480 DB Owners Club

DC converter.PNG
steve4566 said:
Do you have the CAT EMS instrument system? If so, they are powered by two 12 volt DC to 24 volt DC converters under the stbd side of the helm. One powers the stbd CAT EMS and instruments and the other powers the port CAT EMS and instruments. Check their input and output voltages. My port converter also failed and I found this aftermarket replacement at a lower price than the OEM converter: Analytic Systems VTC120MS-12-24. I chose their option to build the converter to military specs for the marine environment and it has been working fine now for five years.
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Steve,

I went down to the boat and found (what I think) are the converters. Are they the ones about the size of paperback book, only about half as thick as a paperback? How in the world did you get to them? Mine are mounted on the inner helm wall behind the AC unit. I could see them through the small hatch under the helm. I could not reach them with my voltmeter probes to test them, thus I couldn't take a reading. Did you pull the switch panel or radar screen to access them? There might be room for me to get one arm with a screw gun in there to take the screws out and pull the converters closer to the hatch opening, but not sure. I did not have the tools with me to try that. There was no way I was getting both arms in there at the same time through the small hatch opening.

I left well enough alone for right now. It was 28 degrees and the fingers were getting cold. I will look at it again on a warmer day.

Keith
DC converter.PNG
 
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The crime scene said:
View attachment 97397

Steve,

I went down to the boat and found (what I think) are the converters. Are they the ones about the size of paperback book, only about half as thick as a paperback? How in the world did you get to them? Mine are mounted on the inner helm wall behind the AC unit. I could see them through the small hatch under the helm. I could not reach them with my voltmeter probes to test them, thus I couldn't take a reading. Did you pull the switch panel or radar screen to access them? There might be room for me to get one arm with a screw gun in there to take the screws out and pull the converters closer to the hatch opening, but not sure. I did not have the tools with me to try that. There was no way I was getting both arms in there at the same time through the small hatch opening.

I left well enough alone for right now. It was 28 degrees and the fingers were getting cold. I will look at it again on a warmer day.

Keith
View attachment 97397
Click to expand...

That is the converters, and I just had to replace my second one this year. Replaced the other a couple of years ago. They are step-up converters moving voltage from 12 to 24 volts. I purchased from amazon for $19 total.
DROK 090183 Waterproof DC Synchronous Boost Converter Regulator DC-DC 9-20V 12V to 24V 5A/120W Step-up Power Supply Circuit Module Adapter with Aluminum Shell for Electric Motor

Good luck
 
The crime scene said:
View attachment 97397

Steve,

I went down to the boat and found (what I think) are the converters. Are they the ones about the size of paperback book, only about half as thick as a paperback? How in the world did you get to them? Mine are mounted on the inner helm wall behind the AC unit. I could see them through the small hatch under the helm. I could not reach them with my voltmeter probes to test them, thus I couldn't take a reading. Did you pull the switch panel or radar screen to access them? There might be room for me to get one arm with a screw gun in there to take the screws out and pull the converters closer to the hatch opening, but not sure. I did not have the tools with me to try that. There was no way I was getting both arms in there at the same time through the small hatch opening.

I left well enough alone for right now. It was 28 degrees and the fingers were getting cold. I will look at it again on a warmer day.

Keith
View attachment 97397
Click to expand...


Yes, that's one in your photo. Mine are mounted in the same place and I have bridge A/C as you do so I was only able to get one arm in there. I used alligator clips to take the voltage readings. I unscrewed the wire lugs one handed. I just left the old converter in place because there was no way I was going to be able to mount the new converter in the same location as the old one. I mounted the new converter on the divider on the port side of the compartment under the helm wheel.
 
dcpringle said:
That is the converters, and I just had to replace my second one this year. Replaced the other a couple of years ago. They are step-up converters moving voltage from 12 to 24 volts. I purchased from amazon for $19 total.
DROK 090183 Waterproof DC Synchronous Boost Converter Regulator DC-DC 9-20V 12V to 24V 5A/120W Step-up Power Supply Circuit Module Adapter with Aluminum Shell for Electric Motor

