Buying Replacement Trailer

G

gCartwright

New Member
Oct 17, 2014
19
Vancouver, BC
Boat Info
1991 225BR
Engines
7.4L
I'm looking for a replacement trailer for my 91 225BR. I was using an EZ Loader roller trailer for a short time but I need to replace it.
I found a 2009 Shoreland'r [FONT=&amp]SRV58TBB[/FONT] (bunk) at a boat dealer which I understand is made for the SeaRay. He says it came in with a SR 230 Select on it and the purchaser didn't require the trailer so it's been in his yard since. The hull shape on the 230 looks similar to mine so perhaps it would just need some slight adjusting.
My boat weighs about 5000lbs when loaded and this trailer is rated at 5800lbs

The trailer looks to be in good shape except for the hardware that has some rust.
Anything I should be weary of with a trailer that's been sitting for a number of years? Would the tires be suspect if it hasn't moved much in a while?


Thanks
 
Your boat is butt-heavy with that big block. The only thing I would really be worried about (set-up wise) would be ending up with too little tongue weight. The only reason I mention this is that, for the life of me, I can't remember if the axles are welded or bolted on. It may still be OK if they're welded - just as long as the boat ends up sitting in the right spot compared to the axles.

As far as the bunks, that shouldn't be a problem. The bunks are on pivoting heads so they'll conform to your hull, although they may need to be slid outboard or inboard to avoid strakes. There are other holes in the crossmembers for this purpose. If new ones need to be drilled, be sure to protect the new holes from corrosion.

I imagine the boat dealer can be going over all of this with you?

i wouldn't worry about any superficial rust on the hardware - that's perfectly normal to see that. What matters is the metal, underneath the rust.

Things that could need attention... tires, brakes, braking system (coupler, MC, etc). Less likely to have issues with bearings, although obviously should be checked. ShoreLand'r makes an excellent trailer and you'd likely be getting this at a considerable discount compared to what buying a new one would be (in large part due to the fact that it came to the dealer discounted, to begin with) - they tend to be one of the more expensive ones out there.. but also one of the better made trailers, too.
 
gCartwright said:
I'm looking for a replacement trailer for my 91 225BR. I was using an EZ Loader roller trailer for a short time but I need to replace it.
I found a 2009 Shoreland'r [FONT=&amp]SRV58TBB[/FONT] (bunk) at a boat dealer which I understand is made for the SeaRay. He says it came in with a SR 230 Select on it and the purchaser didn't require the trailer so it's been in his yard since. The hull shape on the 230 looks similar to mine so perhaps it would just need some slight adjusting.
My boat weighs about 5000lbs when loaded and this trailer is rated at 5800lbs

The trailer looks to be in good shape except for the hardware that has some rust.
Anything I should be weary of with a trailer that's been sitting for a number of years? Would the tires be suspect if it hasn't moved much in a while?


Thanks
Click to expand...

Check the internal integrity of the frame near and including the tongue. I had a fresh water only trailer with our 22 Pachanga, owned from new, that was only used a few times per year as we had a lift.
Kept it clean and well maintained not aware that a critter had nested deep inside the tongue. Pulling the boat at the end of a season the trailer buckled in that area. Fortunately it did not break. It had showed no external signs of the severe rusting. Something I now look at closely with any type of used trailer.
 
Thanks guys!

When I talked to the salesman over the phone he said they could set the new trailer up for a charge but I suppose this could be negotiated.
My problem is that my existing trailer has a broken roller support so I need some way to temporarily place something between the support and hull to make the 20 mile trip.

resize.jpg
 
Adjusting the position of the axles is not a big problem if they're bolted on. When you do it, make sure you have a scales to weight the tongue weight, and make sure the axles are straight when you put them back on. To do that, measure from a point near the front of the trailer (back of the winch stand??) to a spot on the axle mounting hardware where the axle crosses the main frame member. It needs to be the same distance on both sides. If you get that set correctly, just make sure the second axle is the same distance from the first one on both sides.


Also, make sure the bunks come all the way back to the transom. If they stop short you'll end up with a "hook" at the back end of the bottom that is caused by the transom being unsupported.
 
Anything is negotiable, but adjusting the trailer to fit a particular boat is a standard charge. It's "usually" an hour or two, unless something out of the ordinary is needed.

A 6" length of 2x4 or 4x4 (depending on thickness needed - or a 2x4 with plywood, etc) wedged in the proper spot and tied down (or ratchet strap) with the flat of the board against the hull will work. You can add a rag, but there's really no need if you attach it properly. Put the board on the high side of that U-bolt. Cut a shallow channel across the high side of the board (if using rope) at either end so the board rests flat against the hull. You might have to jack the boat up (from under the keel) a bit, first.

From that picture, if the rest of your trailer is in similar shape, it looks like it is in decent shape. Why not just repair the rollers and save some cash? Change to non-marking rollers while you're at it. Unless the trailer isn't rated properly or have enough rollers for the hull?
 
Lazy Daze said:
Anything is negotiable, but adjusting the trailer to fit a particular boat is a standard charge. It's "usually" an hour or two, unless something out of the ordinary is needed.

