97 (early) Sundancer 290DA 454ci L29 Bravo 3

Just kidding, was talking about the filth in the 3rd pic
Nasty huh?!? I can't believe someone let it get to that point. It'll be spotless before I put it back together.
 
WOW. Thats a big job. I'm a pretty handy guy, and I'm looking at that and thinking, "NOPE!"
Ha. I've definitely had easier jobs. Not too bad though. I haven't even had to break out the heat wrench or BFH to get it done.
 
Ha. I've definitely had easier jobs. Not too bad though. I haven't even had to break out the heat wrench or BFH to get it done.

I'm going to be doing the same for my port side 4.3 sometime after I pull the boat out of the water for the season. I replaced the starboard engine early this season but now I'm trying to chase down a water leak somewhere from the port side transom! I just had all of the bellows, shift cables and gimbal bearings done so I don't think it's from any of those. I did pull the boat twice mid season and couldn't find any seals or gaps out of place anywhere or any obvious cracks in the transom. I even replaced the trim manifold and gasket AND ghetto caulked around the outside of the transom just to be sure.

Like yours mine was originally a salt water boat and this leak has me stumped. It does seem to be coming from the bottom of the transom, near where the trim hoses exit, but I can't see it even with an inspection camera.

Where was yours leaking from?
 
Steering shaft pin? Pretty common leak point.
 
Mine was leaking pretty hard core through the steering pin for sure.
Here's where I am as of today. I found a great machine shop close by. I plan on dropping the block and crank off tomorrow. Overall the block looks pretty good. We'll see what it looks like after shot peening. The water jackets look surprisingly clean.

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Steering shaft pin? Pretty common leak point.

No, the pin area is dry and I can see it clearly. The location of the leak seems to be from the lower chamber of the transom-either around the Y pipe or where the trim hoses exit the housing. I'm not thinking the Y pipe as the flow doesn't change with the engine running and the water is never hot. I also replaced the trim hose manifold and gasket in an effort to stop this leak.

This one is frustrating if only that I can't even find where it's leaking from.
 
Ahhh. Much better. Transom assembly is installed. Block is at the machine shop. Barely any salt corrosion inside the block. Very odd. Only thing I can figure is that it was a dock queen. No cylinder ridge, standard bore. She's getting cleaned and tumbled, new cam bearings etc.
Sorry for the sideway pics, but I'm not editing every pic just because the site admin doesn't know what they're doing...

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Hope you 4200ed both sides of that cheapo foam 10 dollar transom gasket.
It's the brand new Mercruiser gasket that came with the assembly. I was going to use sealer on it, but a lot of what I've read says to just grease it which is what I did.
 
Oh boy, did you notice what a pc. of shit that thing is. It will compress to paper thin. Did you look at the condition of the old one? If your outside transom skin isn't dead flat that is where the problem begins
 
Oh boy, did you notice what a pc. of shit that thing is. It will compress to paper thin. Did you look at the condition of the old one? If your outside transom skin isn't dead flat that is where the problem begins
Just looked like a foam seal. Not bad, not stellar. The one that came off was in good shape. It wasn't leaking. Only the steering pin was. The hull is near perfect. Nice and flat and clean.

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My last 2 boats leaked at that seal and my 280 was only 7 years old when it started. My current boats transom wasn't perfectly flat and leaked big time at the age of 20. That gasket just pulled apart in my hands. Wasn't taking any chances when I redid it a couple of years ago.

You can see how that gasket doesn't hold it's shape. POS. that why it's only $10
 
My last 2 boats leaked at that seal and my 280 was only 7 years old when it started. My current boats transom wasn't perfectly flat and leaked big time at the age of 20. That gasket just pulled apart in my hands. Wasn't taking any chances when I redid it a couple of years ago.

You can see how that gasket doesn't hold it's shape. POS. that why it's only $10
I don't blame anyone for using sealant. It's still tempting and isn't a big deal to slide it back out. I'll think some more about it.
 
Not sure why they cheap-out on a very important gasket like that one . I would have paid a $100 for a real formed rubber one that won't lose its shape over time
 
Not sure why they cheap-out on a very important gasket like that one . I would have paid a $100 for a real formed rubber one that won't lose its shape over time
Seriously. Of all gaskets... Not like the assembly was cheap either at $2,800.
 
How was your wood around the key-hole? Always a good idea to paint the exposed wood with epoxy.
 
How was your wood around the key-hole? Always a good idea to paint the exposed wood with epoxy.
It was in surprisingly excellent condition. The paint is still nice too. I think leaking oil kept everything protected. One good thing from people that don't maintain their equipment...
 
I stripped the heads yesterday. I'll cut the guides for posilock valve seals and drop them off at the machine shop tomorrow. They'll get the hot tank, new guides and possibly a valve job. I'll at least lap them myself if I decide not to go with a valve job. They're in amazing shape for saltwater cooled heads.
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You could really wake that motor up by ditching those peanut port heads. Looks like it's been pushing oil.
Are you going to bore it out with new pistons?
 

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