500/520 DB official thread

Found the leak. It was the water line from the FW pump to the manifold. Jeremy wins. Thank you. M
 
Found the leak. It was the water line from the FW pump to the manifold. Jeremy wins. Thank you. M

Hope you got it however, I replaced all of my fittings on the manifold and I am still getting some water in the bilge although it will be dry for a while.
 
Found the leak. It was the water line from the FW pump to the manifold. Jeremy wins. Thank you. M
I am glad you found the leak. Every time I take the stock fittings off and put it back on I can’t get it to stop leaking so I need to cut the fitting off and put a new fitting on. I have tried new gaskets and seals and nothing works. Most guys have had to replace their manifolds entirely to get them to stop leaking.
 
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I am glad you found the leak. Every time I take on the stick fittings off and put it back on I can’t get it to stop leaking so I need to cut the fitting off and put a new fitting on. I have tried new gaskets and seals and nothing works. Most guys have had to replace their manifolds entirely to get them to stop leaking.
Na - you don't need to replace the manifold. The problem is the swaged brass collars on the OEM fittings don't seal the hoses to the fittings adequately and they begin to leak between the ID of the hose and the fitting.
You can use standard PEX threaded adapter fittings from HD or Lowes. The issue is those blue and red hoses have an ID that is larger than the fitting barb end. The fix is to heat the hose end with a heat gun then clamp/conform the hose to the fitting. The hose material is too hard when cold to clamp down on the fittings; heating makes the material amazingly pliable and it easily clamps down to the fittings to a permanent seal. You can use worm screw clamps or the Oetiker clamps.
 
Na - you don't need to replace the manifold. The problem is the swaged brass collars on the OEM fittings don't seal the hoses to the fittings adequately and they begin to leak between the ID of the hose and the fitting.
You can use standard PEX threaded adapter fittings from HD or Lowes. The issue is those blue and red hoses have an ID that is larger than the fitting barb end. The fix is to heat the hose end with a heat gun then clamp/conform the hose to the fitting. The hose material is too hard when cold to clamp down on the fittings; heating makes the material amazingly pliable and it easily clamps down to the fittings to a permanent seal. You can use worm screw clamps or the Oetiker clamps.
Thats exactly where mine was leaking.
 
I don’t even look at the fittings any longer they may leak if you do.

I have replaced all of the Hot/Cold fittings now except a couple on the showers.
That was a PIA job getting to all of them.
 
The anatomy of the OEM POS
IMG_2650.JPG
IMG_2641.JPG
 
5ED3594D-647A-41BC-B9DC-96D5CD7793BC.jpeg

Looking to buy 2007 52 in Sister Bay.

cummins qsm 11’s with 850 hours
anyone have input on exhaust manifold issues?

anyone know this boat?
 
Plenty of info here on the failure of exhaust manifold gaskets. Search the thread “Cummins Dry Exhaust Service Bulletin” It’s very common issue where the gasket seems to fail about every 1,000 hours but some here have reported failure soon after the gasket replacement.
Issue does not affect performance and is more of a nuisance with creating black soot on the engine.
You will also find information on Boatdiesel.com, specifically reports by Tony Athens who is the diesel expert.
 
I need to replace the gasket on my sump pump, the top gasket on the clear plastic cover, any suggestions?
 
I don’t know about you guys but I always seemed to have water in the aft bilge. It seemed to be getting worse. Like some of you I had water coming in at the seem between the hull and top deck. In April during a haul out, I removed the entire rub rail back around the swim platform and up each side. I found the caulk failure where most of my water was coming in only during a fast cruise. There was about a 12-18” of caulk that was basically laying inside the rub rail.
I have also removed and re-caulked the angle clips that hold the transom locker as I found water dripping from there as well.
But I still see a very small amount of water in the rear bilge after a cruise. Nothing from rain. I came to a conclusion (not sure if it’s correct yet, haven’t Sea trialed) that it may be coming from the bilge pumps. I do not see any signs of water traveling from any other area or compartment. I’m thinking that since I run with the Salon AC on that when the port main drain goes under water from a swell or wave as we are cruising, it creates a back pressure and forces water up thru the 2 bilge pump hoses. Once the water is forced over the “upside down” trap, it’s runs down hill to the Whale check valves near the bilge pumps. I bought new valves and even the new ones aren’t 100% sealed. Water in the line will eventually drain thru it and into the bilge.
So I removed the bilge pump hoses at the main drain and added check valves right before the upside down trap. It was a real PITA to get back there but it’s done. Hopefully this works.......
 
Our aft bilge is relatively dry. We get water accumulating in the forward bilge under the galley. It’s usually less than a gallon after running on plane for about 2 hours. There were fresh water hose connections that leaked a few years ago but since then they were fixed and we are positive that the fresh water system is not leaking, there are no leaks from the shower sump box or the AC drip pans, the Hull has been inspected and there are no cracks and we resealed the bridge/salon seam last summer which seemed to help a lot but we still get some water in the forward bilge after running. There is no water when the boat is sitting. We are not sure if this is still residual water finding its way from places the sun doesn’t shine. Any ideas??
 
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Can’t help but think it is possibly the overflow line from the sump that goes to the bilge. Maybe try capping it temporarily and see if it solves the issue.
 
Can’t help but think it is possibly the overflow line from the sump that goes to the bilge. Maybe try capping it temporarily and see if it solves the issue.
Thanks for the suggestion. We put an empty plastic bottle over the sump box overflow hose for two seasons and the bottle had zero water
 
Wanted to thank whomever posted about the windlass breaker location! You saved my afternoon.

Our windlass breaker tripped for the first time in 6 seasons when picking up anchor in the wind. The breeze caught the bow, causing it to swing quickly which put a strain on the windlass.

Thank God I remembered the post regarding the location of the breaker in the engine room. I was able to describe where it was was while at the helm to my wife found it. She reset it. and all was good at that point.

I Am still shaking my head thinking about how poorly located that breaker and the bow thruster fuses are. I am ordering spare thruster fuses to place right next to where they located just in case we need them.
 
Question, Hydraulic swim platform platform extendable ladder...

Has anyone replaced theirs? Ours had one of the bolts break off. No problem will fix it this week however the wife is asking for Nicer, easier to close ladder...

Our friends have a 48DA with a under the platform extendable ladder and it is much nicer than ours. Seems more robust, larger step pads, etc. maybe there is more room for the under the platform ladders compared to our set up under the door on top of the platform.
 
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