500/520 DB official thread

I'll get EGT's at incremental RPM's next time I'm out. Definitely next weekend if not this one.

I find that my EGT's are the highest in the 1700-1900 range.
 
I'll get EGT's at incremental RPM's next time I'm out. Definitely next weekend if not this one.

I find that my EGT's are the highest in the 1700-1900 range.
Can you also give your propeller specifications, fuel burn rate, and load indicated with the EGT's? That would give us good anchor in the data.
Tom
 
Yeah, it's a shame that such a great engine has this design flow.

I didn't study this engine in great detail, but my understanding is that the nature of the leak is due to extreme temps and lack of cooling. So, until CUMMINS comes up with a mod to introduce cooling (maybe an additional HE?) or a titanium (or any similar material to withstand 1000 degrees temp) gasket, it obviously makes sense for the leak to keep coming back.

In the meantime, if you wish to prolong the life of the gaskets, all you can do is keep the exhaust temp as low as possible. It sounds like trawling speed will save a lot of money not just on fuel, but also thousands on fixing the leak. :)

On a serious note, was there any matrix posted earlier that shows exhaust temps at different RPMs. What I'm trying to get out of this, is if anyone did a study say cruising at lower end (RPMs) just to stay on plane. For example, say at your regular cruising speed you stay at 1900RPMs and your exhaust temp is over 1000deg. What if you take it down to 1700RPMs, does the exhaust temp drop substantially?

No. At lower planing speeds the temp actually goes up. Higher speeds gives lower temps. I run about 1900-2000 rpms to keep temps under 1000. So in less than ideal conditions, and lower speeds, my temps run high.
 
Had the survey done yesterday. A bunch of little things, but no deal breakers!

Had the bottom power washed while it was out, and hit nearly 36mph at 2330 RPMs. No evidence of soot on the exhaust manifold, so that is good!

What does everyone do with their breakers when leaving the boat for a week? Do you leave the batteries on? My thought is to leave the batteries on, but shut the breakers off to everything except the A/Cs, sumps, and fridge.

Thoughts?

Tim
 
I shut off the battery main breakers in the panel. Any crucial systems such as the bilge pumps as not shut down with these main battery breakers. They are on individual breakers in the panel to the right of the engine room entry.
I shut off all AC breakers accept the AC pump, Salon AC (to run in dehumidify mode), house battery charger, bowthruster charger, Cockpit ACC (because that runs my cockpit fridges on AC and ice maker), and Salon Fridge breaker. I don't like having any chance of an unnecessary system having power and having an issue and relying on the breaker to protect the boat.
 
What does everyone do with their breakers when leaving the boat for a week? Do you leave the batteries on? My thought is to leave the batteries on, but shut the breakers off to everything except the A/Cs, sumps, and fridge.

Thoughts?

Tim
Everything is on except for engine key switches are off, water heater circuit breaker off, range circuit breaker off, and the cockpit ice maker is turned off. The reason is I have quite a few of the boat's systems integrated to WiFi / NMEA 2000 so I can remotely monitor the boat.
Tom
 
Thanks all!

The Cummins tech said that there was a code on the engines for starting out of order. He said its not a major issue, but the Starboard is the master and the Port is the slave with the electronics, so the Starboard should be started first.

Does that make sense?

Tim
 
Thanks all!

The Cummins tech said that there was a code on the engines for starting out of order. He said its not a major issue, but the Starboard is the master and the Port is the slave with the electronics, so the Starboard should be started first.

Does that make sense?

Tim
"a code on the engines for starting out of order"....
New to me and I know these engines and systems pretty well.
The engines from an operation aspect are completely independent and it doesn't matter which is started first. From a Smartcraft communications aspect the Starboard is instance 0 and port is instance 1. The only other subsystem that requires identification between starboard and port is the C-Cruise and Sync features which is also Smartcraft integrated through a multiplex module. From what I can understand, engine messages and J1939 run data that are issued by the ECM's are port and starboard decoded through the SIM modules. I believe the System Integration Module (SIM) which is the black Motorola box mounted on the engines is the device that determines uniqueness between the engines for the monitor and messaging systems. I do know that the SIM's cannot be swapped between the engines once they are initialized to an ECM; the engines will run just fine but all comm will be lost at the helm (Vessel View, messages, gauges, etc). Do the ECM's get a unique fingerprint when set up on an engine?? I don't think so but not totally sure.
 
Last edited:
Speaking on c cruise can someone give me instructions on how to reset/ set the cruise rpms so I can use them? I’m afraid to touch them on our sea trial the Cummins tech hit them and one engine went to cruise rpms and the other went to idle he mentioned I guess no one uses them. How do I avoid this scenario again .
 
