Drive oil leaked

Hai Nhi

Member
Feb 3, 2013
184
Hayward, CA
Boat Info
280DA, triple axle aluminum, 12 F350 CCLB 6.7 KR; 06 Yamaha Jetski Cruiser (50 Yr Anniversary Ver)
Engines
T4.3L 220HP w/Alpha I Drives Gen II
I see oil on the engine room floor. My port side small drive oil monitor bottle was almost empty last time I took her out on a first test drive. I filled it up again with gear oil, 70-90 wt per previous owner. Ran her for about 15-20 mins.

I just checked today, and it's now only half full, more oil on the floor.

How do I check for leaks.

Thanks.
 
Follow the drips - where is it leaking from/out of?

Unless I'm mistaken (which I could be as I really haven't checked into this), there really isn't any "standard" for marine gear oil. Because of that, I think you need to be extra careful if you don't use the Merc stuff. That being said, you have an Alpha which "can" use the normal Merc (dino) gear oil - which is 80/90w. However, it's best to use the Merc Hi-perf stuff which is synthetic and can cope with some water intrusion. Bravo's MUST use the synthetic.
 
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I will trace the leak later. Have an exam today :D.

Hope it's just some minor repair.
 
I will trace the leak later. Have an exam today :D.

Hope it's just some minor repair.

There is nothing major as far as the outdrive gear oil located in the ER; just the reservoir and the fill tubing as others have mentioned. Don't sweat this one! But it may be hard to trace, find and replace... :smt001
 
There is nothing major as far as the outdrive gear oil located in the ER; just the reservoir and the fill tubing as others have mentioned. Don't sweat this one! But it may be hard to trace, find and replace... :smt001
:thumbsup: That's good to hear. Thanks for comforting. :)

I just got my exam taken and the result might be good (wont know till 10 days). So I feel even better reading your message :)

we all need more positive things happen in life. Hehehe

Good day everyone.
 
Check the cap there were some issues with the caps not venting and the reservoir bottles cracking. After a run or while your under way see if the bottle is expanding if so change the cap or even the whole reservoir.
Rob
 
Check the cap there were some issues with the caps not venting and the reservoir bottles cracking. After a run or while your under way see if the bottle is expanding if so change the cap or even the whole reservoir.
Rob

Can I test this at home?
 
I doubt it. The expansion is caused by the drive oil heating up, which only happens when you are spinning the prop. You pretty much have to be underway to see it, unless you have a large test tub you can immerse the outdrive in and run for an extended period. Personally, I wouldn't consider trying it at home.
 
I experienced this same leak earlier in the year. The culprit was the plastic elbow joint in the transom wall that fed the resevoir tube to the outdrive. The part itself is $10, the problem is removal and re installation. I have an Axius system which complicated things, but the bottom line is the elbow joint is difficult to see let alone get your hands on. It can be done, but it's a frustrating job.
Peter
 
I experienced this same leak earlier in the year. The culprit was the plastic elbow joint in the transom wall that fed the resevoir tube to the outdrive. The part itself is $10, the problem is removal and re installation. I have an Axius system which complicated things, but the bottom line is the elbow joint is difficult to see let alone get your hands on. It can be done, but it's a frustrating job.
Peter
Are you talking about the trim manifold that's mounted at the transom? I had a leak there as well and MM replaced it this year. A couple hundred dollars I believe.
 
No, this piece is a black plastic elbow joint which the tube from the gear lube resevoir connects on one end and the other end of the elbow connects to the rear transom wall which leads to the gimbal housing and eventually to the outdrive. The joint is known for cracking and then the lube leaks out. Easiest way to tell is to determine where the leak is coming from. In my case it was literally flowing down the transom wall and ending up under the rear of the engines. As I said earlier, this piece is very difficult to access. I could not even see the piece let alone get my hands on it. My mechanic was familiar with it and was able to reach it without taking anything apart. The joint has a moving piece on it which must be engaged to get it to release and then again must be pushed to re-install.
 
No, this piece is a black plastic elbow joint which the tube from the gear lube resevoir connects on one end and the other end of the elbow connects to the rear transom wall which leads to the gimbal housing and eventually to the outdrive. The joint is known for cracking and then the lube leaks out. Easiest way to tell is to determine where the leak is coming from. In my case it was literally flowing down the transom wall and ending up under the rear of the engines. As I said earlier, this piece is very difficult to access. I could not even see the piece let alone get my hands on it. My mechanic was familiar with it and was able to reach it without taking anything apart. The joint has a moving piece on it which must be engaged to get it to release and then again must be pushed to re-install.
 
Is this black plastic elbow the same on
Most sundancer I have a 2003 280

How could I locate the part number

Thank you
 
22-861150T02 is the gimbal side fitting. 22-861163 is the inside fitting
 
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Thank you very much I just ordered it now I have to find some one to put it in lol
Thanks
again
 
No, this piece is a black plastic elbow joint which the tube from the gear lube resevoir connects on one end and the other end of the elbow connects to the rear transom wall which leads to the gimbal housing and eventually to the outdrive. The joint is known for cracking and then the lube leaks out. Easiest way to tell is to determine where the leak is coming from. In my case it was literally flowing down the transom wall and ending up under the rear of the engines. As I said earlier, this piece is very difficult to access. I could not even see the piece let alone get my hands on it. My mechanic was familiar with it and was able to reach it without taking anything apart. The joint has a moving piece on it which must be engaged to get it to release and then again must be pushed to re-install.

I just so happened to have my engine out and took a couple of photos to more easily visualize where this part is for this thread. Seemed appropriate :)

The hole you see there is where the gimbal bearing would be and where the sterndrive driveshaft comes in. You can also see an engine mount there for reference. Now in this photo, this fitting is the older style. But the new one is in the spot and has the same idea. It just has a quick connect plastic fitting instead of a brass fitting.

It IS possible to change this without removing the engine, but it is very (very) tight behind the engine to access it.

Good luck,

Tom
 

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