500/520 DB official thread

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Charlesoceanone said:
When you say delaminating of your cabinets do you mean cloudy finish or the peeling of the veneer? I have the cloudy finish of the doors in spots. My cabinetry seems to be holding up so far. Does anyone know of a refinishing shop or has anyone tried this themselves?
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It is the edges of cabinets that are peeling. Restoration marine is working on a possible repair material but last I head they were not there yet. Here are a few pics of the damage.
 
rlynch03 said:
Thank you folks for the info... Pretty excited for the Surveys this Friday. Also have a buyer flying in Saturday to see our current Regal 3760.
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Surveys went pretty good, they found a few things. The Cummins mechanic found the below

1) After Coolers have never been rebuilt, 07 500 hours, he wants $3k to rebuild.
2) Port engine valves are tapping, should be adjusted $250 x 2
3) Trans Filters are not designed for Gear oil, recommend to replace with ZF or Baldwin filters

The boat surveyor found the below.

1) green Nav Lt Out
2) Shower drain box float is a little high and leaves water that is then drained into the (Washer/Drier area) bilge and causes high water alarm to sound coming off plain.

Thoughts on the prices and issues?
 
If this boat is anywhere South go the Mason Dixon line in salt water and no exhaust leaks around the manifolds I’d be shocked ! For what it’s worth Cummins came out late spring of last years with recommendations on modifications replacing manifold studs with longer ones, adding additional spacers (code for increasing heat expansion) and updated torque pattern for manifolds.

One choice was to send manifolds out to be shaved flat which might cause a new alignment problem or replace manifolds with new which eliminated that potential rebuild problem. New manifolds were about $1,600 which was no brained IMHO.

This was no small one day job and I only had a very small amount of leakage and wanted to be proactive rather than have bigger problem later. Installed EGT gauges, reduced pitch to achieve less than 18GPH at Cruise per Tony Athens recommendations.

When I pulled the manifolds down I went ahead and had all the raw water side coolers pulled sent out & cleaned. Heat exchangers, Fuel coolers, transmission coolers, After coolers as well as the gen set. Being a 2006 Boat I wanted a clean base line to run with so I knew where I was. For that scope of work I’d budget 13-18 BOAT dollars based on Cummins performing the work which is what I wanted for my records and future resale documentation.
 
rlynch03 said:
Does the Smartcraft show generator information? On the sea trial I saw a generator alarm page but that was it...?
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Sometimes - if that boat has the Diesel View monitor then the generator data will be displayed. If the boat has Vessel View then not.
There are three data networks in the Smartcraft wiring harnesses; one for the engine data called "CAN P", one for the hull and gear systems called "CAN H", and one for other called "CAN V". The generator data is carried on the CAN V network. Diesel View integrates the CAN V and can display what is on that network; However, Mercury Marine discontinued supporting the CAN V network and the later Vessel View will not recognize it.

FYI - If you do a search there are some threads where we worked through converting the generator Smartcraft data to SAE J1939 then to NMEA 2000 so it will display on the Vessel View monitor.
 
Gimme Time said:
If this boat is anywhere South go the Mason Dixon line in salt water and no exhaust leaks around the manifolds I’d be shocked ! For what it’s worth Cummins came out late spring of last years with recommendations on modifications replacing manifold studs with longer ones, adding additional spacers (code for increasing heat expansion) and updated torque pattern for manifolds.

One choice was to send manifolds out to be shaved flat which might cause a new alignment problem or replace manifolds with new which eliminated that potential rebuild problem. New manifolds were about $1,600 which was no brained IMHO.

This was no small one day job and I only had a very small amount of leakage and wanted to be proactive rather than have bigger problem later. Installed EGT gauges, reduced pitch to achieve less than 18GPH at Cruise per Tony Athens recommendations.

When I pulled the manifolds down I went ahead and had all the raw water side coolers pulled sent out & cleaned. Heat exchangers, Fuel coolers, transmission coolers, After coolers as well as the gen set. Being a 2006 Boat I wanted a clean base line to run with so I knew where I was. For that scope of work I’d budget 13-18 BOAT dollars based on Cummins performing the work which is what I wanted for my records and future resale documentation.
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Yes the Cummins Mech stated there are "minor exhaust leaks on both engines and estimated $5k to pull and shave both of them for a repair. Said it was not anything needed immediately and probable could get away with it for a few years. We will most likely repair it once I get the boat dialed in with Props/Cruise/Load as suggested by Tony Athens.

Mechanic suggested the percentage of load needs to come down at cruise, Which at 2000 rpm it was at 75% Load and 29MPH.
 
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I just had both engines completely serviced.

I noticed that when I’m running the boat there seems to be much more white exhaust smoke.

Any thoughts?
 
Gary B said:
Anyone interested in a free near new cockpit carpet for a 50/52 sedan?

We are having Flexi Teak installed next week and do not need it any longer. It’s only been used since May and is in great shape. I believe the color is the original colored carpet from Sea Ray, “pebble sand”

Pick up on Long Island would be great but can ship at cost too.
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Gary share some pictures of your new Flexi Teak when you can...
 
j98052 said:
Found a replacement convection microwave that is a perfect fit — and the door opens down, instead of swinging out. I needed to drill some new holes on the mounting board, but it fits like a glove.
View attachment 71885 View attachment 71886
It’s a Samsung MC11K7035CG
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Do you find that this new Samsung works well, better than the original?
 
Have any of you upgraded your running lights Red/Green? I have one broken light and thought they would look better with a stainless version.



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rlynch03 said:
When you start the motors do you use the combiner each time to start? Owner told me it isn’t needed but it is better on the starters. However it still made the GPS flash/restart when he started the engines with the combiner engaged
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I also use the combiner every time I start them. My Cummins displays will black out for a second or so and the electronics will reboot so I do like Joe and turn them on afterwards.

This is my 4th season with AGM's, expecting to get a few more.
 
quality time said:
I also use the combiner every time I start them. My Cummins displays will black out for a second or so and the electronics will reboot so I do like Joe and turn them on afterwards.

This is my 4th season with AGM's, expecting to get a few more.
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I asked my service tech, and he agreed that this is the best way to start. Mike
 
rlynch03 said:
Have any of you upgraded your running lights Red/Green? I have one broken light and thought they would look better with a stainless version.



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This winter I put the Perko LED stainless equivalent to what was on from the factor. The have a clear lens so that and the stainless looks sharp IMO.
 
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