Speaking on c cruise can someone give me instructions on how to reset/ set the cruise rpms so I can use them? I’m afraid to touch them on our sea trial the Cummins tech hit them and one engine went to cruise rpms and the other went to idle he mentioned I guess no one uses them. How do I avoid this scenario again .

Marine Cruise Control
This feature provides the user the ability to set two vessel cruise speeds. The engines are shipped from the factory with default values pre-loaded. The user can set these values depending on their preference, and these setpoints can be modified as required. The feature is activated by turning the Cruise 1/Cruise 2 rocker switch to the desired position. Cruise 1 and Cruise 2 setpoints are retained after a keyswitch OFF cycle.
There are two options for activating the cruise control feature.
  • Option 1
  • Put the cruise switch (2) in the desired position, CRUISE 1 or CRUISE 2.
  • Move the throttle(s) past the desired cruise speed.
The engine(s) speed will increase to the cruise setting.
  • Option 2
  • Move the throttle past the cruise setpoint.
  • Press the CRUISE 1 or CRUISE 2.
The engine(s) speed will decrease to the cruise setting.
NOTE: When using the engine synchronization feature, the master throttle is the only throttle that must be moved past the cruise point.
To turn the marine cruise control off, put the cruise switch (2) in the OFF position (rocker switch in the center position).
The engine(s) rpm will slowly ramp to the throttle lever setting.
NOTE: The engine will maintain cruise control even with the switch in the OFF position until the throttle is decreased below the cruise rpm.

When changing between CRUISE 1 and CRUISE 2, the engine will ramp up or down to the new desired cruise setting.

To change the CRUISE 1 or CRUISE 2 default setting rpm:
  1. With the engine running, select the cruise setting that you want by setting cruise control switch (2) to CRUISE 1 or CRUISE 2.
  2. Move the throttle, both if twin-engine, to the full throttle position while underway, or at the dock with the gear in neutral. The engine will not exceed the existing cruise setting. For example; if CRUISE 2 is at the factory setting of 1200 rpm, the engine will only reach 1200 rpm at full throttle.
  3. Using the RPM ± switch (4), adjust the cruise rpm to the new desired engine speed.
NOTE: The cruise speeds can be set between idle and rated engine speed. This new setting will be saved until the cruise is readjusted.
 
Had the survey done yesterday. A bunch of little things, but no deal breakers!

Had the bottom power washed while it was out, and hit nearly 36mph at 2330 RPMs. No evidence of soot on the exhaust manifold, so that is good!

What does everyone do with their breakers when leaving the boat for a week? Do you leave the batteries on? My thought is to leave the batteries on, but shut the breakers off to everything except the A/Cs, sumps, and fridge.

Thoughts?

Tim
I leave the batteries on along with the a\c units, battery chargers and refrigerators. Once I’ve opened up for the season it stays open. In regards to the starboard engine starting 1st I have read that as well. I thought it was on this site but can’t remember for sure. If your dealing with cummins in Columbia is they send an older gentleman down? Can’t remember his name but he was super in person but he’s isn’t know I had a camera and cussed and groaned when I wasn’t around. He is a great mechanic though. Happy to hear your survey went well!
 
Last edited:
I leave the batteries on along with the a\c units, battery chargers and refrigerators. Once I’ve opened up for the season it stays open. In regards to the starboard engine starting 1st I have read that as well. I thought it was on this site but can’t remember for sure. If your dealing with cummins in Columbia is they send an older gentleman down? Can’t remember his name but he was super in person but he’s isn’t know I had a camera and cussed and groaned when I wasn’t around. He is a great mechanic though. Happy to hear your survey went well!

Yep, it was Mitchell.
 
Just got the full survey. It lists hydraulic steering pressure as being low (12 psi). Says mfg specs are between 25-35 psi. How does one "charge" the system?
 
Just got the full survey. It lists hydraulic steering pressure as being low (12 psi). Says mfg specs are between 25-35 psi. How does one "charge" the system?

The reservoir is located on the starboard bulkhead wall behind the engine. I believe there is a typical “tire” type fill valve that you can connect a compressor to or even use a bicycle hand pump. If you use a compressor, be sure to regulate the pressure to somewhere between the 25-35 psi. Also, check the level of fluid before you add pressure. If it needs fluid do that first, then set the pressure.
 
Last edited:
The reservoir is located on the starboard bulkhead wall by the engine. I believe there is a typical “tire” type fill valve that you can connect a compressor to or even use a bicycle hand pump. If you use a compressor, be sure to regulate the pressure to somewhere between the 25-35 psi. Also, check the level of fluid before you add pressure. If it needs fluid do that first, then set the pressure.

Awesome! Thank you

Tim
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,118
Messages
1,426,547
Members
61,035
Latest member
Lukerney
Back
Top