48 DA Owners Club

[ocgrant]

No dimming in the current configuration that I installed since the factory dimmer module was not "LED" compatable. I wasn't worried about dimming since the four colors solve that issue for me personally. The lights are dimmable but require an external "LED" compatable dimmer module to do that. I just used a latching (DPST) toggle switch (on/off) to control switching that I bought at West marine that matched the Sea Ray switch panel and snapped right in place. On / off switches colors quickly.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/bep-marine--contura-switch-one-led-off-on-dpst--17951666?recordNum=1
My plan in the future is to add the POCO controller to many of my lights on the boat.
https://lumiteclighting.com/poco-quick-start/

 

[ocgrant]

Anyone had success with a way to lock the cabin door securely? No offense but this door lacth is a POS. There is so much play in the door assembly that when you lock it with the key and grab the handle and shake it up and down it opens right up... What good is a lock if it does not secure correctly. I like to lock my cabin when I leave my boat and with this one it does me no good. I wish someone made a real locking latch assembly I could install that would not hinder operation of the door assembly or get in the way of the passage.

 

[TNT8808]

That drove me nutty, and once I dug into it I realized the problem was that it wasn't going in deep enough to actually catch properly and lock. I used a piece of aluminum to correct the problem, and after much trial and error and some light grinding on the interior metal door frame as well it locks securely now.

 

[ocgrant]

That drove me nutty, and once I dug into it I realized the problem was that it wasn't going in deep enough to actually catch properly and lock. I used a piece of aluminum to correct the problem, and after much trial and error and some light grinding on the interior metal door frame as well it locks securely now.
View attachment 81347

Interesting....Can you send me some more pictures at some point on that mod.

 

[TNT8808]

Interesting....Can you send me some more pictures at some point on that mod.

Sure, however it could be awhile as we're stored inside and our marina is closed down due to COVID and I don't have any access. Sorry.

 

[ocgrant]

no worries... I am going to mine today and take a closer look at it. After seeing your "support mount" I think I get it. Just finding some aluminum bar stock right now will be challenging.

 

[TNT8808]

no worries... I am going to mine today and take a closer look at it. After seeing your "support mount" I think I get it. Just finding some aluminum bar stock right now will be challenging.

Wish I could help more, but it's just not possible right now. The biggest challenge I had was getting the correct angle on the backside of the aluminum support where it attaches to the fiberglass to make it goes in straight to latch correctly.

 

[Bear Paws]

No dimming in the current configuration that I installed since the factory dimmer module was not "LED" compatable. I wasn't worried about dimming since the four colors solve that issue for me personally. The lights are dimmable but require an external "LED" compatable dimmer module to do that. I just used a latching (DPST) toggle switch (on/off) to control switching that I bought at West marine that matched the Sea Ray switch panel and snapped right in place. On / off switches colors quickly.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/bep-marine--contura-switch-one-led-off-on-dpst--17951666?recordNum=1
My plan in the future is to add the POCO controller to many of my lights on the boat.
https://lumiteclighting.com/poco-quick-start/

Thanks for the info. I like the thought of using the other colors as the dimmed color. My white is so bright that I was concerned but I'll gladly give this a try tomorrow. Any advice you can give for wiring the switch will be helpful.

 

[ocgrant]

Thanks for the info. I like the thought of using the other colors as the dimmed color. My white is so bright that I was concerned but I'll gladly give this a try tomorrow. Any advice you can give for wiring the switch will be helpful.

I am going to work from the boat tomorrow. I will take you some pics and make you a diagram if that helps.

 

[Bear Paws]

I am going to work from the boat tomorrow. I will take you some pics and make you a diagram if that helps.

That would be great. I really appreciate it!

 

[ocgrant]

Thanks for the info. I like the thought of using the other colors as the dimmed color. My white is so bright that I was concerned but I'll gladly give this a try tomorrow. Any advice you can give for wiring the switch will be helpful.

Ok lets give this a try.
1. remove the original switch tape up the orange and white wires but you will use the green wire (ground for switch light)
2. I used 16 gauge wire (2 runs) to do an overlay on the original harness to make it easy (red wire in the picks)
3. remove the old dimer module under the helm all the way to the right (there are 2 of them there, only the one is removed that controls the lights. I assume the other one is for the gauge dimmer)
4. take the red wire that came out of the dimmer and connect that to one of the over lay wires that go to the switch
5. take the light gray wire out of the dimmer (you can follow that wire down to the blue wire that goes up to the lights) and connect that to other over lay wire that connects to the switch.
6. on the switch the green will go to the ground lug, the red wire from the dimmer will go to the (+) on the switch and the gray wire will go to the last connector on the switch.
That should be it and should work perfect.

