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Discussion in 'General Maintenance/Repair Questions' started by DWABoat, Jan 14, 2020.
What type of paint is best to block corrosion?
If you keep the boat in the water Interlux Trilux 33 is the best out drive paint. Its not pretty and you put it on thick.
If you have bare metal you would want to prep with Interlux Primocon Metal Primer.
Does the Trilux actually prevent corrosion or is it just an anti foul paint suitable for Aluminum Outdrive?
If it’s going on thick how can you tell if corrosion is happening underneath or not?
I wonder if Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing would work well on an aluminum outdrive. The aluminum is slightly more noble than zinc so therefore the zinc in the cold galvanizing should provide protection from corrosion. Many of use use on all our underwater stainless steel and bronze running gear with great success.
Three weeks ago I sanded the outdrive where the paint was flaking off and touched it up with Rustoleum 9300 primer, several coats. I then applied Rustoleum 2100 black enamel, sprayed 4 light coats with drying in between each coat. I will see if this application holds up to being in the water. My boat is dry stored when not in use so I get to see if it’s holding up with each launch.
There is not necessarily any paint type that will prevent corrosion - for outdrives either an anti fouling paint like Interlux or an enamel like Rustoleum is fine - depends on if you want the original shiny look or are trying to prevent growth. Corrosion starts to get a foothold anywhere the paint wears away (on the skeg) or starts to peal (along edges). Once bare aluminum is exposed, the corrosion will start. The speed and intensity will depend on things like SS vs aluminum propellers, the type of anodes and condition and if something like a Mercathode is on place and working. Periodic inspection and touch up are key - especially if the boat stays in the water. Most of the drives I see in my dry storage look new, even the BIII's that are 10+ yrs old.
I painted my Alpha I, which is dry stored, about 5yrs ago. Just did the lower half. I sanded the whole thing, then applied a Zinc Chromate primer and three coats of black Rustoleum. I expected it to last a couple of years, but now 5yrs later it still looks great. If I ever do it again I will probably use the Quicksilver Phantom Black as the Rustoleum is not a perfect match. The picture is after a year of use.
Any paint ia going to seal the metal from corrosion. My comments regarding trilux were if you were keeping the boat in the water. In that case you want the best antifouling paint combined with corrosion protection. You also want to make sure you are using the proper anode for the type of water you are in.
I am guessing this was for a B3, so with an aluminum housing you want to make sure the paint does not have any galvanic properties that would promote the corrosion.
This is why there is a border recommended for bottom painted boats around the B3 transom assembly.
Thanks for all the responses. Lots of good info.
I am asking for one of my workboats. We have dual Konrad 680 outdrives (similar to B3’s just bigger) with SS duo props in moving fresh silty water (MS River).
Lots of stainless.
We have a really good impressed current system now, but have some bald spots from before we had the system. We will go with a good base primer and the Merc Phantom acrylic.
+1 for Trilux 33 (liquid applied with a brush)
my 2007 B3 has been wet slipped 6 months/year in salt water since new.
It’s not going to win any beauty contests but no corrosion on the housing. I wouldn’t use anything different.
That’s what I used on my old boats outdrives and my kids outdrive.