Good luck
Click to expand...
I paid over $500 in 2016 for a replacement converter I installed and thought it was a great deal because it was still a couple hundred dollars cheaper than the OEM converter....... :mad::confused::eek:o_O
 
steve4566 said:
Yes, that's one in your photo. Mine are mounted in the same place and I have bridge A/C as you do so I was only able to get one arm in there. I used alligator clips to take the voltage readings. I unscrewed the wire lugs one handed. I just left the old converter in place because there was no way I was going to be able to mount the new converter in the same location as the old one. I mounted the new converter on the divider on the port side of the compartment under the helm wheel.
Click to expand...

That is what I figured I would have to do also. There is plenty of room to mount them in a more accessible spot. I will probably order the converter today.

Keith
 
The crime scene said:
That is what I figured I would have to do also. There is plenty of room to mount them in a more accessible spot. I will probably order the converter today.

Keith
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Keith, check out DCPRINGLE's post above. He used an amazingly inexpensive alternative. There must be a reason his alternative costs virtually nothing compared to the OEM converter, but if it worked for him...
 
Quick question for anyone that added the Vitrifrigo drawers, what DC breaker(s) did you have to add? 2 qty 15amp? Thanks!
 
WDR said:
The pic above is the lid I am looking for, with zero luck so far. It covers the Port and STBD cranking batteries.
Click to expand...
I may have the lid you are looking for from my 450EB. Send me a PM and we can talk about getting it to you.

Lith7.jpg
 
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steve4566 said:
Keith, check out DCPRINGLE's post above. He used an amazingly inexpensive alternative. There must be a reason his alternative costs virtually nothing compared to the OEM converter, but if it worked for him...
Click to expand...

The convertors are just step up converters, meant to stabilize and in this case boost the voltage from 12 to 24volts. You'll want to be sure you have something that will take a range of voltage, in this case 8-20v and put it out at a constant 24v. Reason for the range, is that your battery voltage maybe be anywhere from 9-14v depending on the alternator etc.. Hope this helps.. BTW I have a Monitor on my bridge for watching TV all of the satellite, It requires a constant 12v, so i used one which goes from 12 variable to 12v constant for it too..
 
Guys, I really don't have much in the way of engine instrumentation up at the helm. I've got the analog style gauges and a little bit from Smartcraft. But it seems like I have no data like boost pressure, raw water pressure or anything else. My helm / dash is not factory so I'm wondering if some things have been deleted. What engine metrics do you fellow Cummins operators have? (I'll probably add EGT, I don't think that was ever offered through any factory option.)
50902091708_1b26a75edc_c.jpg
 
Made it down to the boat this weekend and pulled the salon carpet out. It is on my list to replace this spring. My plan right now is to use the old carpet as a pattern for the new one and have the edges bound so that I can easily remove it and have it cleaned when needed. I admit, my carpet knowledge is shallow when it comes to quality of carpets. I know I want a nice high end carpet with a rubber backing, which is what the original carpet had.....or is there any other flooring options that ended up nice for a 480? I do not want to put a laminate down in case I would have to open up the hatches for engine access.

Keith
 
The crime scene said:
Made it down to the boat this weekend and pulled the salon carpet out. It is on my list to replace this spring. My plan right now is to use the old carpet as a pattern for the new one and have the edges bound so that I can easily remove it and have it cleaned when needed. I admit, my carpet knowledge is shallow when it comes to quality of carpets. I know I want a nice high end carpet with a rubber backing, which is what the original carpet had.....or is there any other flooring options that ended up nice for a 480? I do not want to put a laminate down in case I would have to open up the hatches for engine access.

