Anchor hits bow roller and winch.

MonacoMike

Well-Known Member
Sep 15, 2009
14,721
Indiana lakes and Lake Michigan
Boat Info
2000 Cruisers 3870
8.2 Mercs
Engines
85 Sea Ray Monaco 197
260hp Alpha 1
The anchor and roller hit the bow rollers or winch mainly when loading. It seems to be in part due to the extension length of the pulpit on my era 270. In most launches I can get it by without trouble, but worry about steeper ramps. The rollers are set right between the bow eye. I also have some difficulty cranking the winch when the pulpit is over it. Thanks for suggestions, MM
 
If I back the trailer in to deep my boat does the same. It's a catch 22 situation.... I'm spent if I load shallow and winch it all the way but the anchor clears nicely versus trailer in deep and float/crash it on. My anchor fouls on the winch also.
Should buy a electric winch really but the workout is good.
Does your winch wire have a straight pull with regards to the bow eye? IE parallel with the trailer.
 
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The anchor and roller hit the bow rollers or winch mainly when loading. It seems to be in part due to the extension length of the pulpit on my era 270. In most launches I can get it by without trouble, but worry about steeper ramps. The rollers are set right between the bow eye. I also have some difficulty cranking the winch when the pulpit is over it. Thanks for suggestions, MM

Do a search for my post on installing front bunks which contact the keel earlier and raises it to clear the bow roller. This was the best mod I have done to date as I can load or unload during low tide with no contact.
 
Thanks for the replies:

Yes the winch strap is parallel with the trailer frame and equal in height to the bow eye.

I will look up the thread on a real computer later; sounds promising.

MM
 
Scott, Yes that is what I feared, but didn't want to accept. Putting the anchor on deck doesn't change much clearance wise as the bottom roller is within an inch or so of the same drop as the anchor itself. Here is one of my out there ideas: have an aluminum box welded up in 1/4 material so the anchor could just slide over without catching. MM
 
Scott, Yes that is what I feared, but didn't want to accept. Putting the anchor on deck doesn't change much clearance wise as the bottom roller is within an inch or so of the same drop as the anchor itself. Here is one of my out there ideas: have an aluminum box welded up in 1/4 material so the anchor could just slide over without catching. MM
Look closely at what I did before you spend time experimenting! I spent several weeks experimenting before we came up with the bunk idea. I don't think the keel was supported properly for travel by the roller under the boat to start with. I will tell you this, I do power load. You have to here with our ramps and tide. No way I could winch up on most occasions. With my anchor off, it only gave me an inch or two which was not even close. Now, only when I back in far enough to let the boat go off the trailer by itself (wife holding lines on dock) does the bottom of the anchor just graze across the roller. When loading, I'm 4-5" above the roller:smt038 Plus the bunks spread the support for the keel. I would not have believed the front bunks would do the trick just by looking at them, but they work! I'm heading over today to look at a larger capacity GVW trailer and you can bet it will have front bunks! Just my luck to get my trailer perfect wit new actuator, bearings, bunks and carpeting and new tires and now find that I need a higher GVW trailer:huh::smt089
 
I had that problem at first. I lowered the winch as far as possible and cut off the remaining winch post and it's been fine since.
 
I thought I did...but they are there now:grin:

Thanks Donnie, How did you determine placement? My thinking is to place them against the hull and snug up, then raise them a 1/2 inch with the boat off and go from there. What material stock did you use? Where did you get the brackets? MM
 
After 4yrs of dealing with this problem,think I figured it out. (grin) Back trailer in untile stern floats, then pull forward, while watching stern, when stern sits back down on bunks pull forward another foot or two, depending on ramp steepness. Climb aboard and power off real slow, the anchor should clear the stand and bow rollers before the stern floats. Note water level on trail for proper placement of trailer to retrieve.
when ramp is real steep, I will back in far enough to allow bow to float above stand. Release bow strap very slowly, if keel is still on rest, not floating, boat will go fast backwards off trailer. Unless I am very familiar with ramp, I will put anchor on top, for extra space.
Nicky
 
After 4yrs of dealing with this problem,think I figured it out. (grin) Back trailer in untile stern floats, then pull forward, while watching stern, when stern sits back down on bunks pull forward another foot or two, depending on ramp steepness. Climb aboard and power off real slow, the anchor should clear the stand and bow rollers before the stern floats. Note water level on trail for proper placement of trailer to retrieve.
when ramp is real steep, I will back in far enough to allow bow to float above stand. Release bow strap very slowly, if keel is still on rest, not floating, boat will go fast backwards off trailer. Unless I am very familiar with ramp, I will put anchor on top, for extra space.
Nicky

Thanks for the suggestion. MM
 
So today I spent some time just laying under the trailer looking and pondering and a few things became apparent.

