460 DA Owners Thread

Hi There,
Although I have not done it myself, I know exactly where the drain line runs and it should be quite easy to accomplish. You will need to pull the fridge out to access in behind it. The sink drain runs behind the fridge and down into the floor then through the small access hatch at the base of the stairs. Once behind the fridge, you will be able to see exactly where to drill the hole for the through hull fitting. With a few "measure twice "X4" before drilling, you should be good.

And after thinking about your post, I am wondering why I haven't done the same thing the past couple years when I have had the fridge out?!?!?!. I literally just re-installed it last week after the flooring was done.

Good luck.


Thank you. Great info.
Yep I had mine out too and thought about it and then spaced to really look into what needed to be done.

I feel having it go through the sump makes for some unnecessary gunk to get hung up.
 
Have any of you 460 owners rerouted the galley sink drain to drain port side and into the water rather then go through the sump?

If so was it pretty straight forward to do?
What seems to be the issue with the sink draining into the sump?
 
Have any of you 460 owners rerouted the galley sink drain to drain port side and into the water rather then go through the sump?

If so was it pretty straight forward to do?
Ours had this done by the PO. i will be out to visit her this weekend and will upload pictures. I believe they ran a new line from sink strainer directly to a new though hull connection
 
While I like the look of a clean hull without any thru hull fittings, I must say this is a good idea. I don't know about you guys, but our catch basin is a little deeper on the one end. It always has water in there, even though it isn't that much. If you leave the boat and come back after a few days and she is all closed up, the cabin doesn't smell nasty, but you can get a whiff of stagnant water that comes back up through the galley sink. I know this all too well, as I have been told more than once by the boss, to "come here and smell this". She won't use bleach, but I find her throwing a dash of Mr. Clean down the drain before we leave the boat.
 
Sea Ray in their wisdom kept thru hulls to a minimum on the 460 and it's probably a good idea especially when you consider the construction lay-up of the hulls. 2001 mid-year and older had a balsa core in the sides which has to be respected. If installing any thru-hull just follow proper procedures and drill an over-sized hole then epoxy it. Then re-drill and seal the fitting.
I know what everyone is saying about water remaining in the low part of the sump but if you keep it really clean, it's not a problem. I scrub the sump chamber with cleanser and a brush about every three months plus I usually run a bit of Mr. Clean liquid through a sink prior to leaving for the weekend. We've never had a problem following that schedule. Installing a light in the area helps to make the job easier. Also having S.S. wing nuts on the sump cover allows for quick access. Personally I'd rather not drill a hole, but that's my preference.
 
Sea Ray in their wisdom kept thru hulls to a minimum on the 460 and it's probably a good idea especially when you consider the construction lay-up of the hulls. 2001 mid-year and older had a balsa core in the sides which has to be respected. If installing any thru-hull just follow proper procedures and drill an over-sized hole then epoxy it. Then re-drill and seal the fitting.
I know what everyone is saying about water remaining in the low part of the sump but if you keep it really clean, it's not a problem. I scrub the sump chamber with cleanser and a brush about every three months plus I usually run a bit of Mr. Clean liquid through a sink prior to leaving for the weekend. We've never had a problem following that schedule. Installing a light in the area helps to make the job easier. Also having S.S. wing nuts on the sump cover allows for quick access. Personally I'd rather not drill a hole, but that's my preference.
I won't drill a hole, I just find it a good idea when I'm laying there cleaning out the sump container :mad:
 
My wishes are many but among them are hoping that all who wish to purchase a new-to-them SR will have the experience that I did buying from Mike. The more time spent on this boat and the more time I study the upgrades and continual maintenance he performed, the more I appreciate it. He has been very helpful teaching me the systems as well. Mike and Griselda are welcome anytime on our boat. (I'm betting he is boat shopping within a year..).
Mike, So happy that you found some very nice new owners for your 460. Welcome on board Capt. Bob!
 
Sea Ray in their wisdom kept thru hulls to a minimum on the 460 and it's probably a good idea especially when you consider the construction lay-up of the hulls. 2001 mid-year and older had a balsa core in the sides which has to be respected. If installing any thru-hull just follow proper procedures and drill an over-sized hole then epoxy it. Then re-drill and seal the fitting.
I know what everyone is saying about water remaining in the low part of the sump but if you keep it really clean, it's not a problem. I scrub the sump chamber with cleanser and a brush about every three months plus I usually run a bit of Mr. Clean liquid through a sink prior to leaving for the weekend. We've never had a problem following that schedule. Installing a light in the area helps to make the job easier. Also having S.S. wing nuts on the sump cover allows for quick access. Personally I'd rather not drill a hole, but that's my preference.

