Bow stopper position / boat position on trailer (tongue weight)

The trailer should be set with transom at even on the ends with bunk and bow in the tower. The bow tower takes the flexing out of the tongue. Straps at rear and chain lock on winch. Cargo load suggest 60 forward 40 rear but you are not loading cargo so trailer manufacturer and hitch limits wil decide your tongue weight. Your trailer looks like the axles need to be slid forward to adjust proper tongue weight. I have repositioned many axle set ups to gain or remove tongue weight. If the transom is hanging out past the bunks the hull damage can occur. If to far in then the axle/bow tower are incorrect. You can strap it down however you want but if the above mentioned are not correct you are in for trouble. Not my opinion but industry standards.
 
From your pictures it appears the boat is located correctly. I would slide the tower up to the bow and lock it down tight. Moving the boat back to reduce the tongue weight will put the transom off the bunks. (not good).

Reposition the axels so the load is being carried as evenly as possible cross all the axles. Use the trailer manufactures weight distribution and hitch maximums as your guide lines. If the tongue is bent then all bets are off. The trailer is already weak. As Woody suggested, enclose some picture so we can see the type of bend before giving any more recommendation.
 
Hahahaha. Anyone that tows a boat can look at the photo posted and clearly see the bent trailer.
That the boat is sitting to far forward on the trailer, and still not touching the bow stop.
That the bow stop cannot be adjusted to the boat due to the tounge and cross member in the incorrect position for his, too short boat! OR to long trailer.

I'll qualify my statements by saying I tow "many " miles each year. Back and forth to Florida, Charleston, Myrtle Beach, area lakes. I have consulted with EZ loader to have a custom trailer built to fit my 240da for the interstate towing I do. I had to purchase an overlength trailer that was cut to the proper length, and the axles adjusted to compensate for the length. (short boat). I had EZ loader do the math for the tounge weight which came in in the 7ish percent load, and I tow with a dually pickup.

Now, Mr. Hi Nhi is the type person (in my opinion) that is searching for that person that will tell him what he wants to hear. Maybe Woody you are that person. I know I have read in a different thread where Mr. Hi Nhi was asking for information and one of the "helpers" responded with the same concerns as we have. We chose to step away from him because he does not seem to accept feedback that he doesn't want to hear.

Good luck to the folks that wish to help him further. I hope he gets what he needs from someone that is alittle more patient than me.
 
Hai Nhi said:
Thanks everyone for the comments, all good ones even the ones I've already done and knew about. Chances for everyone to review.

I still haven't had a chance to fix my trailer jack yet so no weighing neither.

I noticed about the Trailer length, a bit too long. But I still want to find out for sure if 10-15% tongue weight is good, if not what's the right number.

I know some of us mentioned 5, some said 7%. But all I read from manuals and all said 10-15%. I supposed numbers from manuals probably backed by some research and what not.

With all due respect for everyone here. But if someone say "I've done it for years" or "a trailer shop guy said so", to me, I'm not sure that'd soothe me well enough to follow. Hehehe.

In another word, why shouldn't we follow 10-15% rule ? Just pondering!!!

I'll take some picture of what the current setup I have for now. Btw, I have 6 straps total. All 10,000 lbs rating. 4 in the back.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Here's the post that got him into trouble. If you read the thread he got his answer many different times. Never did he give any more information to help nor pictures for clairification. He did step on everyones toes by saying he doesn't trust anyones opinion, and certainly not a trailer manafacturers suggestions. So why not use 10-15% rule................go ahead.
 
Hai Ngi, is your trailer a 13,000 lb or above rated trailer? If not, then your decision on whether to continue is easy. It is even easier if the trailer is bent. (SCRAP THE TRAILER IF BENT). Woody's numbers are dead-on above, and might in fact be a bit light. My total weight was about 22,500-23,500 with my '05 280 and Ford F350. There is a thread on this board that gives the real-world numbers that validate what Woody writes. In short, the 280 can be much heavier than the factory dry-weight.

That being said, I trashed my jack with my 280 not because of the tongue-weight, but because I didn't chock my tires. In turn, the slight movement (forward/back and kicking to the sides) while unhooking from truck really was stressful on the jack. Hopefully I'll be able to answer your question as I replaced my jack with a 1,500 lb jack. (Same as the trailer manufacturer provided for custom 280 trailer). So... hopefully you are chocking your tires, as that could be the reason for jack failure.

Hope this helps.... and be careful. You have a beautiful boat, and she deserves a beautiful and sturdy throne to sit on. My recommendation would be to talk with a dealer, and more importantly your trailer manufacturer as the tongue-weight might differ from trailer to trailer depending on the setup, etc. If you need a yard trailer, then do as you must! But if you are trailering on the road, the 280 really requires a customized trailer or at least a professional setup and inspection.

Mike
 
Last edited:
Hai Nhi said:
Btw, I have 6 straps total. All 10,000 lbs rating. 4 in the back.
Click to expand...

I don't care if you have 50 straps, if they do not have proper leverage they are just ornaments and you will end up like this guy. A big cruiser on a trailer at 65 mph is just a rocket waiting to take off. Your straps are not properly leveraged.

