58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

[550 DB]

It just so happens I had done that at the same ...... and which engineer thought of that one.......as an added plus I have a nice Davit pole to slither around to port as well. I tried for an "06 + with the swim platform to avoid some of this, trust me, but forces higher up stood opposed.

 

[carterchapman]

My most fun "trip" back there has been crawling UNDER the genny exhaust hose on the port side to get behind the genny to remove (and later replace) the power steering ram!

 

[bmac]

Sorry for the delay in posting on the Salon a/c replacement project. My aft a/c compressor somehow overheated and given the fact that the unit is in salt water and is 13 seasons old I decided to repair rather than replace. I also took the opportunity to replace the forward Salon a/c unit at the same time. Being 16k btu units originally I went back with the same. I bought the Dometic Turbo units (plastic drain pan) model number 205162176 or DTG16-2371-410A. Thanks to a good friend the units were around $4500 for the pair. From start to finish took me about 6 hours. It’s a pretty straightforward job, but there are some nuances to be aware of. The old units had raw water supply and return in the rear, the new units in the front. As such, you will need to extend both lines on both units. I’ll summarize parts later. You will also need to relocate the electrical control box panel and redrill the box mounting holes. So, access is pretty easy;

Remove the back rests and seat cushions from both forward and aft couch sections, then remove the forward and aft upper frames and the aft bottom frame.

Now that you have access, remove the covers on both control boxes. Take pictures and mark carefully the power supply cables and the pump power cables;

You can match these against the terminals in the new control box;

The ground cables are easily identified. Be careful removing the SMXII cable, it has to be pulled backwards against a terminal seal. Once the electrical cables are labeled and the boxes removed, the toughest part begins. Carefully remove the ductwork and push it aside.

That’s the aft split duct (sideways) I forgot to take a picture of the forward one. Next, I used a hair dryer to get the hoses off the raw water tubing on the units. The units are held in place by four hold down clamps. Three on the aft unit were easy to remove, the one behind it was bruising and has to be removed blind. The forward unit was more difficult. Only two of the clamps were easily accessible. The rear one was also bruising to get out. When the boat was built, the a/c units must go in before the upper half of the boat goes on. They must also have been installed before the protective plate over the fuel lines was put in because the last clamp hold down screw was under the protective plate. It will be there in perpetuity as I was only able to bend the clamp out of the way. The units can then be removed. To reinstall the new units you will need the following; 8-10 feet 5/8” id hose, 4-1/2” PVC nipples, 16 hose clamps and 1-1/2” 90 degree male elbow for the forward drain pan. Once the new units are installed, and raw water hoses extended you’re almost done. Reconnect the ductwork with new Mylar a/c tape. Route the cables into the new boxes and make the terminations for all four power cables and two ground wires per unit. Reterminate the SMXII control cable. Relocate the control box mounting panel by moving it forward about 14” and mount the boxes. You will also need about 2 feet of cable protection per box. (Which I still need to install). Reinstall the drain pan hoses (I had to shorten the aft hose about 6”). Before powering everything up I turned on the MSR a/c to have the raw water pump running to check for leaks on the new units. Once checked I powered everything back up and voila, cool air.

Couch bases, upper frames and cushions all back and another job done.

 

[rlynch03]

Great work. Didn’t think to tear apart the couch like that.

New units any quieter than the originals?

 

[carterchapman]

Thanks Brian! Great to talk to you the other day. Are the screws for the couch base and back easy to remove/replace?

 

[bmac]

Great work. Didn’t think to tear apart the couch like that.

New units any quieter than the originals?

Yes, the compressors are much quieter but the blower is noisier, though it moves a lot more air. I need to adjust the speed down and I think it’ll be quieter once I do that. I’m very happy with these units

 

[bmac]

Thanks Brian! Great to talk to you the other day. Are the screws for the couch base and back easy to remove/replace?

Carter, yes, very easy. Just use a screw gun with a Phillips head and zip zip they’re out. The screws between the two base frames and upper frames have wing nuts on the other end. Getting the sofa out of the way and back together is the easy part of this job, but I have to believe they would charge $2k for the install labor.

 

[carterchapman]

Brian - do the new units have the same type of mesh removable/cleanable air filters?

 

[bmac]

Brian - do the new units have the same type of mesh removable/cleanable air filters?

