58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

tc410 said:
Sea Ray missed the mark on the 58 anchor roller in my opinion. It’s mounted too far back and anything, including the factory galvanized anchor, has zero clearance and will hit the bow point of you’re not careful. I had a beautiful polished stainless CQR from my 52DB that would look awesome on the 58, but no way it would fit. Only made it like 45 degrees through the roller bail and jammed. Why it fit so perfectly on my 52 makes no sense?
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Have you looked into a larger diameter roller wheel?
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/windline-marithane-wheels
 
JB MARSHALL said:
Has anyone replaced their original anchor and if so what did you replace it with? Looking for recommendations for my buddy, his anchor does not fit well and it looks like it bangs the bow when pulling it up, very little clearance. It is a plow anchor but I can not tell if its the original and I believe the original was mad specifically for Sea Ray by a company called Southcoast, not sure if they even exist anymore?

Thanks,
JB
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I actually purchased a new polished Stainless Steel anchor from Southcoast. They would not sell it direct to me, it had to be ordered through Sea Ray (MarineMax). IIRC it took a few weeks to get it after ordering.
 
tc410 said:
Sea Ray missed the mark on the 58 anchor roller in my opinion. It’s mounted too far back and anything, including the factory galvanized anchor, has zero clearance and will hit the bow point of you’re not careful. I had a beautiful polished stainless CQR from my 52DB that would look awesome on the 58, but no way it would fit. Only made it like 45 degrees through the roller bail and jammed. Why it fit so perfectly on my 52 makes no sense?
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Jeff, not sure what anchor you have but I've never had an issue with mine hitting the boat on the way in and out of the water. I replaced the factory original with a Sea Ray spec'd anchor from Southcoast. Not cheap but it looks good and doesn't hit the boat.
 
So my Empty light on the holding tank is staying ON. 1/2 and Full work fine. Has anybody crawled behind the genny and looked at the sensors. I recall there are two kinds. One screws in about a 4" plug with all three sensors on it, and others are individual sensors in their own small rubber gaskets...Wondering what I'm in for before I pre-medicate with 3 Aleves and dive back there...
 
carterchapman said:
So my Empty light on the holding tank is staying ON. 1/2 and Full work fine. Has anybody crawled behind the genny and looked at the sensors. I recall there are two kinds. One screws in about a 4" plug with all three sensors on it, and others are individual sensors in their own small rubber gaskets...Wondering what I'm in for before I pre-medicate with 3 Aleves and dive back there...
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You’re gonna find the 4” inspection hole with three sensors in it as you describe in your first example. Here’s a trick that works for me when one of my sensor lights stay on.... I have Mag Lite flashlight at the bottom of my bilge ladder. A couple of good raps on the tank with the butt-end of the Mag Lite always gets things back on track for me. Maybe give it a try with what ever solid tool you have close by - don’t go buy a Mag Lite just for this job!!
 
Carter, you finally retired or still in the sims?
 
I took a 4 month leave as we were not accepting any airplanes, but looks like we will start up again in August, so I'll go back a little while longer. There will be some sim work as well as they are going to furlough 2500 pilots in Oct.

My Dad flew till he was 74, so I might go one more year to meet his record...

Hope you and Griselda are doing well in Lakewood Ranch!
 
tc410 said:
You’re gonna find the 4” inspection hole with three sensors in it as you describe in your first example. Here’s a trick that works for me when one of my sensor lights stay on.... I have Mag Lite flashlight at the bottom of my bilge ladder. A couple of good raps on the tank with the butt-end of the Mag Lite always gets things back on track for me. Maybe give it a try with what ever solid tool you have close by - don’t go buy a Mag Lite just for this job!!
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Susan laughed as that is her method as a first fix on just about anything!

So they all three pull out at once, not individually?
 
carterchapman said:
Susan laughed as that is her method as a first fix on just about anything!

So they all three pull out at once, not individually?
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I’ve never removed it so I can’t say for sure, but I believe the whole 4” cap unscrews. Seriously, banging on the tank works so I didn’t want to treat myself to unscrewing that thing and unleashing the nasty smell!
 
Thanks Jeff,

Plus - to remove it is another trip "around back" of the generator Not a fun task just getting there! And have a "tool runner" when you get there - just in case!!

I'm going to whack it next week when I'm sure it is submerged...
 
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So my buddy had his anchor and anchor roller re-worked and it came out great. Installed a larger bow wheel/roller and also had a bar welded onto the anchor so it now keeps the tip of the anchor from hitting the bow.
 
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tc410 said:
I’ve never removed it so I can’t say for sure, but I believe the whole 4” cap unscrews. Seriously, banging on the tank works so I didn’t want to treat myself to unscrewing that thing and unleashing the nasty smell!
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Jeff - you are da man!! 3 raps with a rubber hammer and looks like it’s working again!!
 
carterchapman said:
Jeff - you are da man!! 3 raps with a rubber hammer and looks like it’s working again!!
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I was able to clean mine and it worked for a while. If it does fail you replace each individual float $40 ea or the entire float set $120.

Since it’s a bit of a pain to get to and replace I went with the whole set.

I believe if you could find the magnates (indicator float rings) that will usually fix the issue but I was unable to source them.

You will need to adjust the tube height to match your setup for Empty, Half Full and Full. See attached model that worked for me.

AAE75BCF-A8E0-454B-8CD3-EB08ABDD58E9.png
 
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So I got a Binnacle alarm starting my port engine after we were anchored for 5 hours. Shutdown to let the system reboot and got one more time. 3rd start was OK. My "MAN man" (Wendel Angel at Gulf Coast Diesel - Punta Gorda) was kind enough to send me the instructions for reading the faults on the MPC - that is the board in the top of your engine cabinet (W 4 ribbon cables). FYI - this is the board you remove to access the MMDS board behind it when the small battery on it dies...

The print is small, but you can enlarge it when reading it...
 

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carterchapman said:
So I got a Binnacle alarm starting my port engine after we were anchored for 5 hours. Shutdown to let the system reboot and got one more time. 3rd start was OK. My "MAN man" (Wendel Angel at Gulf Coast Diesel - Punta Gorda) was kind enough to send me the instructions for reading the faults on the MPC - that is the board in the top of your engine cabinet (W 4 ribbon cables). FYI - this is the board you remove to access the MMDS board behind it when the small battery on it dies...

The print is small, but you can enlarge it when reading it...
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Carter, ok, I'll bite. What was the error code and what was the problem? And I do hope this does not turn into another "58DB cousin" sympathy problem.
 
bmac said:
Carter, ok, I'll bite. What was the error code and what was the problem? And I do hope this does not turn into another "58DB cousin" sympathy problem.
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I got the data sheet from Wendel yesterday, and I won't be back on the boat until Thursday.
 
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