48 DA Owners Club

Thanks for the quick reply Tom!

Anytime Zach. Below is the diagram. You can also knock down the mast light quickly just like you would a VHF antenna.

-Tom
48DA Dims 2018-04-07 at 6.46.10 PM.png
 
Has anyone replaced the TV in the salon? How do you get the TV out of the cabinet?
 
Has anyone replaced the TV in the salon? How do you get the TV out of the cabinet?
You need to remove the four screws in each corner of the black backer board which holds the TV. Lift it out and the TV is bolted from the inside.
 
You need to remove the four screws in each corner of the black backer board which holds the TV. Lift it out and the TV is bolted from the inside.

I agree with CAMELLA. Below is what we replaced ours with. A 40" HDTV with a small sound bar on the bottom, and the subwoofer is under the salon sofa with the vacuum tools. The former TV cabinet is now used as additional storage.
48DA HDTV.JPG
 
Hi New 48 DA Owner here just got a 2002 with the hydraulic swim platform and was wondering with a 12' AB tender on the back is getting to the shore power cord and issue for anyone?
 
How did you mount that TV, looks great.

Thank you. I used a flat wall mount from Best Buy that allows you tilt the TV forward slightly, and just used 2 lag screws for the mount and then simply set the TV on the mount. If you pop off the panels (they're held on by the famous SR christmas trees) there are several 2" x 4" 's running vertically behind there that I attached it to that made it sturdy. I just marked it out on the cherry panels, and pre-drilled first. Any questions, just let me know.

-Tom
 
Thank you. I used a flat wall mount from Best Buy that allows you tilt the TV forward slightly, and just used 2 lag screws for the mount and then simply set the TV on the mount. If you pop off the panels (they're held on by the famous SR christmas trees) there are several 2" x 4" 's running vertically behind there that I attached it to that made it sturdy. I just marked it out on the cherry panels, and pre-drilled first. Any questions, just let me know.

-Tom
Thank you for the reply Tom.
 
Anode Question, since it's that time of year!
For 48DA's with V-drives:

This is what I've got so far:

Qty. 1 - 406 Transom Mount Anode (5" between holes)
Qty. 2 - Trim Tab Anode R-3HA - 4" diameter (increasing from last years R-3A 3 3/4 dia since they were toast when hauled out)
Qty. 4 - Teardrop T-20a (Hydraulic Swim Platform)
Qty. 2 - X-9 2" shaft anodes
Bow Thruster - ??? Can't find one yet, anyone out there have any advice? My joystick says vetus, but no other clues to work off of.

This year I've decided to give up the zinc and go with all aluminum anodes, I'm 100% saltwater use and from everything I see online they are better. Anyone out there confirm this? Supposedly when the zinc turns white on the outside, they stop working, my transom anode was all white and in pretty good shape at time of hauling, which concerns me.

https://www.cruisingworld.com/how/zinc-and-aluminum-sacrificial-anodes
 
Anode Question, since it's that time of year!
For 48DA's with V-drives:

This is what I've got so far:

Qty. 1 - 406 Transom Mount Anode (5" between holes)
Qty. 2 - Trim Tab Anode R-3HA - 4" diameter (increasing from last years R-3A 3 3/4 dia since they were toast when hauled out)
Qty. 4 - Teardrop T-20a (Hydraulic Swim Platform)
Qty. 2 - X-9 2" shaft anodes
Bow Thruster - ??? Can't find one yet, anyone out there have any advice? My joystick says vetus, but no other clues to work off of.

This year I've decided to give up the zinc and go with all aluminum anodes, I'm 100% saltwater use and from everything I see online they are better. Anyone out there confirm this? Supposedly when the zinc turns white on the outside, they stop working, my transom anode was all white and in pretty good shape at time of hauling, which concerns me.

https://www.cruisingworld.com/how/zinc-and-aluminum-sacrificial-anodes

The bow thruster zinc is BP1185.
Sea Ray does not recommend installing shaft anodes, if they come loose they will slide down the shaft and cause damage. Don't forget about the engine zincs.
 
