Come on gurus, I need your wisdom (asap)

While your all waiting for the rest of this episode, here's something to hold you over for the weekend: You don't have to thank me.
upload_2022-1-14_16-48-28.jpeg
 
Great replys, thanks.
Update. I did replace the lower shift cable. Honestly, the bellows and hoses looked good so I didn't replace them (yet). I'm taking the weekend off to purge my brain and prepare for a battle with that big ass motor in that small hole. I did raise the boat all the way out of the water and filled the bilge as high as I dared without endangering the motor. I didn't have any water dripping out. Hmmm?
To be continued.
Anxiously awaiting reports back after you've run in on the hard with the muffs attached. My money's on the raw water pump.
 
Not to be confused with last summer overheating problem…
In August 2020 I ran into very shallow mud leaving the tiki bar. Hey, it wasn’t the alcohol, the wind caught me, dont judge me; had same symptoms.
Took to mechanics at marina next door. They flushed the outdrive intakes, pulled the raw water impeller, flushed the intake hoses, replaced impeller; all good after that. Bravo 1 with engine mount pump.
 
It's not leaking bad. Your auto bilge pump works fine. Why worry? Those old men of war always had some water in the well for the crew to pump. Get one of those cylindrical hand pumps that you push and pull. Eventually the cause will turn up or the problem will go away or something. Enjoy your boat.
 
It's not leaking bad. Your auto bilge pump works fine. Why worry?
Hold on; where does he say it's not leaking badly? Based on his concern, I'd bet that it didn't leak before this happened, so I'd say it's a legitimate concern. Do you also continue to drive on a tire with low air pressure, hoping it'll just "go away"?
 
Truth is, I don't know that it was or wasn't leaking. I've only had the boat in the water for maybe a half hour. Bilge spits a pint or two every 5 minutes. I gotta believe it's on the intake side of the raw water pump but I can't see how that was ever under pressure.
 
My first car was a TR-3A. We know how to live with problems. Isolate the battery running the bilge pump and check its charge (if afloat) after a week. Watch play-offs.
 
It's not leaking bad. Your auto bilge pump works fine. Why worry? Those old men of war always had some water in the well for the crew to pump. Get one of those cylindrical hand pumps that you push and pull. Eventually the cause will turn up or the problem will go away or something. Enjoy your boat.
Can I get a quick recap on how to “ignore” ??
 
I've removed and rebuilt those raw water pumps on my last boat and have never experienced much in the way of external water leaks even when the pump's bearing was shot. It would produce a bit of sprinkling while running but only about a drip every 5 seconds if that once the engine is stopped. Overheating would probably be from a lack of seawater to the heat exchanger, most likely due to your raw water pump not providing adequate water pressure to the engine BUT I don't see that causing a significant leak on your raw water intake side of things.

If your pump seems to be ok keep in mind that Bravo Drives provide cooling water via the outdrive intakes, up through the drive, through a rubber hose which terminates at a fitting on the outdrive's transom assembly. Another fitting on the inside of the transom allows a hose to be attached which then provides water to the raw water pump. It is possible that the hose terminating at the fitting on the transom assembly may have become restricted. Something commonly termed as "Bravo-itis". Here's a photo (post #27 & 28)

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/bravo-3-cooling-water-pressure-question.87302/page-2

This type of restriction may explain your overheat (if your pump looks ok), but it doesn't explain your water leak. For that you may need to use an endoscope camera (a very hand tool) while the engine is running and leaking. It should be short work to track down where a leak of that magnitude is coming from and the endoscopes have a long, thin, flexible wand with a light and camera on the end so you don't have to reach in with your arm as much. You can watch for the leak with the handheld screen and even record the action to show us or your mechanic. We're cheaper than your mechanic.
 
I've removed and rebuilt those raw water pumps on my last boat and have never experienced much in the way of external water leaks even when the pump's bearing was shot. It would produce a bit of sprinkling while running but only about a drip every 5 seconds if that once the engine is stopped. Overheating would probably be from a lack of seawater to the heat exchanger, most likely due to your raw water pump not providing adequate water pressure to the engine BUT I don't see that causing a significant leak on your raw water intake side of things.

If your pump seems to be ok keep in mind that Bravo Drives provide cooling water via the outdrive intakes, up through the drive, through a rubber hose which terminates at a fitting on the outdrive's transom assembly. Another fitting on the inside of the transom allows a hose to be attached which then provides water to the raw water pump. It is possible that the hose terminating at the fitting on the transom assembly may have become restricted. Something commonly termed as "Bravo-itis". Here's a photo (post #27 & 28)

http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/bravo-3-cooling-water-pressure-question.87302/page-2

This type of restriction may explain your overheat (if your pump looks ok), but it doesn't explain your water leak. For that you may need to use an endoscope camera (a very hand tool) while the engine is running and leaking. It should be short work to track down where a leak of that magnitude is coming from and the endoscopes have a long, thin, flexible wand with a light and camera on the end so you don't have to reach in with your arm as much. You can watch for the leak with the handheld screen and even record the action to show us or your mechanic. We're cheaper than your mechanic.
How did you get the picture of mine last summer?
8C8BD648-C2D8-4D38-8031-29EAF818799E.png
 
How did you get the picture of mine last summer?
View attachment 118546

Nothing is secret on the net!

I just bought a boat with twin Bravo III's and the previous owner installed twin thru hull pickups with Groco service adaptors. This bypasses the complex and narrow water route from the outdrive and allows better control of water supply when running the engine on the hard via their quick release adaptor that can easily be connected to a hose. It can also be used in a dire emergency as a "crash pump" using the engine's water pump to drain water from the bilge by opening the quick release adaptor. This eliminates the need to replace the water hose on the outside of the drive since the interior fitting on the inside of the transom can be sealed. I plan on removing the hose completely to allow water to flow naturally from the outdrive intakes to the top of the unit while running which will also simplify the area surrounding the drive bellows.

Here's the Groco Adapters. Great idea.

https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/accessories/ssc-series-service-adaptor
 

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