480 DB Owners Club

[ttmott]

I finally got around to installing the Vitrifrigo fridge and freezer set on the boat this weekend. I had removed the old set a couple weeks ago and was able to line up some friends for the install.

I will upload pics. The old cabinet doors will not be reused. The tray for the sink cover will not be used either since it would have taken a lot of millwork to make the accessible.

The first thing I did was paint some boards black prior to going to the boat, which is two hours south of me. The inside of the cabinets are black so I wanted a match. I have an enclosed trailer and loaded it up with saws, tools, wood, cords, more tools, saw horses for a work bench, and the new appliances. It worked well for a “shop” at the lake.

It’s tough to explain the process so I’ll be as brief as I can. The center support board needs to stay or the counter will sag. The freezer/fridge combo needs to go in first and on the right side of the set. There is an access panel to the engine room behind the right side unit that will allow the drain line to be routed to the bilge. You will have to get behind the unit to silicone the newly drilled hole for the drain line after sliding it in place or you will get engine fumes in the cabin.

For he frame that needs built for the set: I added (screwed) a 1x2 on both the right, left, and top of the existing cabinet…boxing it in for the trim piece to screw too. The pieces lined up with the front edge of the center support. The right and left sides were screwed flat against the support piece and inside of the cabinet. The top piece was screwed with the wide part showing instead of flat. A test fit was very tight so I removed the left 1x2 and planed it down a little, which worked perfect. The unit slid right in but sat low. I added an inch of wood under the unit and it sat at the right height I wanted. The units do not have adjustable feet so a platform needs to be built.

The second unit was more of the same. I also had to plane down the newly built frame to make that unit fit. View attachment 126256 View attachment 126257 View attachment 126258 View attachment 126259 View attachment 126260 View attachment 126261

It took three of us about five hours. I could do it again in two or three after figuring the process out. I love the stainless look and super happy with the results. If you are going to do this swap, feel free to call me and I can try to be more descriptive.

Keith

Nice! I'm doing the exact same thing on my 52DB but with the DRW180 all-in-one units. There isn't physically enough space between the cabinets for the two units and their trim on my boat. I have cut the outside stainless trim off and will butt the units right to the cabinets and between the two units the stainless flanges must overlap (I do not have enough width for that wide center post).
Question - did you build up the floor? I noticed the bottom drawers open close to the floor which would prevent placing a rug on the floor. I have cut a 1/2 inch thick piece of plywood to raise them up but am not sure if they will fit now. Back to the boat today to find out.
Another thing about the DRW180 model is the air circulation for the condensers are from the sides of the units so to ensure proper air flow I have to cut some holes into the adjoining cabinets / structures. Not a big deal but needs to be done.
Tom

 

[LattitudeAdjustment]

I have alarms both at the helm and in the solon. Alarms are part of the NMEA 2000 network. Anything that changes state in the system and you would like to know about can be alarmed; things like bilge pumps, generator shutting down, anchor drag, low oil pressure, high coolant temperature, low or high tank levels, etc. But, you are right the Maretron equipment (even their alarms) is a bit on the pricey side however, the multi-uses are extensive which offsets the expense. Here is the NMEA system on my boat; you can see the Maretron ALM100 alarms -
View attachment 126270

Thank you for taking the time to put together an excellent response to my request for assistance. Your schematic is exactly what I had in my mind for the past few months now and it makes me feel good knowing that my ideas are actually in production and working for someone, not just an idea in my head.

I have a lot of the same hardware including the Fusion gear (including 3 remotes), a Garmin 8612 and 8612XSV with an open array and side-scan transducer pair. My wife is going to begin to dislike you (TTMOTT), in a good way (LOL) as once an idea is in my mind, there is no stopping me... especially if it lends itself to improving safety.

She watches the $$$$ going out like a hawk. We will once again be spending a good chunk of change on something that brings joy and comfort (in safety) to myself but maybe not to her. However, I am Blessed that she takes a very active role as a co-captain and has above average knowledge on the 480 and boating in general. She is going to get her captains license in the next month or so and I am proud of the knowledge she currently has.

As a pilot, I can never have enough data and redundancy available to me and that is a big part of what I am aiming for with the system you described above. More situational awareness and the ability to monitor and store data so I can view the data for trends of a particular area or part that might indicate an upcoming failure.

Sorry this took a long winded departure from my original question, but once you (TTMOTT) posted that schematic, you got my mind spinning up a frenzy of ideas and recent thoughts.

Thank you again for your time and sharing this great information. I hope others find this useful as well. We log close to 200 hours a year on Lattitude Adjustment so I go out of my way to get as much right as I possibly can before something goes wrong.