My trailer is oversize for my boat, it would hold up to a 310 or so. My bow stop is all the way back for the 270. It has a mount for an additional keel support forward of the one I use so on a longer vessel the bow would rise sooner giving the needed clearance. My boat seems well positioned for good support all around.

The fore keel is sinking until it gets to the v-block keel support, which measures out to be equal to the anchor hitting the bow stop roller and winch. I think I need to add keel support at the next cross beam back to change this.

My options seem to be to add bunks as FDM did in his photos, or add a roller. I'm leaning to adding the roller. Install would be simpler and it would give less resistance when winching the boat in. The roller should be self centering.

What other issues do I need to think about? MM
 
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Some photos.

How the boat sits on the trailer from before I bought it:

P1010564.jpg


The trailer:

P1010644.jpg


P1010643.jpg


P1010642.jpg


P1010640.jpg



The winch and rollers and straps were all replaced, this is how the PO rolled.

P1010505.jpg
 
First, this trailer set-up pulls like a dream, and I don't want to mess with that. I "think" that due to the extra size built into the length another bunk or roller needs to support the keel sooner or longer depending on loading or launching. I have little trouble launching, it slides down. My issue is cranking the winch and the pulpit overhead geting in the way. I also am nicking up my new winch.

If you look at pic 2, the keel support is a long way up. In pic 3 you can see the second keel support bracket for longer boats. In pic 4, if I put a roller at the fore most crossmember, that the main bunks attatch to, it should raise the bow 8 inches 5 feet back. Is that logical?

I think from looking at it the keel just sinks between the main bunks until it reaches the keel support then it raises.

Thanks, MM
 
NehalenniaProjectsPre-Trip7-12-081.jpg

Here's mine. I cut the winch post too and dropped the winch down to align with the eye properly. I had to reverse the wind on the strap and it clears well now. I know you guys with the 270DAs have the pulpit so you extend more but my plow style anchor hooks down so it's geometry seems to cause the same problem. I don't have any issues unloading and power loading now.
 
NehalenniaProjectsPre-Trip7-12-081.jpg

Here's mine. I cut the winch post too and dropped the winch down to align with the eye properly. I had to reverse the wind on the strap and it clears well now. I know you guys with the 270DAs have the pulpit so you extend more but my plow style anchor hooks down so it's geometry seems to cause the same problem. I don't have any issues unloading and power loading now.
Mine didn't get close to the winch stand, It struck the roller. If you look my keel roller and front bunks are as low as they will go and my bow roller is also as low as it will go. I would cut the post if needed but I like using it as a step. I tried everything, front bunks are the shiznit!!

d389601d.jpg


5f7a7cde.jpg


d796349b.jpg



Plus front bunks guide her in place no matter the current or the wind.
 
Here's mine. I cut the winch post too and dropped the winch down to align with the eye properly. I had to reverse the wind on the strap and it clears well now. I know you guys with the 270DAs have the pulpit so you extend more but my plow style anchor hooks down so it's geometry seems to cause the same problem. I don't have any issues unloading and power loading now.

Todd, Power loading is strictly prohibited at most launches I use. I prefer not to do it as well. MM
 
Todd, Power loading is strictly prohibited at most launches I use. I prefer not to do it as well. MM
If that's the case, I dont know how you will remedy that. In order to winch these beasts by hand and not rip out the eye you have to get the trailer deep euogh and that's where your problem is. Our ramps aren't long enough for that. Around here folks would consider you strange or a "rookie" trying to winch such a large boat...lol
 
Around here folks would consider you strange or a "rookie" trying to winch such a large boat...lol

Kinda funny, Chapmans seems to indicate it is rogue to power load. :smt043

I like not power loading. Safer for people, equipment, and does not harm the ramp. I do not seem to need a superlong-deep ramp to get deep enough to load. Why would someone think "rookie or strange" if a trailer is set in front of a vessel tied to the side peir, backed under in a deep set, boat is pulled forward to about 8 feet from the bow stop by bow cleat lines, and then winched on the rest of the way? I have seen people that could do 180's while power loading, most are not that good. Just watch the ramp. MM
 
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