Thanks for the reply, just as an update, the BP1185 bow thruster anode was spot on, I was able to get it in aluminum too. You have to remove the bow thruster prop to install, it's just 2 phillips screws and the anode lives behind there. It's amazing how much growth was on the motor housing, and how bad of a job the marina had done at cleaning it.

In regards to the shafts, struts and props - how are they protected without anodes? I don't see a grounding mechanism for them in the engine room. I can see the rudders are grounded in the engine room. The boat had shaft anodes on it when I purchased it. Just want to make sure I'm protected.

Engine and generator pencil zincs also replaced too, thanks for the reminder.
 
Thanks for sharing the info on the thruster anode, I never knew it was behind the prop.
I keep shaft anodes installed on mine.

Thanks,
JB
 
V-Drive owners, Is anyone else having any issues with the load % differences? Just had the boat splashed this past weekend, at 2300 RPM's I was 23.5 knots, port engine 19.8gph, 69% load, stbd engine 17.5gph, 57% load. I was able to turn 2675 RPM WOT both engines at about 29 knots. The port engine load and fuel burn is significantly higher at all RPM's. ALL filters have just been replaced, etc. Fresh aftercooler service, WTF?! I'm def using more fuel on port side tank too, so I know it can't just be a sensor.

I found 2 other threads online where others have had the same issue, apparently Sea Ray may have made the port prop 1/2 degree less pitch to compensate for this 'anomaly' of port side v-drive that must turn 'backwards' in theory thus working harder? When owners send their props out to be serviced, like I just did, they come back matching, thus creating the issue?

Can anyone relate or share their knowledge?
 
V-Drive owners, Is anyone else having any issues with the load % differences? Just had the boat splashed this past weekend, at 2300 RPM's I was 23.5 knots, port engine 19.8gph, 69% load, stbd engine 17.5gph, 57% load. I was able to turn 2675 RPM WOT both engines at about 29 knots. The port engine load and fuel burn is significantly higher at all RPM's. ALL filters have just been replaced, etc. Fresh aftercooler service, WTF?! I'm def using more fuel on port side tank too, so I know it can't just be a sensor.

I found 2 other threads online where others have had the same issue, apparently Sea Ray may have made the port prop 1/2 degree less pitch to compensate for this 'anomaly' of port side v-drive that must turn 'backwards' in theory thus working harder? When owners send their props out to be serviced, like I just did, they come back matching, thus creating the issue?

Can anyone relate or share their knowledge?

This is exactly what happened to me. I went over the engines as best as I could and ended up just taking the extra 1/2" out of the prop showing the higher load.

Paul
 
Thank you for your input Paul, I had a feeling I was on to something. I found another thread where you can email sea ray customer service and request the original spec sheet and sea trial report from when the boat was sea trialed by the factory before going to the dealer. Waiting on reply from sea ray now.
 
V-Drive owners, Is anyone else having any issues with the load % differences? Just had the boat splashed this past weekend, at 2300 RPM's I was 23.5 knots, port engine 19.8gph, 69% load, stbd engine 17.5gph, 57% load. I was able to turn 2675 RPM WOT both engines at about 29 knots. The port engine load and fuel burn is significantly higher at all RPM's. ALL filters have just been replaced, etc. Fresh aftercooler service, WTF?! I'm def using more fuel on port side tank too, so I know it can't just be a sensor.

I found 2 other threads online where others have had the same issue, apparently Sea Ray may have made the port prop 1/2 degree less pitch to compensate for this 'anomaly' of port side v-drive that must turn 'backwards' in theory thus working harder? When owners send their props out to be serviced, like I just did, they come back matching, thus creating the issue?

Can anyone relate or share their knowledge?

I had mine PropScanned and tuned this winter. My props were tuned to factory spec of 24x29, and they fixed some type of "burning" that is caused by cavitation that creates pitting at the root of the blades on the hub that they said seems common on these 48DA's. This spring both Port and Starboard are within .1 gph of each other at 600 RPM, 2100 RPM, and 2675 RPM.

-Tom
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
113,164
Messages
1,427,646
Members
61,074
Latest member
Corders2
Back
Top