Keith
Click to expand...
Keith,
Corinthian Marine has the templates for the 480DB and have both carpet and their vinyl flooring available. I’m not sure about salon flooring. I just ordered their AquaMat in Solar Tan to replace the exterior carpet on my boat. I have read a bunch of wonderful reviews about their vinyl flooring over traditional carpet. If you want to go with the "teak look" their template has the teak lines in place. Here are a couple of links to their website for you.
480DB Template: https://corinthianmarine.com/find-y...MIl8_m5b7-7gIVBRDnCh0TqQ3PEAAYASACEgKEm_D_BwE

Various styles (vinyl and carpet): https://corinthianmarine.com/aquamat/

Binding options and snaps or velcro: https://corinthianmarine.com/aquamat-options/

And finally, remember Club Sea Ray members receive a 15% discount.

Jim
 
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So, still working on rainwater leaks. Before I tackle the windshield I thought I would caulk all the obvious places that the caulking was lacking, so here is what I'm currently doing:
50973150271_3569775b47_o.jpg

The top red arrow is obvious that it needs replacing (as well as the bottom arrow, but there is a question, below).

The bottom of the two ancient caulk lines up close:
50973150261_5eb4f2d5fc_o.jpg

Yeah, so I need to scrape that out and replace it. Seems to be actual caulk or putty (not silicone), because it is messy under the crust.

BUT HERE IS THE ACTUAL QUESTION: Should that caulk extend all the way around the the boat above the windshield? I don't see any evidence of antique caulking. (The lower area between the two fiberglass panels.)
50973254927_e20b37677e_o.jpg

Please don't judge the dirtiness, I moor under a very active flight path. NAS Oceana
 
Dave,

My larger, lower joint is ready to be redone as well. Mine is black, and @Capt. Rusty Higgins suggested I use Sikaflex 284 or 2xx something. I have a tube of it on the boat. I'm going to pry it all out, tape it off both sides, and recaulk, smooth it out as needed, and remove the tape before the caulk sets.
 
The crime scene said:
Made it down to the boat this weekend and pulled the salon carpet out. It is on my list to replace this spring. My plan right now is to use the old carpet as a pattern for the new one and have the edges bound so that I can easily remove it and have it cleaned when needed. I admit, my carpet knowledge is shallow when it comes to quality of carpets. I know I want a nice high end carpet with a rubber backing, which is what the original carpet had.....or is there any other flooring options that ended up nice for a 480? I do not want to put a laminate down in case I would have to open up the hatches for engine access.

Keith
Click to expand...

I'm in the process of replacing my salon flooring now. Installing Amtico under the dinette and in the galley from the steps back to the edge of the engine hatches. The rest will be Mohawk AirO felt backed carpet which is very plush and the felt pad is thick so no extra padding needed. It's also easy to cut and doesn't need to be bound. I will probably need to put some carpet tape down though as the felt is slippery on the finished gelcoat floor.
 
SeadawgVB said:
So, still working on rainwater leaks. Before I tackle the windshield I thought I would caulk all the obvious places that the caulking was lacking, so here is what I'm currently doing:
50973150271_3569775b47_o.jpg

The top red arrow is obvious that it needs replacing (as well as the bottom arrow, but there is a question, below).

The bottom of the two ancient caulk lines up close:
50973150261_5eb4f2d5fc_o.jpg

Yeah, so I need to scrape that out and replace it. Seems to be actual caulk or putty (not silicone), because it is messy under the crust.

BUT HERE IS THE ACTUAL QUESTION: Should that caulk extend all the way around the the boat above the windshield? I don't see any evidence of antique caulking. (The lower area between the two fiberglass panels.)
50973254927_e20b37677e_o.jpg

Please don't judge the dirtiness, I moor under a very active flight path. NAS Oceana
Click to expand...

I removed, disassembled, replaced gasketing and rebedded my entire windscreen a few years ago and also replaced all of the caulk lines you are working on. I still get water in the bridge from washing and heavy rains...
 
Has anyone changed a prop on a 48 sedan bridge. Do I need a puller or can it be knocked off? I plan to do it while in the water.
 
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