500/520 DB official thread

Mine is a 60lb stainless Kodak plow. It does seem large but that is what was spec from Sea Ray. My anchor was bent pretty bad when I bought the boat so I got the part number from Sea Ray for the replacement and it was the 60lb Kodiak which matched the bent one that was already on the boat. Better to be on the larger side than undersized.

Updated to a 55lb Stainless Steel for some added bling...
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My battery switches on the panel work fine, but sometimes the green lights don't come on. Obviously I can see the needle moved to 12+ volts so I know all is good. I was going to replace them this winter, but on my last trip the green lights lit up. Anyone good with switch bodies? Can I clean the bulb contacts and make them work better? 100% fresh water boat so I'm not too concerned it would be corrosion. Boat is 3 hours away so I'm not going to just waste a trip it it isn't a possibility to fix, I'd just replace them. Mike
 
My battery switches on the panel work fine, but sometimes the green lights don't come on. Obviously I can see the needle moved to 12+ volts so I know all is good. I was going to replace them this winter, but on my last trip the green lights lit up. Anyone good with switch bodies? Can I clean the bulb contacts and make them work better? 100% fresh water boat so I'm not too concerned it would be corrosion. Boat is 3 hours away so I'm not going to just waste a trip it it isn't a possibility to fix, I'd just replace them. Mike

If the 52DB panel lights are the same as the 58DB lights, they are LED's. I purchased replacements from Flounder Pounder.
 
If the 52DB panel lights are the same as the 58DB lights, they are LED's. I purchased replacements from Flounder Pounder.
Brian, I have the sea ray part numbers. I just wondered if I could fix them since they work intermittently. Mike
 
My battery switches on the panel work fine, but sometimes the green lights don't come on. Obviously I can see the needle moved to 12+ volts so I know all is good. I was going to replace them this winter, but on my last trip the green lights lit up. Anyone good with switch bodies? Can I clean the bulb contacts and make them work better? 100% fresh water boat so I'm not too concerned it would be corrosion. Boat is 3 hours away so I'm not going to just waste a trip it it isn't a possibility to fix, I'd just replace them. Mike
Do the lights operate correctly on the same switches in the Main Disconnect Enclosure (picture)? If so then open up the salon electrical panel (remove cabinet door then two screws atop the panel assembly; the panel hinges right downward) and reseat the wire terminals on pins 9 and 10 behind the switches. LED's burning out then working again is unlikely.
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My battery switches on the panel work fine, but sometimes the green lights don't come on. Obviously I can see the needle moved to 12+ volts so I know all is good. I was going to replace them this winter, but on my last trip the green lights lit up. Anyone good with switch bodies? Can I clean the bulb contacts and make them work better? 100% fresh water boat so I'm not too concerned it would be corrosion. Boat is 3 hours away so I'm not going to just waste a trip it it isn't a possibility to fix, I'd just replace them. Mike

I had a similar issue (with the indicator LED) with one of my switches. The wire is not getting a good connection in the back of the switch. I re-secured it, it worked for a few weeks and burned out.
 
Here is my solution to getting the info from the generator now that I have VV7 at the helm which doesn’t support the generator info anymore. I was going to mount on the overhead dash next to the VV7 on the bridge but as I thought more about it I liked the idea of being able to get the generator info from the living space as this is where we are most of the time when the generator is running.

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Nice Jeremy! Pretty simple install? Mike
I wasn't too bad. On the genny and back of the panel there are 2 8pin deutsch connentors, one male and one female. You have to run (2) 18/8 wires from panel to genny. It wasn't a bad run, I ran it under the floor in the lazzaret in the prop tunnel area and came up in front of the batteries. Then came up into the electrical closet where all the other wires go up. Behind where I mounted the panel it is all open so cut the hole and mount the panel. On each end of the new wire runs you put a male and female connector. Wire color doesn't matter as long as they correspond on each end of the wire. Once run and connectors are put on then you plug one end into the genny side on each wire and same on panel side. Took me about 4hrs total with most of the time fishing wires and making 32 connections on the plugs.
 
$1032 to change the sea water pump impellers on both diesels. Nuts or normal? Something I can do instead?
I've never questioned my yard before on prices. This one seemed way over normal. Mike
 
$1032 to change the sea water pump impellers on both diesels. Nuts or normal? Something I can do instead?
I've never questioned my yard before on prices. This one seemed way over normal. Mike
Cost for both impellers is around $400 for SMX Super 29 aftermarket impeller. So after that you are looking at around $600 in labor. That’s 6hrs of labor at $100hr. What is the labor rate at your marina? 6hrs as time to take to do the is too much IMO especially for a yard that knows what they are doing. Doing it my first time it took me about 4hrs total. starboard engine takes about 1hr start to finish including cleaning up. To do the port side it took me about 3hrs. I needed to disconnect the guest head vacuum generator and move it out of the way. Take off the alternator and it’s mounting bracket in order to reach the seawater pump. Once those were out of the way it was wedging myself in to be close enough to the pump to work on it. Then reassemble everything. Sounds like they are a little high on that cost.
 
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Thanks for your valued opinion Jeremy. Labor is 125/hr. They charged me 4 hours, and impellers were 258 each. Mike
 
Thanks for your valued opinion Jeremy. Labor is 125/hr. They charged me 4 hours, and impellers were 258 each. Mike
It sounds like it is right there then probably using Cummins parts and the labor rate at $125.
 
Now, do I want to learn how to contort myself on the port side....
It isn't too bad once you get the alternator out of the way. It is more the time to get everything out of the way. Some people said they went up from the back and slide their way up to the pump from there but I am way to claustrophobic for that so it was worth the time disconnecting everything to do it from the front of the engine.
It would be good to know how to do the job in case you are away from home on a trip and you need to change it out.
 
Now, do I want to learn how to contort myself on the port side....

you can do the job much cheaper than that. I buy the impellers online and remove the port Alt all in all around 2-1/2 hrs labor for both sides. And you might as well install a new belt while the alt is out of the way.
I use Sherwood impellers and after 3 seasons they still look new.
 
Weekend project - added 2 engine room cameras. After the muskrat incident, wanted more coverage.

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Nice install and great quality cams.
question? Are they Baldwin filters your using? Courious because when I had my boat surveyed the Cummins mech made a comment that one filter was an off brand and the previous owner should be using Fleetguard at least
I only use fleetguard and or Cummins filters now.
 

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