Best regards,
Vince

 

[The crime scene]

Nice! I'm doing the exact same thing on my 52DB but with the DRW180 all-in-one units. There isn't physically enough space between the cabinets for the two units and their trim on my boat. I have cut the outside stainless trim off and will butt the units right to the cabinets and between the two units the stainless flanges must overlap (I do not have enough width for that wide center post).
Question - did you build up the floor? I noticed the bottom drawers open close to the floor which would prevent placing a rug on the floor. I have cut a 1/2 inch thick piece of plywood to raise them up but am not sure if they will fit now. Back to the boat today to find out.
Another thing about the DRW180 model is the air circulation for the condensers are from the sides of the units so to ensure proper air flow I have to cut some holes into the adjoining cabinets / structures. Not a big deal but needs to be done.
Tom

I did make runners for the unit’s rubber legs to sit on(see picture). The runners are made of 1/4 inch slats with a 3/4 inch board for an inch lift. I left the center open for air flow.

With the inch gap below the unit and approximately 1 1/2 inch gap on the top gives about as much airflow as possible. There is about ten inches between the outer wall and the units as well. I could have set the units deeper but that would have required removal of the center support piece and cutting it down. The center support has a lot of electrical running through a hole in the back of it, which would have been a lot of additional work.

Good luck on your install.

Keith

 

[ttmott]

I did make runners for the unit’s rubber legs to sit on(see picture). The runners are made of 1/4 inch slats with a 3/4 inch board for an inch lift. I left the center open for air flow.

With the inch gap below the unit and approximately 1 1/2 inch gap on the top gives about as much airflow as possible. There is about ten inches between the outer wall and the units as well. I could have set the units deeper but that would have required removal of the center support piece and cutting it down. The center support has a lot of electrical running through a hole in the back of it, which would have been a lot of additional work.

Good luck on your install.

Keith

Thanks Keith - Looking good! I've got the units sitting in the opening and made the center posts last night. I like the idea of the gap underneath but I'm already too far past that. There is about a foot behind them on my boat, I opened up around the sides, and cored several holes down to the laundry room so, I hope, there is enough air circulation. The SubZero's circulated all of their air from under the toe-kick in front.
Do yours have separate power supplies? If so how did you mount them?

 

[The crime scene]

Thanks Keith - Looking good! I've got the units sitting in the opening and made the center posts last night. I like the idea of the gap underneath but I'm already too far past that. There is about a foot behind them on my boat, I opened up around the sides, and cored several holes down to the laundry room so, I hope, there is enough air circulation. The SubZero's circulated all of their air from under the toe-kick in front.
Do yours have separate power supplies? If so how did you mount them?

I Have separate power outlets behind the units. I moved one of them for the cord to work. There was an electric box mounted close to that outlet, which prevented the new cord from being plugged in. Both outlets are on the same breaker so I imagine both could be plugged into the same receptacle, but not sure.

I believe you will have more than enough air flow even without venting to the laundry. On mine I will have flow from top and bottom. These units are designed to be installed in tight quarters.

Did you remove the center support?

Keith

 

[ttmott]

There was a duplex outlet behind that has a dedicated circuit breaker; I am moving it down below in the laundry room. On these Vitrifrigo All-In-One drawer units there is a separate power supply that converts 120 VAC to 24 VDC; these will be installed in the laundry room. These refrigeration units run on 12/24 VDC. The power supplies will be down below the galley so if ever a problem - easy to access. Plus I intend to connect the batteries in the future so access will be a breeze. The power supplies prioritize AC power and if lost automatically convert to battery.
I did remove the entire center partition and replaced. The same time you were doing your replacement I was also -
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...-refrigerator-and-freezer-replacement.109027/

 

[The crime scene]

I added a finishing touch to my new fridge/freezer combo. I had a local metal shop cut a piece of brushed stainless to run across the top of both units. I gives it “the look” that I wanted. Prior to adding the stainless, I had a black trim board that was visible. Not a bad look with the wood….just a better look with stainless. The piece cost me $40. I have attached before and after pics.

I also have two original doors if anybody needs a set The hinges are included. I will not be using them

Keith

 

[Benedetta480DB]

Here's info for the original lighting system vendor located in North Palm Beach, FL. They have replacement modules for the LED lamp circuit boards in bright white, medium and warm. $7 ea. BTW, no polarity with these modules.

DRSA
420 US Highway 1 #8
North Palm beach, FL 33408
561-842-5704

 

[scooper321]

Hi folks, I asked over in the 400 thread - and again in the "Sport Yachts" group - but haven't had any luck yet. The best I've gotten is a Sea Ray part number from the parts manual (which I have). I’m thinking there's commonality here between sedan bridges so that's why I'm posting here.

