48 DA Owners Club

Has anyone needed to replace their VHF wire and mic or update theirs and still have the original? Mine was missing at the survey and I was hoping I'd eventually find it on board but no luck... I'm hoping the ones I've found online are plug and play. I figured I'd check here first.
 
We had it made at a local Sheetmetal shop. Let me guess, its dented from it hitting the aft cabin door? Has anyone came up with a fix for this?
I considered replacing my panel because of this issue but realized it's just going to happen again...and probably the same day I replace it if I can't find a fix. I decided to leave it as-is because it's just going to piss me off when I replace it and it dents again. Any suggestions?
 
Bob, I just finished the 4th season on my 48DA. This has been a solid boat all around from build quality, Cummins motors, accommodations, etc. Outside general maintenance items my only issue was the rudder. The supporting hardware attached to the stringers came loose and caused water seepage from packing glands. Took some time to work out because it would only leak when making a hard turn on plane. Other than that issue some items to watch for in the 48DA:

1. Head Hoses corrode and become porous and don't hold vacuum, not easy to change. Completed on my boat.
2. Transmission Coupler failure has been documented on the QSC motors. This is a rubber puck which connects the engine crankshaft to the transmission. I don't have the issue on mine however I closely monitor.
3. Cummins Motors common issues - Turbo wastegate leakage, crank shaft seal leaks, fuel cooler failure. Also many owners defer the proper servicing of the after coolers and coolant systems, request records.
4. Not the easiest Engine room to work in.

V-Drive set up is all I know on this boat. 40 GPH will allow 2250 RPM and net you 23 knots all day long. I have been in 6-7 foot seas and she handled it no problem. Handling around the docks is very easy and you will only find with a thruster.

They started making this model with Zeus drives in 2009. I have not heard great things from my local Cummins service company on generation 1 version. 2009 and newer will get you a more modern interior and soft goods package. I think the sweet spot in this model is regards to price point is 2007-2008. Expect a well maintained vessel to sell around $380k - $430k depending upon options. I don't see these boats depreciating much as they are hard to beat and in demand. After I sold my 420 DA, I was lucky and found my boat local. Made an offer the first day it went on the market and closed in 2 weeks.

Good luck in your search let me know if you have any concerns.
Rocket, Have you ever had to have the Starboard Aftercooler housing pulled? If so, how did they get to it? I would think the exhaust tube needs to be disconnected and moved out of the way somehow. Thanks in advance!
 
I considered replacing my panel because of this issue but realized it's just going to happen again...and probably the same day I replace it if I can't find a fix. I decided to leave it as-is because it's just going to piss me off when I replace it and it dents again. Any suggestions?

We had the same problem, and I screwed a brown chair protector to the side of one of the steps and it just catches the outside edge of the refrigerator door. Here's what it looks like, and I didn't use the swivel part...only the cone shaped one. https://www.homedepot.com/p/SlipSti...-Feet-Furniture-Legs-Set-of-8-CB215/205621637

-Tom
 
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Rocket, Have you ever had to have the Starboard Aftercooler housing pulled? If so, how did they get to it? I would think the exhaust tube needs to be disconnected and moved out of the way somehow. Thanks in advance!

Jeff, My local Cummins Dealer handles the service on the aftercoolers. I know they have to disconnect quite a bit to get back there and they use 2 men to make it easier.
 
Jeff, My local Cummins Dealer handles the service on the aftercoolers. I know they have to disconnect quite a bit to get back there and they use 2 men to make it easier.
Yeah, it's not going to be easy. I need a 110lb mechanic that's about 5' tall....lol
 
Does anyone have any knowledge on how the rudders are installed and sealed on a 2005-2008 48DA? My port side has quite a bit of play and is leaking into the bilge, the marina tech asked if they had packing glands, but I'm thinking it might be a bearing and seal. They come in Types A-Z online. Just curious if anyone has come across this thanks in advance.
Did you ever get this figured out? I believe my port side rudder packing gland is leaking as I can't figure out where else the water that's filling that area is coming from. From what I can tell, all you need to do is loosen the nut, pull it up, remove the old packing and install new packing and tighten it back down. Was there an actual seal or bearing?
 
Did you ever get this figured out? I believe my port side rudder packing gland is leaking as I can't figure out where else the water that's filling that area is coming from. From what I can tell, all you need to do is loosen the nut, pull it up, remove the old packing and install new packing and tighten it back down. Was there an actual seal or bearing?

I had to tighten my starboard side, but that unfortunately wasn't the only place where it was leaking. My fresh water regulator was also cracked. If you do need to replace the packing it's 1/4" Sternlon. You can see the diagram, parts list on pages 112/113 in 2008 Part Manual.

-Tom
 
I had to tighten my starboard side, but that unfortunately wasn't the only place where it was leaking. My fresh water regulator was also cracked. If you do need to replace the packing it's 1/4" Sternlon. You can see the diagram, parts list on pages 112/113 in 2008 Part Manual.