Carter, yes they do, though not as easy to reach as on the old units. You can't make them out in the pictures, but they are right behind the copper looking raw water tubes.

 

[JB MARSHALL]

I have a friend who just purchased a 2006 58' Sedan Bridge and needs some assistance on configuring his Direct TV and Bose system. Can anyone supply a few pics of the TracVision and Direct TV units that you have.

We are not sure the KVH satellite unit is even getting power or a signal. Does anyone have any recommended checks to verify this. When the TV is on he only receives the TV guide signal from the TV not the Direct TV signal you would see even if the Direct TV unit was not registered or refreshed from sitting.

Thank you,
JB

 

[bmac]

I have a friend who just purchased a 2006 58' Sedan Bridge and needs some assistance on configuring his Direct TV and Bose system. Can anyone supply a few pics of the TracVision and Direct TV units that you have.

We are not sure the KVH satellite unit is even getting power or a signal. Does anyone have any recommended checks to verify this. When the TV is on he only receives the TV guide signal from the TV not the Direct TV signal you would see even if the Direct TV unit was not registered or refreshed from sitting.

Thank you,
JB

Check to make certain the satellite breaker is on. If the dish is getting power you’ll hear it searching for a signal. Are the boxes his? If the PO shut off Direct TV service your friend probably needs to get new boxes (H24) from DTV. If the boxes came with the boat and are H24’s he will need at least new access cards. If the box is connected correctly to the TV he should at least see the DTV logo on the screen. If you don’t see that makes sure the coax is attached at both ends. Beyond that, time to call KVH. Good luck, dealing with DTV is one of the worst customer experiences you will ever have.

 

[carterchapman]

Shout out to BMAC - right after he posted his Salon AC unit replacement pics, I had to remove my couches to clean out my AC drain lines. Thanks for the help and instructions Brian!

 

[JB MARSHALL]

Check to make certain the satellite breaker is on. If the dish is getting power you’ll hear it searching for a signal. Are the boxes his? If the PO shut off Direct TV service your friend probably needs to get new boxes (H24) from DTV. If the boxes came with the boat and are H24’s he will need at least new access cards. If the box is connected correctly to the TV he should at least see the DTV logo on the screen. If you don’t see that makes sure the coax is attached at both ends. Beyond that, time to call KVH. Good luck, dealing with DTV is one of the worst customer experiences you will ever have.

Thank you for the response. So it looks like he will need a new KVH box, there was not one to be found on the boat so I can only guess the PO removed it for whatever reason. I also cannot understand why this was not caught during the survey. So he has one ordered and we will see what progress is made once installed.

I will also be curious as to what he receives because my KVH box is outdated and no longer available. I should not jinx myself but it still works well... Oh boy now I did it... stay tune. lol...

JB

 

[bmac]

Shout out to BMAC - right after he posted his Salon AC unit replacement pics, I had to remove my couches to clean out my AC drain lines. Thanks for the help and instructions Brian!

Any time, Carter. Happy to be of assistance.

 

[ttmott]

Thank you for the response. So it looks like he will need a new KVH box, there was not one to be found on the boat so I can only guess the PO removed it for whatever reason. I also cannot understand why this was not caught during the survey. So he has one ordered and we will see what progress is made once installed.

I will also be curious as to what he receives because my KVH box is outdated and no longer available. I should not jinx myself but it still works well... Oh boy now I did it... stay tune. lol...

JB

There may not have ever been a "KVH Box". You didn't mention what KVH model the Sat system is. If it is a Trackvision 4 which most were in 2006 then there is the dish assembly on the bridge roof and a switch plate, that's it. There are two coaxial signal feeds coming from the dish assembly which supply the LNB (antenna) signal to DirectTV or Dish receivers. Many of us have the HR24 DirectTV receivers/DVRs and they work just fine. The only issue is there is a generational difference in the antenna selection in the menu of the HR24 and what is in the Trackvision 4; it's a pick one and try until it works.
For me, I have DirectTV at home so it was a simple matter to add another receiver to my account (and that was the key "add another receiver to my account"). I purchased the HR24 from Solidsignal.com (they are a AT&T DirectTV authorized vendor) which came with everything needed and ready to activate. I hooked it up, got it working with the KVH and receiving the sat signal then called AT&T to activate then gave them my account info, the receiver P/N and S/N then the card number. Done, 20 minutes.
With all that said, SR put together quite a quagmire in wiring in order to multiplex the over the air antenna and satellite signals onto a single coxial cable running throughout the boat. This is all pre-HDMI and the picture quality is horrible. I gutted all that old stuff and ran HDMI throughout the boat for the Sat and kept the Coaxial active with the Over the Air antenna as two inputs on each TV - it works great.

