Aetna digital or Faria Chesapeake gauges?

SeaNile

Well-Known Member
Aug 16, 2010
1,514
Chadds Ford, PA
Boat Info
2003 50 Sundancer
Engines
Cummins QSM11
Think of getting new gauges and dash panels for my 95 45 DA.

Any major difference between the Faria Chesapeake and Aetna digital gauges?

My OEM RPM gauges need to be replaced. They don’t seem to be accurate, stick occasionally and it’s a long reach to be knocking on the gauge every few minutes.

Thanks
 
I ditched the OEM Sea Ray for a set of Aetna's. The old ones sucked. The Aetna's are spot on and worth every penny. For a diesel application, I don't think you can beat them for accuracy. Its also plug and play, the hardest part of the swap if getting the Aetna's to fit in your dash (the hole is likely too big), so you will need an adaptor.
 
I ditched the OEM Sea Ray for a set of Aetna's. The old ones sucked. The Aetna's are spot on and worth every penny. For a diesel application, I don't think you can beat them for accuracy. Its also plug and play, the hardest part of the swap if getting the Aetna's to fit in your dash (the hole is likely too big), so you will need an adaptor.

Where can the adapter be had? Seriously considering these.

Bennett
 
I followed some other people here on this site and put the Aetnas in the original housings. Looks factory.
EFA08922-E995-41E5-B8C6-DD4F6D47C55B.jpeg
33D385E5-A721-4234-B8E8-CD6B82F60217.jpeg
AE352657-7CDE-474B-BFC8-3C8A7BA54A1C.jpeg
 
Where can the adapter be had? Seriously considering these.

Bennett

I made a set with just hole saws to get going but a new dash panel was the best for me. I would think one of the dash manufacturers could make a matching trim ring easily.
 
So how hard is it to remove them from the dash panel? Or can you easily release the dash panel from the frame and work on the assembly from the top? Otherwise I will need to lay on my back on the bridge deck in the helm foot space area of my 400 DB and reach up to access the back of the dash panel. I’m trying to understand the difficulty level before jumping in.
 
The gauges come right off if you remove the dash panel. There’s a small amount of foam gasket material surrounding the gauge that has adhesive on it. From there just remove the retainer and they pop right out.
 
I was going to make SS rings but I like this a little better. Did you just cut the guts out and glue them in?

I cut the back off, removed the old gauge, used some black silicone to attach the new gauge to the old and then used some JB weld to hold them in place in the center.

I then mated the back of the gauge back to the canister and cut out a section to fit the wires through.

I can’t take credit for it, there’s a post on here where a few have done it on their 400/410’s.

Here is how the look from the factory on the back. Below that shows them cut open and the JB weld holding them in place.

Many don’t want to JB weld since it’s pretty permanent. I figured I could cut them out if I needed to for any reason.
A9DE6D92-9647-4006-B26C-456A05B937EE.jpeg
7447DBA9-5433-4692-B0B7-A65284A101A0.jpeg
 
So how hard is it to remove them from the dash panel? Or can you easily release the dash panel from the frame and work on the assembly from the top? Otherwise I will need to lay on my back on the bridge deck in the helm foot space area of my 400 DB and reach up to access the back of the dash panel. I’m trying to understand the difficulty level before jumping in.
Super easy on a 400DB. I’ve put them in on three 400DBs and each time I just opened the access doors and did them on my back. You can do the daisy chain of the unneeded illumination wires from the front after you take the original gauges out.
 
Steve, What Bill said above, easy, at least on the 400DB.
My originals crapped out while cruising and I replaced them in an afternoon at a transient dock. Keep in mind that the original poster here and most of the responders have different boats with different dash panels and larger tachs and cut outs than the 400db.
 
Super easy on a 400DB. I’ve put them in on three 400DBs and each time I just opened the access doors and did them on my back. You can do the daisy chain of the unneeded illumination wires from the front after you take the original gauges out.
Our models should be the similar. I have access doors on both sides and only a half “oval” opening in the center helm floor to stick my head in.

So if I am looking at this correctly, the screws and nuts through the metal brackets hold it in place. Remove those nuts, deal with the adhesive mentioned above and they just pop out?
 
Think I am going to order the dash and all new gauges for my boat. I think the new dash, new gauges, new rocket on/off switches and Aqua Marine on the floor will be a nice improvement all around.

Aetna gauges from their website. LED or LCD light?
New dash from searay parts website
 
Last edited:
I cut the back off, removed the old gauge, used some black silicone to attach the new gauge to the old and then used some JB weld to hold them in place in the center.

I then mated the back of the gauge back to the canister and cut out a section to fit the wires through.

I can’t take credit for it, there’s a post on here where a few have done it on their 400/410’s.

Here is how the look from the factory on the back. Below that shows them cut open and the JB weld holding them in place.

Many don’t want to JB weld since it’s pretty permanent. I figured I could cut them out if I needed to for any reason.
View attachment 103264View attachment 103265


Could you explain the process on cutting them. Was it pretty straight forward. What did you use?
 

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