Dead calm Bay. Port motor @ 900degrees throughout. Starboard at 1100 until 1900 rpm, then dropped to 1000. At 2000 and up it hovered under 1000 degrees. This has been constant throughout my ownership, despite taking out some pitch a couple years ago. MikeIf we go out this weekend, I will document.
The Pentair Aqua King is as good as any pump. That's what I have and no issues at all over about five years of use so far.Ok, I have an update. 13.1V is getting to the water pump, so it looks to be a pump failure and/or a famous pressure switch failure. Looking at the pump itself, it’s only a 3GPM Shurflo, which was put in my my maintenance guy last year. It’s obviously underpowered. Looking at the manual, the original pump was a 5.7 GPM Shurflo. Which new pump would you recommend?
In addition, has anyone updated the blue water filter that is next to the water heater? If so, what is the recommended replacement?
Thanks so much for all of your help!
I have the same pump, the pressure is like being at home . We can run both showers at the same time and no issues with pressure. Downfall is we use more water but we are not far from a dock much so not an issue for us.Shurflo is a good pump, if you get the right one for the job. I have the Jabsco Par-Max, it's 40 or 60 PSI and is 6GPM flo. I have the 60 PSI version, it's like being at home.
I have the same pump, the pressure is like being at home . We can run both showers at the same time and no issues with pressure. Downfall is we use more water but we are not far from a dock much so not an issue for us.
I have 2 daughters and a wife on the boat with me so may just be an issue of them using too much water more than the pump providing more!When I first got my boat I had two Shurflo pumps, 4.5 GHP, that operated at the same time. One got really hot from a slow leak and seized up and I moved to this pump. But I didn't notice any more or less water usage. I haven't had any issues running low and I stay out 3-4 days in a row on anchor at times, showering every day and washing Cody (Lab) off as well. But I guess the larger GPH does imply more water usage.
The plumbing should handle 60psi no problem. My recommendation is to not use the city water connection. I use my water tank exclusively and refill when empty. This way the water in the fresh water tank is always circulating and stays fresh. To make filling the water tank easier, I cut about a foot off the end of a hose and connect that to my shore water hose, then put that end of the hose into the water tank opening so that I don’t have to hold it while it’s filling. I just put it in and walk away until it starts overflowing.Seriously. Thank you all so much! This forum is literally THE BEST.
I am going to purchase a 6+ GPM pump due to the reasons mentioned above. Quick question - what PSI do you recommend? My boat is a 2005, so I do not want to blow things up. Haha.
In addition, for the post-pump filter, what pleated sheets do you recommend? I am using the stock, blue vertical cylinder style filter located just after the pump.
Also, are there any precautions I need to take to protect this pump when I switch back and forth between city water and the onboard tank? I want to make sure I have set the bypass features correctly.
Very interesting. I could see switching back and forth between city and tank water being tough in the pump. Also, always having fresh water in your tank is a big plus. Is not using the city water hookup a fairly common practice? It makes total sense.
One more thing to watch - The hose fittings SR used throughout the boat have a tendency to start leaking at the crimp ferrule. The hose ID was a bit larger than the barb fitting and they relied on the crimp of the brass ferrule to swage the hose down on the barbs. Not a good application. Raising the system pressure may create issues in these fittings. So, make it a routine to look for water leaks wherever those fittings are. And they are everywhere....Once again, thanks so much for this tip. I will switch over once my new 6 GPH pump arrives.