0c46d6ff03d07a16aab8c30e62432418_zpsc79e3c32.jpg


Pic borrowed from tie down thread, but thought it pertinent here...

MM
 
islandhopper00 said:
Hahahaha. Anyone that tows a boat can look at the photo posted and clearly see the bent trailer.
That the boat is sitting to far forward on the trailer, and still not touching the bow stop.
That the bow stop cannot be adjusted to the boat due to the tounge and cross member in the incorrect position for his, too short boat! OR to long trailer.

I'll qualify my statements by saying I tow "many " miles each year. Back and forth to Florida, Charleston, Myrtle Beach, area lakes. I have consulted with EZ loader to have a custom trailer built to fit my 240da for the interstate towing I do. I had to purchase an overlength trailer that was cut to the proper length, and the axles adjusted to compensate for the length. (short boat). I had EZ loader do the math for the tounge weight which came in in the 7ish percent load, and I tow with a dually pickup.

Now, Mr. Hi Nhi is the type person (in my opinion) that is searching for that person that will tell him what he wants to hear. Maybe Woody you are that person. I know I have read in a different thread where Mr. Hi Nhi was asking for information and one of the "helpers" responded with the same concerns as we have. We chose to step away from him because he does not seem to accept feedback that he doesn't want to hear.

Good luck to the folks that wish to help him further. I hope he gets what he needs from someone that is alittle more patient than me.
Click to expand...
Why you harping on the boat not touching the bow stop...he has already made that adjustment and it is against the bow stop...the question is whether or not the boat is positioned for acceptable tongue weight range. What else do you suppose might be needed to determine that?
 
Island,
I can't tell if the frame is bent or there is a deflection in the picture aperture. That's why I asked for better pictures. The boat is setting correctly on the trailer as the transom and bunks are even at the rear as they should be. It appears that the axles are to far back.
I could not tell if the tower was already adjusted to the bow or not by the picture. The trailers I have set up are 7-10% with max weight at or below hitch max spec.

I don't have a dog in the fight so Nai can do what he likes.

I'm out.
 
islandhopper00 said:
Your trailer is to long for your boat. The weight of the boat needs to be carried by the axles, not the beams of the trailer....like in your set up. The frame rails can fold up, and since yours is starting to bend you need to be careful. I'm surprised your not complaining about your surge brakes not working correctly, or your ball getting damaged. You need to have a professional check your set up to see if they can adjust it to fit your boat. I'll be surprised if they don't try to sell you a proper fitting trailer.
Click to expand...

This was my first responce.

Woody, do you read posts before you insert your nose and and start defending someone. Jeeze man.
 
OldSkool said:
Island,
I can't tell if the frame is bent or there is a deflection in the picture aperture. That's why I asked for better pictures. The boat is setting correctly on the trailer as the transom and bunks are even at the rear as they should be. It appears that the axles are to far back.
I could not tell if the tower was already adjusted to the bow or not by the picture. The trailers I have set up are 7-10% with max weight at or below hitch max spec.

I don't have a dog in the fight so Nai can do what he likes.

I'm out.
Click to expand...

Bill modern trailers don't run the "I" beams to the transom. The bunks run past the end of the "I" beams, and the transom should sit at the end of the bunk. Because the boats transom is aligned with the "I" beam it clearly is to far forward thus putting the weight of the boat on the forward axle and forward beams of the trailer. That is a condition that should not exist. The weakest part of the trailer is the "v" area of the trailer. The weight of the boat or tounge weight pushes down on the beam and is actually trying to spread them apart. When they spread apart they actually start to twist. When an "I" beam twists it loses it ability to carry weight. The strength of an "I" beam is in the I configuration, not an H.
 
I would bet if Mr Hi Nhi pulls a string from the forward tire to the winch stand along the "I" beam there is 3-4 inches or more of deflection due to tounge weight. That friends where a trailer folds up when it fails. This pertains to aluminum trailers. Steel trailers do not suffer the same fate due to the increased strength of steel.
 
Agree with you on the I beam structure. I wish the pictures were clearer for me. I can't see if the beams have bowed or not. If you can than good catch. I will try to blow it up and look at it closer.
I will say that if I were seeking this information I would have included many pics to help get the best feed back.
 
Bill, I went back and read your post and you are correct....except! It's way easier to move bunks rather than axles. If Nhi moves his boat back to where it belongs on that trailer, the bow stop will not slide back far enough to touch the bow stop. Hence the trailer is to long for his boat.

You are correct saying if he moves the axles forward it will work, but then he actually shortened the trailer......and once again moving axles is not really a diy for the average person. There is geometry involved and I don’t have the knowledge for that. Hence my suggestion of contacting his local brand manafacturer to get involved.

Actually Bill what you suggest he do is exactly what I had to do to get a proper fit for my 240da.
 
MExcelsior said:
Hai Ngi, is your trailer a 13,000 lb or above rated trailer? If not, then your decision on whether to continue is easy. It is even easier if the trailer is bent. (SCRAP THE TRAILER IF BENT). Woody's numbers are dead-on above, and might in fact be a bit light. My total weight was about 22,500-23,500 with my '05 280 and Ford F350. There is a thread on this board that gives the real-world numbers that validate what Woody writes. In short, the 280 can be much heavier than the factory dry-weight.