 

[bmac]

There may not have ever been a "KVH Box". You didn't mention what KVH model the Sat system is. If it is a Trackvision 4 which most were in 2006 then there is the dish assembly on the bridge roof and a switch plate, that's it. There are two coaxial signal feeds coming from the dish assembly which supply the LNB (antenna) signal to DirectTV or Dish receivers. Many of us have the HR24 DirectTV receivers/DVRs and they work just fine. The only issue is there is a generational difference in the antenna selection in the menu of the HR24 and what is in the Trackvision 4; it's a pick one and try until it works.
For me, I have DirectTV at home so it was a simple matter to add another receiver to my account (and that was the key "add another receiver to my account"). I purchased the HR24 from Solidsignal.com (they are a AT&T DirectTV authorized vendor) which came with everything needed and ready to activate. I hooked it up, got it working with the KVH and receiving the sat signal then called AT&T to activate then gave them my account info, the receiver P/N and S/N then the card number. Done, 20 minutes.
With all that said, SR put together quite a quagmire in wiring in order to multiplex the over the air antenna and satellite signals onto a single coxial cable running throughout the boat. This is all pre-HDMI and the picture quality is horrible. I gutted all that old stuff and ran HDMI throughout the boat for the Sat and kept the Coaxial active with the Over the Air antenna as two inputs on each TV - it works great.
View attachment 86654

Tom, I've been meaning to run HDMI throughout the boat. My bridge TV picture in particular is not very high quality at times. I have to believe some of the cable runs from the box or the hub to an individual TV exceed 40 feet. Where did you find HDMI cable of the lengths you needed and how difficult was it to snake the cables (especially Staterooms and Bridge). Thanks in advance.

 

[ttmott]

Tom, I've been meaning to run HDMI throughout the boat. My bridge TV picture in particular is not very high quality at times. I have to believe some of the cable runs from the box or the hub to an individual TV exceed 40 feet. Where did you find HDMI cable of the lengths you needed and how difficult was it to snake the cables (especially Staterooms and Bridge). Thanks in advance.

Hey Brian - well routing the cable (except for the solon and bridge TV's) was a serious PIA on my boat; in fact, I had to route the HDMI cable under the carpeted base trim then drill up through the locker in the MSR to get it behind the television. My MSR is in the bow of the boat unlike your's. I found long HDMI cables on Amazon and bought some quality 4K rated cables (I think made by Twisted Veins). I also added an HDMI splitter / amplifier so there would be no issues with the long HDMI cables. Below is the schematic of my arrangement:

 

[JB MARSHALL]

Has anyone replaced their original anchor and if so what did you replace it with? Looking for recommendations for my buddy, his anchor does not fit well and it looks like it bangs the bow when pulling it up, very little clearance. It is a plow anchor but I can not tell if its the original and I believe the original was mad specifically for Sea Ray by a company called Southcoast, not sure if they even exist anymore?

Thanks,
JB

 

[tc410]

Has anyone replaced their original anchor and if so what did you replace it with? Looking for recommendations for my buddy, his anchor does not fit well and it looks like it bangs the bow when pulling it up, very little clearance. It is a plow anchor but I can not tell if its the original and I believe the original was mad specifically for Sea Ray by a company called Southcoast, not sure if they even exist anymore?

Thanks,
JB

Sea Ray missed the mark on the 58 anchor roller in my opinion. It’s mounted too far back and anything, including the factory galvanized anchor, has zero clearance and will hit the bow point of you’re not careful. I had a beautiful polished stainless CQR from my 52DB that would look awesome on the 58, but no way it would fit. Only made it like 45 degrees through the roller bail and jammed. Why it fit so perfectly on my 52 makes no sense?

 

[JB MARSHALL]

Hi Jeff thanks for the quick response. This is exactly what we thought, since he just purchased the boat a couple weeks ago we have been trying to figure out what's going on. Every anchor we try does not fit or work without potential damage. He has a metal fabricator making some adjustments so it will provide better clearance and hopefully work much better.