 

[Bear Paws]

Ok lets give this a try.
1. remove the original switch tape up the orange and white wires but you will use the green wire (ground for switch light)
2. I used 16 gauge wire (2 runs) to do an overlay on the original harness to make it easy (red wire in the picks)
3. remove the old dimer module under the helm all the way to the right (there are 2 of them there, only the one is removed that controls the lights. I assume the other one is for the gauge dimmer)
4. take the red wire that came out of the dimmer and connect that to one of the over lay wires that go to the switch
5. take the light gray wire out of the dimmer (you can follow that wire down to the blue wire that goes up to the lights) and connect that to other over lay wire that connects to the switch.
6. on the switch the green will go to the ground lug, the red wire from the dimmer will go to the (+) on the switch and the gray wire will go to the last connector on the switch.
That should be it and should work perfect.

Well, the effort is appreciated. Similar layout here but the dimmers are different and I tried several different scenarios, all unsuccessfully. Part of my problem may be the switch I got from West Marine because I bought 2 different ones and one had 2 terminals on the back (SPST) and the other had 4 (DPST). I had these prior to your response so I will return these and make another run at it on Friday I hope...

 

[ocgrant]

Well, the effort is appreciated. Similar layout here but the dimmers are different and I tried several different scenarios, all unsuccessfully. Part of my problem may be the switch I got from West Marine because I bought 2 different ones and one had 2 terminals on the back (SPST) and the other had 4 (DPST). I had these prior to your response so I will return these and make another run at it on Friday I hope...

Interesting... post a pic of your dimmer. When you swapped out the lights did you have blue wire at each light? If so you should be able to find that on the panel right at the bottom right of the helm. That’s really the key to everything. I am going to west marine in the morning myself so I will find the switch and send you a pic. Text me if you want and I can just text you the pic from west marine. 949-241-9534

 

[ocgrant]

Jeffery give me the 411 on the sanitation pipe replacement project. Since I am not traveling for the next 4 weeks I might just tackle this.
1. Do you pull the toilets I assume?
2. How many hours you figure this whole thing took?
3. You mentioned the glue at the bulkhead parts was the bitch, any tricks to those?
4. What would you do different if doing it again?

 

[Ottasea2]

Thank you. I used a flat wall mount from Best Buy that allows you tilt the TV forward slightly, and just used 2 lag screws for the mount and then simply set the TV on the mount. If you pop off the panels (they're held on by the famous SR christmas trees) there are several 2" x 4" 's running vertically behind there that I attached it to that made it sturdy. I just marked it out on the cherry panels, and pre-drilled first. Any questions, just let me know.

-Tom

 

[Ottasea2]

Thank you. I used a flat wall mount from Best Buy that allows you tilt the TV forward slightly, and just used 2 lag screws for the mount and then simply set the TV on the mount. If you pop off the panels (they're held on by the famous SR christmas trees) there are several 2" x 4" 's running vertically behind there that I attached it to that made it sturdy. I just marked it out on the cherry panels, and pre-drilled first. Any questions, just let me know.

-Tom

I am installing new stereo and electronics in my 2007 48. Having trouble getting the wires from the hole in the bulkhead under the dash to the TV cabinet. I want to take the panels where your big tv is mounted to off to route wires through. Are you saying they are just clipped on?

 

[TNT8808]

I am installing new stereo and electronics in my 2007 48. Having trouble getting the wires from the hole in the bulkhead under the dash to the TV cabinet. I want to take the panels where your big tv is mounted to off to route wires through. Are you saying they are just clipped on?

Correct. They are held on by "Christmas tree" type fasteners.

-Tom

 

[Ottasea2]

There are plenty of aftermarket options for these, but folks who have replaced - did you have to change hole configuration behind and do you have one that you love?

They are Imtra Montuk Led

 

[ttmott]

Well, the effort is appreciated. Similar layout here but the dimmers are different and I tried several different scenarios, all unsuccessfully. Part of my problem may be the switch I got from West Marine because I bought 2 different ones and one had 2 terminals on the back (SPST) and the other had 4 (DPST). I had these prior to your response so I will return these and make another run at it on Friday I hope...

Take a look at this Blue Sea Systems LED dimmer; I have several of them on my boat which is completely converted to dimmable LED's (including all 12 lamps on the upper deck/helm) and it works just fine. They make a 6 amp, 12 amp and 25 amp dimmer - https://www.bluesea.com/products/7507/Deckhand_Dimmer_-_12V_DC_12A Switching is from momentary switches so you can have as many switches as desired in parallel.

 

[ocgrant]

Take a look at this Blue Sea Systems LED dimmer; I have several of them on my boat which is completely converted to dimmable LED's (including all 12 lamps on the upper deck/helm) and it works just fine. They make a 6 amp, 12 amp and 25 amp dimmer - https://www.bluesea.com/products/7507/Deckhand_Dimmer_-_12V_DC_12A Switching is from momentary switches so you can have as many switches as desired in parallel.

interesting... I wonder if that would allow the Lumitec led to switch colors though? The are not RGB but they require a on/off cycle to switch.