I'm looking for the manufacturer and part number (or a link) for the bridge hatch gasket. It’s supposed to be a 1.75” D shaped foam gasket on my boat and I'll bet it's either the same, or damn similar, on the 480. It doesn't have to be identical... I'm planning on replacing the whole gasket so something similar is fine. Has anyone here replaced their hatch gaskets? Surely some of you have... these boas are 20 years old and the gasket is rubber. Mine is turning to dust.

Thanks in advance.

 

[The crime scene]

Does anyone have the part number for the bridge hatch gas cylinder? I know mine was Ameritool, or at least I thought it was. I have misplaced the bent one from my boat and wanting to order a new one.
Keith

 

[BigStick]

if the same as a 2003... Maxumhardware.com 419-308-4990 part 750-10-120-A1A1. Replaced mine about 4 yrs ago. Dave

 

[The crime scene]

if the same as a 2003... Maxumhardware.com 419-308-4990 part 750-10-120-A1A1. Replaced mine about 4 yrs ago. Dave

Thanks Dave.

 

[The crime scene]

if the same as a 2003... Maxumhardware.com 419-308-4990 part 750-10-120-A1A1. Replaced mine about 4 yrs ago. Dave

Update on the gas cylinder for my bridge hatch. Maxum Hardware is awesome. I called them directly and the service rep was super. He advised that I needed to order online and walked me through the website. I learned a little and wanted to pass along. The website is easy to use and the rep guided me to the 750-10 section of cylinders. Then the drop down menu popped up. I selected 120 for the pressure and then instead of A1 and A1, which are 10mm ends, he advised to pick D2 and D2…which are stainless steel ends instead of the plastic ends. A1 ends are plastic and D2 are stainless. My old plastic ends were crap which caused the cylinder to come off the mount and get caught in the door, bending the cylinder.

A new cylinder with stainless ends…..less than $100.
Keith

 

[carterchapman]

Update on the gas cylinder for my bridge hatch. Maxum Hardware is awesome. I called them directly and the service rep was super. He advised that I needed to order online and walked me through the website. I learned a little and wanted to pass along. The website is easy to use and the rep guided me to the 750-10 section of cylinders. Then the drop down menu popped up. I selected 120 for the pressure and then instead of A1 and A1, which are 10mm ends, he advised to pick D2 and D2…which are stainless steel ends instead of the plastic ends. A1 ends are plastic and D2 are stainless. My old plastic ends were crap which caused the cylinder to come off the mount and get caught in the door, bending the cylinder.

A new cylinder with stainless ends…..less than $100.
Keith

Keith - let us know how 120 psi cylinders work...I thought our bridge hatch was 60 psi and our ER hatch was 70 PSI...

 

[douglee25]

Keith - let us know how 120 psi cylinders work...I thought our bridge hatch was 60 psi and our ER hatch was 70 PSI...

"220....221.... whatever it takes."

 

[The crime scene]

Keith - let us know how 120 psi cylinders work...I thought our bridge hatch was 60 psi and our ER hatch was 70 PSI...

My old cylinder was 120. I don’t know if that was the original spec or not.

 

[ranger58sb]

Keith - let us know how 120 psi cylinders work...I thought our bridge hatch was 60 psi and our ER hatch was 70 PSI...

Our bridge hatch springs are indeed originally 60 psi. I just replaced the single 35 psi bridge hatch gas spring that was on the boat when we got it, presumably a PO replacement. (First had to source a missing bracket for the missing spring.)

The factory replacements from Ameritool are 26" uncompressed, 16" compressed. And it now takes significant downward pressure on the hatch to get it closed enough to lock.

I've also replaced the gas springs on the cockpit bench seats, because one of those was missing on each seat. I first replaced one set with gas springs from West Marine, I forget the brand off-hand, 15" x 9" 20 PSI. Then recently I got the Ameritool factory replacement, ditto 15" x 9" 20 psi.

Haven't looked at the ER hatch springs yet.

-Chris

 

[TimCS55]

Have any of you replaced the port light screens in the guest cabin? The SR Parts Catalog number is (I think) 1331313 PORTLIGHT, SCREEN 3/8"X 7/8". If you replaced it, do you have a source? Thanks in advance.
Mike

Mike, I’m looking for the same thing. Did you get a response to this or find a supplier?

 

[TimCS55]

Can anyone help me with a source for replacing the 1331313 portlight screen?

 

[The crime scene]

I’m starting on the outside “side window” gaskets next week. Has anybody changed theirs and care to give a pointer? I have the outer seal/gasket from Taylor Made and it appears to be straight forward friction fit. Am I wrong or will I need some sort of adhesive?
Keith