A 6" length of 2x4 or 4x4 (depending on thickness needed - or a 2x4 with plywood, etc) wedged in the proper spot and tied down (or ratchet strap) with the flat of the board against the hull will work. You can add a rag, but there's really no need if you attach it properly. Put the board on the high side of that U-bolt. Cut a shallow channel across the high side of the board (if using rope) at either end so the board rests flat against the hull. You might have to jack the boat up (from under the keel) a bit, first.

From that picture, if the rest of your trailer is in similar shape, it looks like it is in decent shape. Why not just repair the rollers and save some cash? Change to non-marking rollers while you're at it. Unless the trailer isn't rated properly or have enough rollers for the hull?
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the replies

The dealer I purchased the boat/trailer from in the fall used an under-rated trailer, they had it listed as a 5000 lbs capacity on paper, the plate information off the trailer could no longer be read. When I contacted EZ Loader to buy replacement parts I gave them the vin and it turns out to be a 4000 lbs capacity trailer perhaps explaining why the support broke as it only has 24 rollers.
The dealer is trying to take care of the situation but they are 200 mire away and I would just like them to buy there trailer back and I will find a replacement trailer locally.
 
Just a suggestion when buying a trailer to fit a certain weight. If you buy too light, the springs are going to be compressed all the time and they won't afford the protection they're supposed to. Because they're already compressed too much the boat will be jostled and jolted by bumps in the road that it normally would be protected from.

Similarly, if you buy too heavy a trailer the boat won't be able to compress the springs enough and it again won't get the protection it's supposed to get from the springs and will be jostled and jolted.

Tell the dealer what your boat weighs and listen to his recommendation on what weight capacity trailer to buy.
 
I ended up buying the 2009 Shoreland'r (5800 lbs capacity that had a 2009 230 Sea-Ray on it) from a local Sea-Ray dealer. It's never been registered and was only used as a yard trailer so it will come with a one year warranty and they will go over it and inspect it first. Price was under half of what a identical new trailer would have cost.
The deal is contingent on the boat fitting properly which shouldn't be a problem. The dealer will adjust the trailer for proper position and tongue weight. They will do the transfer next week in their yard with their lift.

I would appreciate comments on the following:

Another large well known Sea-Ray dealer that sold me the boat/trailer unit a few months ago has agreed to buy back the undersized trailer they suppied but I'm not happy with what they are offering.They're trying to tell me to sell it on Craigslist if I think it's worth more. I checked my records again and they wrote it up as a 6000lb capacity and it turned out to be 4000lb (plate could not be read, EZloader gave me the build sheet) The boat loaded is just over 5000lbs.

This trailer has just 24 rollers one of which has already snapped off so I'm concerned about the hull being deformed at the support area's. I'm going to have the hull inspected by this other dealership and to also do an assesment of the trailer so I have some recourse if things get ugly.
 
Last edited:
gCartwright said:
I ended up buying the 2009 Shoreland'r (5800 lbs capacity that had a 2009 230 Sea-Ray on it) from a local Sea-Ray dealer. It's never been registered and was only used as a yard trailer so it will come with a one year warranty and they will go over it and inspect it first. Price was under half of what a identical new trailer would have cost.
The deal is contingent on the boat fitting properly which shouldn't be a problem. The dealer will adjust the trailer for proper position and tongue weight. They will do the transfer next week in their yard with their lift.

I would appreciate comments on the following:

Another large well known Sea-Ray dealer that sold me the boat/trailer unit a few months ago has agreed to buy back the undersized trailer they suppied but I'm not happy with what they are offering.They're trying to tell me to sell it on Craigslist if I think it's worth more. I checked my records again and they wrote it up as a 6000lb capacity and it turned out to be 4000lb (plate could not be read, EZloader gave me the build sheet) The boat loaded is just over 5000lbs.

This trailer has just 24 rollers one of which has already snapped off so I'm concerned about the hull being deformed at the support area's. I'm going to have the hull inspected by this other dealership and to also do an assesment of the trailer so I have some recourse if things get ugly.
Click to expand...
Have your lawyer send them a letter suggesting they buy it back at the same price they charged you. Given the facts as you state them I think the letter would change the dealers attitude.
 
Woody said:
Have your lawyer send them a letter suggesting they buy it back at the same price they charged you. Given the facts as you state them I think the letter would change the dealers attitude.
Click to expand...

The boat/trailer was sold as a package so I don't have a value for the trailer alone. The price they are offering me to buy back just the trailer is lower than similar models I have found online. But mostly I'm p*ssed about this whole ordeal and want them to compensate me. I was not expecting to have to purchase a replacement trailer for one that I was told was suitable for the boat.
 
Last edited:
Why are they only offering compensation for a 4000 capacity trailer when they sold you a so called 6000 and am sure was priced accordingly? It's too bad they didn't step up to the plate and do a better job of trying to make their customer happy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,143
Messages
1,427,171
Members
61,056
Latest member
Rafael Saraiva
Back
Top