500/520 DB official thread

Awesome pic and great meeting you!!!

Enjoy your new boat....I know I am
 

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My windlass stopped working yesterday afternoon and I had to clean up the boat and leave so I didn’t have time to diagnose it other than looking for the breaker for it which I didn’t find (it was about 120deg in the engine room after running so didn’t spend too much time looking). It seems I lost all power to it as the master power switch at the helm will not light up. I am going to head down tomorrow night to look into it. Does anyone know where the breaker is for it? Anyone have it stop working and find a different issue?
 
Jeremygavin said:
My windlass stopped working yesterday afternoon and I had to clean up the boat and leave so I didn’t have time to diagnose it other than looking for the breaker for it which I didn’t find (it was about 120deg in the engine room after running so didn’t spend too much time looking). It seems I lost all power to it as the master power switch at the helm will not light up. I am going to head down tomorrow night to look into it. Does anyone know where the breaker is for it? Anyone have it stop working and find a different issue?
Click to expand...
If your windlass stalls and you hold the button it will definitely trip the breaker. That circuit breaker is inside of the Main Disconnect Panel which is that large enclosure with a cover on it right by the batteries. Sometimes they do not look "tripped" so turn it off then back on.
IMG_3193.JPG
 
ttmott said:
If your windlass stalls and you hold the button it will definitely trip the breaker. That circuit breaker is inside of the Main Disconnect Panel which is that large enclosure with a cover on it right by the batteries. Sometimes they do not look "tripped" so turn it off then back on.
View attachment 72820
Click to expand...
Perfect, thank you for the insight. I didn’t look In There for the breakers. I will check it out tomorrow night. I appreciate the help.
I was pulling hard on the windlass which I don’t usually do but because I was in a tight anchorage and someone anchored on top of my anchor (They were fine when they first anchored until they put 4 boats on it and then dragged their anchor a bit). They were not overly interested in moving forward so I was trying to inch up on it slowly to avoid pulling myself into them so I didn’t want to bump the engines forward and push into them. Once they realized they would need to move my pulpit was over their swim platform.

Thanks again.
 
Any of you have trouble with the bridge A/C during a long run? I get the HI PS code after about 3 hours on plane. Once I stop, it works just fine. Mike
 
Jeremygavin said:
Perfect, thank you for the insight. I didn’t look In There for the breakers. I will check it out tomorrow night. I appreciate the help.
I was pulling hard on the windlass which I don’t usually do but because I was in a tight anchorage and someone anchored on top of my anchor (They were fine when they first anchored until they put 4 boats on it and then dragged their anchor a bit). They were not overly interested in moving forward so I was trying to inch up on it slowly to avoid pulling myself into them so I didn’t want to bump the engines forward and push into them. Once they realized they would need to move my pulpit was over their swim platform.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...
I had the same issue. Breaker didn’t look tripped but turned it on and off and it fixed this issue. Hope it works for you. I had the same symptoms.
 
spikedaddy99 said:
Any of you have trouble with the bridge A/C during a long run? I get the HI PS code after about 3 hours on plane. Once I stop, it works just fine. Mike
Click to expand...

That usually means you do not have enough cooling water to the system.
On my boat it is a separate strainer and pump for the bridge AC than the other 3 units. Make sure you have good flow to that unit, check intake seasick, strainer, pump and lines That is a long run up to the bridge and need to go up 12-13ft lift from the pump so pump needs to be strong to make the rise up to the bridge. When on plane you could be getting a bit of air in the intake water causing the pump to cavitation. If intake, strainer and pump seem good then try pumping water from a hose through the system and make sure you have good flow through the lines.
 
I don't understand why they didn't label the DC breaker panel in the ER you need to remove the cover to see what's in there I had the same issue. And with my house Batts in front of the door I broke the hinge trying to desperately open it as I was dragging anchor!!!!!! Dumb design
 
Thanks Jeremy, I'll try that next.

Any of you guys travel at 10 knots for any length of time? Or conversely, what type of wind/waves would make you cancel a trip? We are supposed to get 5 footers this weekend on our trip to/from Grand Haven (I have it broken up into 60 mile runs each day) . On plane, this may be a bit rough. Thoughts from you with similar boats?
Mike
 
2 years ago we left for Boston in 5’ers did it for 10 hours don’t get me wrong it wasn’t nice but couldn’t have done it on plane.
We always travel at trawler speed 9-10 kts burning around 2.5 gph per engine
At this speed we shower,cook,clean hell I could probably do an oil change they’re turning so slow.
But at the end of a long trawl it is advised to jump up for 20-30 mins to burn carbon off the turbos.
 
5’ers would greatly depend on period between waves on The Chesapeake Bay and even with a 52 as I have that will not make the Admiral happy nor the boat in most cases.

I’d pass as no sense taking a beating when you can always run another day. Just my 2 cents worth here on the Chesapeake Bay.
 
ttmott said:
If your windlass stalls and you hold the button it will definitely trip the breaker. That circuit breaker is inside of the Main Disconnect Panel which is that large enclosure with a cover on it right by the batteries. Sometimes they do not look "tripped" so turn it off then back on.
View attachment 72820
Click to expand...
It was the breaker. Reset it and all set. Good to know that there are breakers in that box. Thanks again for the info.
 
I’ve always meant to label the breaker box on the outside so if I sent someone to reset it they can easily find it.
Glad it wasn’t a problem jeremy
 
my salon a/c was working fine and seems to have just crapped out.....any thoughts. I've recently cleaned all lines (about a month ago) so that's not an issue. ran it all day saturday, switched to HU and it was working fine yesterday, today, no bueno.....
The T-stat has nothing....
 
Did you try resetting the main breaker in the power panel for the Salon AC? If the thermostat is blank then the unit is off or is not getting power for some reason.
 
Mac Magic said:
Yes, first thing I checked
Click to expand...
Sounds like main board STB. If you can get to it (probably need to remove part of the sofa see photo, white box) pull the cover off the main board enclosure and see if the LED (on the circuit board) is on..... Also disconnect clean and reconnect the cable to the remote control both at the remote and where it connects to the main board. Make sure power is off when opening up that box.... And, it's easiest to completely lift the box off it's mount and pull it out to the limits of the wiring.
SolonAC Unit.jpg
 
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