500/520 DB official thread

Tim Fila said:
What does everyone do with their breakers when leaving the boat for a week? Do you leave the batteries on? My thought is to leave the batteries on, but shut the breakers off to everything except the A/Cs, sumps, and fridge.

Thoughts?

Tim
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I leave all breakers ON except the Stove, Water Heater, Washer/Dryer and the ignition keys. Same reasons as others; to keep the WiFi router and cameras rolling...
 
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cod said:
The reservoir is located on the starboard bulkhead wall behind the engine. I believe there is a typical “tire” type fill valve that you can connect a compressor to or even use a bicycle hand pump. If you use a compressor, be sure to regulate the pressure to somewhere between the 25-35 psi. Also, check the level of fluid before you add pressure. If it needs fluid do that first, then set the pressure.
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Wow didn’t know the steering system has air added. Need to look into this...
 
400 EC Michigan said:
Tim- wondering where you found the 52 Sedan Bridge and where you are located. I have been looking for a good condition freshwater 52DB for a few years.
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Marine Max Lake Ozark has a 06 that looks like it’s in good shape. The nice thing about Ozarks boats is they are all stored under cover slips so the gel coat is usually in great shape.
 
Closing this week!

My wife asked about the bunk room. Are they standard twin beds or twin long?
Thanks
Tim
 
Tim Fila said:
Closing this week!

My wife asked about the bunk room. Are they standard twin beds or twin long?
Thanks
Tim
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Standard twin is closest. If anything they are a little shorter than a standard twin.
 
spikedaddy99 said:
Congrats 1st!! As Jeremy said, they are a little shorter. In fact the upper is shorter than the lower by a few inches.
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We have the 2007 52DB which may have slightly different bunks but my 5’8” Son is tip to tip in the bottom bunk.
 
I have a bicycle air pump and check pressure visually pretty much monthly. I’ve added air typically about once a year as cooler weather the pressure drops some just like car tires. You really don’t want to wait till you’re steering wheel has play in it as you’re autopilot will hunt more often then. It’s easy and only takes a couple of minutes. Gauge is above the reservoir on starboard bulkhead.
 
Gimme Time said:
I have a bicycle air pump and check pressure visually pretty much monthly. I’ve added air typically about once a year as cooler weather the pressure drops some just like car tires. You really don’t want to wait till you’re steering wheel has play in it as you’re autopilot will hunt more often then. It’s easy and only takes a couple of minutes. Gauge is above the reservoir on starboard bulkhead.
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So the recommend pressure to show on the gauge is 25-35psi? I believe mine shows almost zero.

I assumed the gauge would show pressure when the steering is off dead center. Had no idea. Haven't seen any instructions in the manuals on this either. What is the gauge back in the stern at the ram above the rudders supposed to read and when?
 
I don’t recall the PSI range numbers as I think I wrote it on the bulkhead but I’m sure in my mind 10 would be about the lowest. Regarding the rear gauge I have no idea as I’ve never paid any attention to it. Could it be for the domestic water side of the water pump back there or the trim tabs as I don’t recall but shall look at it this weekend. The steering system pressure info is probably on line from the steering manufacture!
 
When we had the survey, the air horn did not work. The compressor kicked on and held pressure. When you hit the horn, you could hear the air leak out and not sound the horn. Any idea who the mfg is or what kind of fitting it connection is?
 
Tim Fila said:
When we had the survey, the air horn did not work. The compressor kicked on and held pressure. When you hit the horn, you could hear the air leak out and not sound the horn. Any idea who the mfg is or what kind of fitting it connection is?
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I think you will find that the solenoid valve that is mounted in the overhead console and attached to the horn above is most likely the issue. Mine was corroded internally and first wouldn't work, I took it apart and tried to fix it then it stuck open. I replaced the solenoid valve with one from an old nitrous oxide kit I had laying around and the horn works like new. So for you performance buffs - I've got NOS on my boat....
nos-16025nos_w_ml.jpg
 
ttmott said:
I think you will find that the solenoid valve that is mounted in the overhead console and attached to the horn above is most likely the issue. Mine was corroded internally and first wouldn't work, I took it apart and tried to fix it then it stuck open. I replaced the solenoid valve with one from an old nitrous oxide kit I had laying around and the horn works like new. So for you performance buffs - I've got NOS on my boat....
nos-16025nos_w_ml.jpg
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Which one? Lol Or is it, not any more...
 
ttmott said:
I think you will find that the solenoid valve that is mounted in the overhead console and attached to the horn above is most likely the issue. Mine was corroded internally and first wouldn't work, I took it apart and tried to fix it then it stuck open. I replaced the solenoid valve with one from an old nitrous oxide kit I had laying around and the horn works like new. So for you performance buffs - I've got NOS on my boat....
nos-16025nos_w_ml.jpg
Click to expand...
Is that considerer a stage 1 or 2 horn now??? LOL
 
Tim Fila said:
When we had the survey, the air horn did not work. The compressor kicked on and held pressure. When you hit the horn, you could hear the air leak out and not sound the horn. Any idea who the mfg is or what kind of fitting it connection is?
Click to expand...

Air horn should be a Kahlenberg.
 
When the switch is pushed, you can hear the air "leaking". If the solenoid was bad, would we still hear that?

Tim
 
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