500/520 DB official thread

Tom,

I would think that is something that you would need to get from Sea Ray. It’s hard to believe there is a 2” difference between the two. I’m curious what both the dimensions are. Best I can do it pull a dimension from coupler to coupler and compare to what you have.
Appreciate that! We are thinking as long as the shafts are parallel to each other, parallel to the keel, and centered in the logs everything else (engines and struts) can be aligned to them.
 
Appreciate that! We are thinking as long as the shafts are parallel to each other, parallel to the keel, and centered in the logs everything else (engines and struts) can be aligned to them.

Tom,

We measure 57 1/2” coupling to coupling (Center to Center).....
 
Tom,

We measure 57 1/2” coupling to coupling (Center to Center).....
Thanks! I'm 60" at the prop nuts and 58" at couplings. Until the boat is out of the water I won't know if the shafts are centered in the logs; they look like it based upon the dripless seal centering.
 
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Thanks! I'm 60" at the prop nuts and 58" at couplings. Until the boat is out of the water I won't know if the shafts are centered in the logs; they look like it based upon the dripless seal centering.

Do you have any vibration or other issues?
 
Do you have any vibration or other issues?
None - it runs like a champ. We noticed the props were a bit stiff to rotate by hand when out of the water last year. That is when we did the measurements then had to get it back in the water. So this haul out we will be tearing the running gear down and resetting it all.
 
None - it runs like a champ. We noticed the props were a bit stiff to rotate by hand when out of the water last year. That is when we did the measurements then had to get it back in the water. So this haul out we will be tearing the running gear down and resetting it all.

Both of my props are a little stiff to rotate by hand as well. My mechanic said that was typical.?.

What say the group?
 
My plan is:
  • First, machine two Delrin bushings for the shaft logs that fit snugly in the log and the shaft can slide through but has no lateral play. These are to center the shafts in the logs. And build an alignment jig that will allow the shaft at the propeller side to rest and be adjusted.
  • Then when they block the boat i'll have them block level at the keel and level across the transom.
  • I'll set a string in the yard parallel to the keel and that will be the longitudinal datum to set the shafts longitudinally parallel to the keel.
  • The keel, stringers, engine mounts, and engines should all be level and parallel to each other vertically which should result in the 10 degree downward shaft angle (the ZF gear output flange is 7 degrees). We will verify if this is the case in the initial measurements before tear-down.
  • We will measure the lateral parallel error for both shafts to the datum string we steaked in the yard to give us somewhat of a starting point.
  • Then everything gets disassembled and the struts go to the prop shop to check/correct for twist and straightness with new cutlass bearings.
  • Then we will install the shaft log bushings and slide the shafts to the coupler and align to the string for parallel to each other and the keel and establish the correct downward angles. At this point we should be able to move the engines to align the couplers as required. We are not expecting much if any sag/deflection in the shafts as they are only 10 feet long but 2 1/2 inches in diameter.
  • Once the shafts are in their happy spot and couplers aligned we then begin to fit up the struts and get them bedded.
If all goes well I should be able to rotate the shaft with one hand. I do know that Sea Ray didn't use much in the way of precision alignment or fixtures when setting up these boats and the logs were pretty much glassed in using a wet thumb for alignment. So this condition may have always existed..... Who knows.
 
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Tom, Sounds like a good plan. My only thought is what if the 2 shaft logs aren’t parallel? Installing the temporary bushing may be problematic. If you are correct that Sea Ray didn’t use much in the way of precision during mfg., the logs may not be exactly parallel as this is not critical as long as the shaft has ample clearance, No?
As a side note, I am able to spin my shafts with two hands from inside the engine room, never tried with one......
 
Tom, Sounds like a good plan. My only thought is what if the 2 shaft logs aren’t parallel? Installing the temporary bushing may be problematic. If you are correct that Sea Ray didn’t use much in the way of precision during mfg., the logs may not be exactly parallel as this is not critical as long as the shaft has ample clearance, No?
As a side note, I am able to spin my shafts with two hands from inside the engine room, never tried with one......
Yes, thanks - the plan for the bushing is it is only 2 inches thick and installs where the dripless seal boot clamps; the gear side end of the log. It's important, at least in my mind, for the seal to work correctly the shaft be centered there.
 
Ah, ok that makes sense. Should that log be slightly out (not exactly parallel with the keel) wouldn’t the seal bellow compensate for any slight log misalignment?
 
Ah, ok that makes sense. Should that log be slightly out (not exactly parallel with the keel) wouldn’t the seal bellow compensate for any slight log misalignment?
I think so. The Tides seals have a Delrin bearing / bushing behind the lip seal and it's purpose is to make sure the lip seal is always centered on the shaft with the bellows providing the compliance for any wobble. But to have the shaft offset and rely on that bushing to keep things centered would accelerate the wear on the seal system I would think. It seems to me the log tube being parallel is different than making sure the shaft is centered where the seal assembly is installed. I'm hoping this is academic however.
 
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I swear I saw a post on how to remove the original tv in the salon, but I can’t find it.... Any insight on removing it?

Tim
 
Where? I see no visible screws.
Tim
Sorry this is the best photo I have but on mine they are located in the base I circled. If I remember they come up from the top.
C0878761-447D-4038-94C1-4CEBF47DCCEE.jpeg
 
I swear I saw a post on how to remove the original tv in the salon, but I can’t find it.... Any insight on removing it?

Tim
On mine where the bracket is that the television itself attaches to, there is two latches that are part of the bracket assembly (one on each side of the bracket). On those latches are two nylon cords that hang down a couple of inches. Pull those cords down and the latches open up then the bottom of the television can rotate out then when the bottom is pulled out lift up and remove the TV. Ten seconds.
 
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Got it down! Two screws were on the side hidden.

New prob..... survey showed cockpit ice maker wasn’t working. Is there a hidden breaker somewhere. It’s not getting power. I took the front panel off, hoping switch was off. It was on but it’s not getting power.
Tim
 
Got it down! Two screws were on the side hidden.

New prob..... survey showed cockpit ice maker wasn’t working. Is there a hidden breaker somewhere. It’s not getting power. I took the front panel off, hoping switch was off. It was on but it’s not getting power.
Tim
On my boat it is tied to the GFCI outlet in the storage locker under the stairs going to the bridge. The GFCI will trip once or twice a season. I haven’t narrowed down why. I think on the electric panel it is the breaker that says aft systems.
 

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