-Tom
Thanks Tom! I was able to figure this all out but I think I'm going to try and find someone to do it. I was down today and trying to figure out how the hell I was going to do this and thought I'll let someone else deal with it. Technically it's not difficult by I thought my God, how the hell am I going to get a wrench down there and get this nut to turn and then clean all the packing out...I did use a selfie stick to get some good pics. If anyone is ever wondering, The packing gland is part number 22199-C ACP. It was stamped on the base.
 
And here's the packing gland
Rudder Packing Gland.jpg
 
Did you ever get this figured out? I believe my port side rudder packing gland is leaking as I can't figure out where else the water that's filling that area is coming from. From what I can tell, all you need to do is loosen the nut, pull it up, remove the old packing and install new packing and tighten it back down. Was there an actual seal or bearing?

Hello Jeff - So this turned out to be a compound problem. The mechanic found that the metal crossbar that secures the rudders in place is bolted to the main stringers on either end. On the port side the bolt had sheared off leaving only the hex head on the top giving the illusion all was ok. He claimed the boat prob came new like that. Bolt replaced and all of the play in the rudder gone. Next the packing gland was tightened slightly (1/4 turn) to stop the water seepage. Lastly, there were leaks on the output side (red hoses) of the hotwater heater, those Seatech fittings that Sea Ray uses are awful, I cut the red hot water lines about 8 inches back and converted them over to the whale 15mm quick connect fittings, no more leaks. The original fittings were dripping into the port rudder area giving the illusion the rudder was leaking worse than it actually was, in fact there's a cavity that runs along the outer side of the engine that filled with water and then made it's way to the bilge. It's all dry now.
 
Anyone have experienced with repairing sliding door to salon?
Scott, assuming your doors is difficult to open? There are blocks sliding inside the rails, not trucks with rollers. Most likely the tracks are dirty. Clean the track thoroughly with paper towels and wet them down to trap the dirt. you will need to open the locker underneath the helm and drop down the Circuit Breaker door. you will see the track continue and clean these as well. Do the same to the top track but you cant access the rail that disappears under the dash. once clean spray with a dry lubricant. I do this annually and don't have any issues.
 
Hello Jeff - So this turned out to be a compound problem. The mechanic found that the metal crossbar that secures the rudders in place is bolted to the main stringers on either end. On the port side the bolt had sheared off leaving only the hex head on the top giving the illusion all was ok. He claimed the boat prob came new like that. Bolt replaced and all of the play in the rudder gone. Next the packing gland was tightened slightly (1/4 turn) to stop the water seepage. Lastly, there were leaks on the output side (red hoses) of the hotwater heater, those Seatech fittings that Sea Ray uses are awful, I cut the red hot water lines about 8 inches back and converted them over to the whale 15mm quick connect fittings, no more leaks. The original fittings were dripping into the port rudder area giving the illusion the rudder was leaking worse than it actually was, in fact there's a cavity that runs along the outer side of the engine that filled with water and then made it's way to the bilge. It's all dry now.

If I remember correctly, I believe I had 7 such misc leaks down in the ER that needed to be repaired when I purchased ours + the dreaded flaking paint under the battery tray and around the bilge pumps. Also, I ended up drilling about a 3/4" hole in that solid bulkhead under the black tank so any water that does accumulate back there can get to the pumps.

-Tom
 
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Hello Jeff - So this turned out to be a compound problem. The mechanic found that the metal crossbar that secures the rudders in place is bolted to the main stringers on either end. On the port side the bolt had sheared off leaving only the hex head on the top giving the illusion all was ok. He claimed the boat prob came new like that. Bolt replaced and all of the play in the rudder gone. Next the packing gland was tightened slightly (1/4 turn) to stop the water seepage. Lastly, there were leaks on the output side (red hoses) of the hotwater heater, those Seatech fittings that Sea Ray uses are awful, I cut the red hot water lines about 8 inches back and converted them over to the whale 15mm quick connect fittings, no more leaks. The original fittings were dripping into the port rudder area giving the illusion the rudder was leaking worse than it actually was, in fact there's a cavity that runs along the outer side of the engine that filled with water and then made it's way to the bilge. It's all dry now.
interesting, it sounds like I have the same issue, minus the rudder crossbar. I also replaced the fittings on the hot water heater as I thought that's where the water may be coming from as they were dripping. I did the same thing, cut them off and replaced them with PEX ends and clamped them down. I also have a little water in that cavity along side the port engine. Did you figure out where that was coming from? Was it all related to the packing gland leaking? I'll tighten down the nut on the packing gland and see if that fixes my leak. I sure hope so. Do you know if it's actually possible to re-pack the gland with the boat still in the water? It seems the way to properly do this is to take the entire crossbar off and disconnect the steering and remove the top nut/packing gland to clean it out and re-pack it. Thanks for any input you can provide!
 
Two years ago I replaced my rudder seals with these. So far zero issues and they say they are good for 10 years.
https://www.tidesmarine.com/rudder/rpbj_overview.php
I'm assuming the steering and cross bar have to be removed to slide these on and remove the top nut/gland??? How are these tightened down? I don't see anything that you would wrench down. Also, do you have the part number of the one you ordered? This looks like a good solution especially if all the stuff needs to be removed anyway just to pack the gland.
 
Ok, I answered a lot of my own questions by reading the installation instructions...lol
 

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