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Discussion in 'Trailering' started by Larry Connally, Feb 17, 2021.
Magictilt will not give me info to “modify” my trailer. They say they will only share that info with their trailer dealers. I’m in Colorado and closest dealers listed are Texas and California and they wouldn’t have a plan for this trailer since they say it is 3’ longer than they say it should be for this boat.
Talked to boat dealership repair department and the boss and they are still saying the boat needs better support. I’ll be picking it up tomorrow and get some pics posted to get some guidance.
Thanks again for all your help
Here is what the trailer currently has for support basically two big beams and then the bow rest and a lower bow roller that the repair shop took off because they said it was doing damage
So I’m not finding magic tilt to be helpful at all Any guidance would be much appreciated. Pardon the wood pile
Hard to tell with your pics, but the main bunks look short. At least compared to mine.
The main bunks on our trailer go from the back of the boat up past the axles by about 4 feet or so.
I saw in your photo some bow supports down by the keel that I need to figure out how to do. How long is your boat?
I like Hawk would like to see better pictures but as far I can see that looks to be a very nice trailer. The left bunk maybe under stress as it looks like? it maybe leaning. Try and get some more pictures with some backed away from boat/trailer. Its just hard to comment with the information available. JC
Mine is 32' LOA, but officially a 29'. Definitely try to post up a better pic. Angles can do funny things to perspective.
I agree with JC3. That looks like a very nice trailer, but your port side bunk in the pic looks stressed.
All said I think this confirms what we suspected before. The trailer is more than capable for your boat and seems to be in fine condition. The bunks and supports need work, but that's considerably less money.
The starboard bunk is either bent or possibly even the timber inside the carpet has rotted. They are usually treated lumber but never know.
Start with contacting SeaRay and ask for a "blocking diagram" for the hull or a trailer diagram if they have one. It will show where the boat strong points are. Look for the sling lift points. Half way between the two slings should be the center of mass. You want that point just a little forward of the middle axle (to put about 1,500lb on the hitch)
At 11' 5" beam and 13,000 lb I would start reworking to something like this. The outer bunks are directly over the trailer main beams. That's only about six feet apart (the trailer is 8, to the outside of the fenders) The angle should match the dead rise at the stern specs say 17 degrees.
Hugh (Patrick) post is spot on! Good place to start. JC
All my smaller boats trailers including the road trailer I had built for my 310 Da. all had a main center bunker that ran the length of the keel that carried the weight of the boat. The outside bunkers were there to balance the boat on the trailer. Without center keel support I would think there would be a lot of outward pressure on the outside bunkers. Instead of replacing the trailer I would go to custom trailer shop and get their opinion. Here's a picture of my current trailer built by Ron's Trailers in Oregon Oh. it cost me roughly $ 7,000
Right above my main beams, there is the inlet to the generator cooling on starboard and on port is the fitting to the sewage discharge. But I can see a clear path on both sides of the keel to do some runners. the starboard bunk bracket on the back is bent out
The center point between the sling marker points is actually in front of the front axle
Here are a couple more pics from the front (standing back but trying to still see something)
I found a bracket and post setup online that I could run down the keel with some gator back covers. They would clamp to the crossbraces. They look like they would be like the ones I took (and attached to this post) pics of at the boat repair shop. They look pretty straightforward. What’s your thoughts on that plan?
I contacted sea ray and they just came back with, “put the hull support in line with the stringers that are on each side of the keel.”
No custom trailer builders in the vicinity so I’m looking at DIY options. The “clamp on post” that will go on the crossmembers looks like an option. What are your thoughts on that?
I would put the beams as far out as practical for stability and support.
And add a set under the inboard engine stringers per Sea Ray
Now your spreading the load over twice the area.
And then add the same fairly low on either side of the bow as well.
Two ways to do this.
Make a couple of templates, get some 4x8 plywood, cut it down to 2x8
Get some 2x4 likely 10 or 12 foot cut to length for stern to engine room bulkhead
make one template that matches the stern shape
and one that matches the shape at the forward engine room bulkhead (forward end of the engine stringers)
Use 2x4 to screw them together, one at keel, chines, top corners.
Now you have the stern shapeof the boat...
You are going to need a hard flat surface
So go to the ramp, put the boat in the water and start adjusting
I would suspect it will take most of a day...
sorry second way
Still need a big flat solid surface
Block the boat up, need a lot of big blocks
Jack up and block along the keel until the weight is just off the bunks
Block up the aft chines so it can not not tilt.
Now adjust the bunks