fishing, water sports, cargo, etc....and it has an upscale interior with large compartments like a home rather than a small cruiser-type boat--kitchen (galley), full bathroom (head), separate sitting area (saloon or salon).
 
Welcome to our corner of the internet! Congrats on the boat but without pics we can’t officially count you in


archinbalt said:
We settled on the 460 and brought her up the Bay on Sunday - the Admiral and I are absolutely giddy with the boat, although there is quite a bit of debate over whether she is a "boat" vs. a "yacht". I'm perfectly fine with either. No debate over the new name - Gratitude sums it up.

So forgive me in advance, but I'll have lots of stupid questions over the upcoming year as I figure out and sort out the boat, or yacht, as the case may be.

Pictures and details forthcoming.
Click to expand...
 
Blown284 said:
Anyone here have the GHS hydraulic lift? I am getting the "BEEP BEEP BEEP" but nothing else, no movement up or down. I'm curious if I popped a breaker or something. If so, where is the breaker located? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Reading through the troubleshooting manual, it states "
  1. Check circuit breaker usually located on the main DC circuit breaker panel in the engine room.". Where exactly is the circuit breakers in the engine room? I noticed, what looks like, a circuit breaker on the starboard side where all the switches are and also where I can see the conditions of the generator when it's running.


    Thoughts?
 
Hi All, Anyone have or know where to get hardware for the front state room sliding door and the cabin double sliding door ? 2000 Sea Ray 460.
 
Raymond Muller said:
Hi All, Anyone have or know where to get hardware for the front state room sliding door and the cabin double sliding door ? 2000 Sea Ray 460.
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FP Marine always seems to have that stuff. https://www.searay-parts.com/

If you figure out how to get that forward sliding door out, I would LOVE to know!!!
 
Raymond Muller said:
Awesome! thank you... Fingers crossed- if i get it out ill be sure to write back.
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the only way i know to get the pocket doors out is to take the jambs off then the door slides all the way out.
John
PS Ray i see you got a the 460.
 
Hi everyone, it’s me again. Yes, i know I’m full of questions and learning as I go. the subwoofer in the cockpit doesn’t appear to be working. Is there an amp for this speaker? I have the original Clarion XMD3 system. I’ve tried messing around with the balance and fade .... no luck. Before I go further, I wanted to see if I’m missing something or it’s just simply that subwoofer is no longer working.
 
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