That being said, I trashed my jack with my 280 not because of the tongue-weight, but because I didn't chock my tires. In turn, the slight movement (forward/back and kicking to the sides) while unhooking from truck really was stressful on the jack. Hopefully I'll be able to answer your question as I replaced my jack with a 1,500 lb jack. (Same as the trailer manufacturer provided for custom 280 trailer). So... hopefully you are chocking your tires, as that could be the reason for jack failure.

Hope this helps.... and be careful. You have a beautiful boat, and she deserves a beautiful and sturdy throne to sit on. My recommendation would be to talk with a dealer, and more importantly your trailer manufacturer as the tongue-weight might differ from trailer to trailer depending on the setup, etc. If you need a yard trailer, then do as you must! But if you are trailering on the road, the 280 really requires a customized trailer or at least a professional setup and inspection.

Mike
Click to expand...

Great advise Mike.
 
Island, I can definitely see how moving the bunks back would achieve a good fit to the trailer and bow tower. the added "length" would help distribute the tongue load better too.

I think we are good with the fix but will Hai buy it?
 
MonacoMike said:
I don't care if you have 50 straps, if they do not have proper leverage they are just ornaments and you will end up like this guy. A big cruiser on a trailer at 65 mph is just a rocket waiting to take off. Your straps are not properly leveraged.

0c46d6ff03d07a16aab8c30e62432418_zpsc79e3c32.jpg


Pic borrowed from tie down thread, but thought it pertinent here...

MM
Click to expand...

I agree Mike.......I'm seeing a trend here. Hahaha
 
OldSkool said:
Island, I can definitely see how moving the bunks back would achieve a good fit to the trailer and bow tower. the added "length" would help distribute the tongue load better too.

I think we are good with the fix but will Hai buy it?
Click to expand...

Yea, that's the question.

My interest and passion on this subject is safety. There are way to many mis adjusted trailers carrying boats dangerously. Innocent people get hurt because folks don't understand proper trailer loading.

Ever watch a guy struggle to get a boat loaded on a trailer? His trailer is not adjusted properly. My boat practicaly loads itself, and is a dream to trailer.
 
My trailer is actually a little hard to load. I would rather have dual drop axles so I don't need to back so deep into the water with the tow vehicle. Other than that I moved my axles ahead about 16 inches to get a manageable tongue weight. I used my Windstar for 5 season to pull 40 miles each way every weekend. She rides down the road at 70 like it's not even back there. Good brakes on the trailer are a must though. The Windstar has a 3500lbs capacity and I was a little bit more but she handled it with a pair of Gabriel Highjackers.
 
islandhopper00 said:
This was my first responce.

Woody, do you read posts before you insert your nose and and start defending someone. Jeeze man.
Click to expand...
Yes, always....you? Look, I'm defending no one. More than once my posts have included requests for pictures and pertinent info. That info is necessary for complete answers and recommendations specific to his rig...if we only knew what his rig was. He asked again why he shouldn't follow the 10-15%...the fact is maybe he could...but how would we know with out the missing info, like loaded trailer weight(I dug that up so that should help), tow vehicle, hitch type and ratings....but go ahead, explain it to him. Question for you, what is your opinion of this setup, is this trailer loaded wrong?View attachment 34280
 
Woody said:
Yes, always....you? Look, I'm defending no one. More than once my posts have included requests for pictures and pertinent info. That info is necessary for complete answers and recommendations specific to his rig...if we only knew what his rig was. He asked again why he shouldn't follow the 10-15%...the fact is maybe he could...but how would we know with out the missing info, like loaded trailer weight(I dug that up so that should help), tow vehicle, hitch type and ratings....but go ahead, explain it to him. Question for you, what is your opinion of this setup, is this trailer loaded wrong?View attachment 34280
Click to expand...

First we agree he hasn't helped himself, because he doesn't help the folks whom are trying to help him....and his responces are offensive to the ones trying to help. No one jumped on him, we just bowed out. At least I did till you rubbed my fur the wrong way.

My opinion of the pictured set up is it appears fine.......except the hitch height maybe low. Your set up is in the grass, hard to tell. Tripple axle trailers need to be as level as possible to keep the weight as centered on the axles as possible. Each axle needs to bear the same weight as can be managed, and the scrubbing action from sharp turns will kill the front and/or rear tires. Tire wear will be tell tale.

The difference between this set up and Nhi's, is dramatic. Notice how much boat is behind the rear axle. Notice the "V" of the trailer is following the bow line. This boat can be adjusted fore or aft, to give or take tounge load as necessary. The truck appears to be at least a 3/4 ton truck, and the tounge weight has the springs compressed nicely. I would say this set up could benefit from less tounge weight BUT it would depend on driver input. I would say this is set up for long hauling and would be very stable at highway speeds. Nice set up.

Be sure to stand that VHF antenna straight up when in the water, or Gary will bash you. haha (my attempt at humor).
 
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