You might want to take a look at that joint just above the window (if same as my 52). If the caulking in that joint fails then water will enter there and look as if it is a window leak.
The Brown with red stripe is the positive from the circuit breaker and that wire connects to one leg of the float switch.The pump and float are working, but the monitor up on the bridge helm says the forward bilge is faulty, which would lead me to believe I have a wire backwards. The switch on the bridge stays lit up at all times. I played around with different wire combinations on the pump and float and just not found the right combination yet. Hoping to get fixed when I head back down to the boat in a few weeks. Right now the pump does run the correct way and pumps out when the float is triggered.
Also, climbing in and out of the engine room to reset the breaker each time was a pain. The Admiral will be there the next time so life will get easier when I tackle it again....even though she says working on a bilge is beneath an Admiral's pay grade
Keith
Thanks Tom. I will save this info as well.
Just for future reference if it helps anyone, Pan on salon A/C had a rusted area in the pan that allowed condensate into the catch basin it sits in, which also has a secondary drain. The secondary drain had a slow drip into the port by the tank, which will eventually go to the of the engine compartment, and into the forward bilge in the engine compartment. Had a pan made slightly bigger than the existing pan rather than trying to remount the A/C unit, set it inside it, resealed secondary catch basin drain, problem solved. It's the original salon A/C that will be replaced as soon as some other work is completed.
Did you end up upgrading your salon flooring?
Can't help you with that Matt. But wanted to contribute that my tridata uses two transducers. One on the starboard side of the keel for depth. And another on the port side for speed and temp. But you probably know that. The speed/depth one has never worked in the 6 years I have had the boat.
Why not use the brass?
I just had all of mine changed due to a lightning strike. One was an original NMEA 0183 depth (P19 series) and the other was a P79 in-hull that interfaced with the Raymarine DSM300 sounder. As all of the nav equipment was being changed to Garmin we went with a single Garmin GT23-TH which offered many features the system could take advantage of like CHIRP Clearvu. I looked at the Garmin Panoptix but boat speed was essentially limited to 5 knots for these transducers to work; so these were out. We had to patch where the original P series was and locate a suitable spot on the hull for the GT23. Ended up the only location that would work was under the port engine. Here are a couple of pics.