Good advice!

PS: Flying at 40,000' on our way to Maui! The SNOWMAGEDDON in Michigan took its toll on us...we're outta there!!!!
See you soon!
 
Sea Ray in their wisdom kept thru hulls to a minimum on the 460 and it's probably a good idea especially when you consider the construction lay-up of the hulls. 2001 mid-year and older had a balsa core in the sides which has to be respected. If installing any thru-hull just follow proper procedures and drill an over-sized hole then epoxy it. Then re-drill and seal the fitting.
I know what everyone is saying about water remaining in the low part of the sump but if you keep it really clean, it's not a problem. I scrub the sump chamber with cleanser and a brush about every three months plus I usually run a bit of Mr. Clean liquid through a sink prior to leaving for the weekend. We've never had a problem following that schedule. Installing a light in the area helps to make the job easier. Also having S.S. wing nuts on the sump cover allows for quick access. Personally I'd rather not drill a hole, but that's my preference.
Which kind of Mr clean?
 
With all the super bright LED out there. Has anyone swapped out the bow spot light. Do they make a replacement bulb that could use the existing light housing. That way you wouldn't have to replace all the wiring, hardware .. etc.
 
I looked into this once. You will need the new unit plus the master controller. The wiring harness and pad controller at the helm are the same.
 
Hey guys,
The wet bar sink faucet is dripping and I was curious what has been the fix for others who have
had this problem. I this a DIY washer fix or do I need to order a new faucet,

Thanks so much for all your knowledge
 
Great looking floor. I really like the way you handled the hatches. I have a couple of questions for you:
  1. Did you glue down the Luan or fasten it some how, or is it floating?
  2. What kind of business is your friend that did the CNC work in? I'm trying to figure out who I could go to around here and get something similar mad.
Thanks for all of the great posts.
 
Hey guys,
The wet bar sink faucet is dripping and I was curious what has been the fix for others who have
had this problem. I this a DIY washer fix or do I need to order a new faucet,

Thanks so much for all your knowledge
I'm not sure how to describe this but if you look at the side of the faucet that is on the outboard side, it has a slot in it and you can tighten it up. Mine started to leak and this fixed it.
 
Great looking floor. I really like the way you handled the hatches. I have a couple of questions for you:
  1. Did you glue down the Luan or fasten it some how, or is it floating?
  2. What kind of business is your friend that did the CNC work in? I'm trying to figure out who I could go to around here and get something similar mad.
Thanks for all of the great posts.

Thank you!
1. Both glue and stapled. I need to use a filler in some areas to make sure it was level. I used liquid nail around the hatches to make sure it was secure...some filler between hatches as the fiberglass has some low spots to it and I didn't want the new floor to "float over such large dips so to speak.
2. He owns a company by the name of Pro Image...he makes signs, labels, logos, canopy's you name it he does it. His information is in an earlier post.
 
I saw a 460 for sale on YouTube where the owner took the chair and couch out of the aft cabin and replaced it with a bed with storage underneath. Has anyone else done this? I thought it looked good and would be more comfortable than the fold down. Does anyone really use the seating? I went 2 seasons unable to even fold the couch back up (broken controller) and no one noticed!
 
I saw a 460 for sale on YouTube where the owner took the chair and couch out of the aft cabin and replaced it with a bed with storage underneath. Has anyone else done this? I thought it looked good and would be more comfortable than the fold down. Does anyone really use the seating? I went 2 seasons unable to even fold the couch back up (broken controller) and no one noticed!

Go back to post #1596. It was talked about.

I too would like to do this however with the boat four hours away I haven't wanted to start the process.
For my type of boating this would be ideal but for others they like to use it as a day cabin.
 
Has anyone had any success replacing a small portion of the vinyl rub rail?
I have 2 small sections that have "rubs" on them, they've been there since I've had the boat and it bugs me every time I see it.
I talked with the Sea Ray factory this morning and got the part number.
Supplied by Taco V21-9681WHC20D but it not a profile that is currently produced by them
 

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