Dual Shore Power Outlets?

[Sorrento 25]

I have a very inconveniently located shore power outlet on the port side that is inaccessible from the cabin or deck. Basically you have to balance on the 3" walk-around adjacent to the windshield and try to connect the cable and screw on the cross-threading nut at your ankles.

Would there be any problem with wiring another on the other side of the boat for the convenience of two - one on the dock side no matter which side the dock is on?

What about a weatherproof 15-amp connector on the transom for driveway use so the shore power cord can remain stowed and a regular extension cord can be used? ...Since I'll be routing a cable around the back anyway.

 

[AWBoater]

You mentioned a 15A service. There may be some safty issues here, depending on how you intend to wire everything up.

Shorepower inlets are normally 30A or 50A, and typically must have a circuit breaker located within a couple of feet of the inlet. If you added a shorepower inlet, you would have to likely add a dual breaker (hot and neutral) as well.

For safety purposes, you may also have to consider a "lockout" breaker on the main panel whereby only one shorepower inlet can be energized at any one time. Otherwise, when you power the boat from one of the inlets, the other inlet will also be energized.

A check with the recommended boat wiring standards is in order before starting this project.

Since there are some safety issues here, you really need to familiarize yourself with boat wiring standards or hire a competent marine electrician to do the job for you.

At any rate, I think you may find that adding this feature to your boat - and maintaining a safe boat in accordance with recommended practices - may not be economical.

 

[wkearney99]

Not economical? The outlets are pretty inexpensive, as is the wire. Connecting it would be pretty simple too. The hardest part being the hassle of running the wire, both from an accessibility and a safety standpoint. If you're not doing this yourself the labor for running the wire would be the most expensive part.

Since boats move around, there's a lot of vibration. This means you really have to make sure all wiring is securely attached, both at the connectors and were ever it runs. You have to use proper terminals on the ends of the wire. As well as properly supporting the wire along the way.

I wouldn't go using a regular outlet. Stick with marine-grade outlets. Just get an adapter that lets you use a standard 110v cord when on the trailer. Marine outlets have a locking action on the spades themselves, along with the threaded collar. A regular outlet doesn't and you risk the danger of a line simply falling out of the connector into water. Granted, not much of a risk on the trailer in the driveway at home. But then you introduce the chance of using the wrong wire when in the water at some point in the future. Best to avoid the chance of that happening at all by sticking with the marine connectors.

 

[MLauman]

I agree with AWBoater. To do this SAFELY and CORRECTLY would require a method of locking out one of the two outlets. This means either a rotary selector or lockout-capable circuit breakers. You might already have this capability IF your boat is wired for a genset and you do not have one.

It is very important to have a mechanism to select the input source because both inlets are male and you could end up with HOT prongs in the unused inlet. This is not only very dangerous (especially in a wet marine environment), but also violates potentially several applicable codes.

'Expensive' is a relative term, but I would expect the proper parts for this project to run at least $200-$300. If you have a genset - possibly more.

edit: Mods - this prolly belongs in 'Electrical Stuff' forum.

 

[Sorrento 25]

Very good info that seems obvious now but I didn't consider it before. A rotary selector before the main shore power breaker seems to be the simplest solution. I'll try to find one. Thanks!

 

[J Levine]

This is a mod that has been done on a number of larger boats like mine, that also have the shore power connectors in a similar location on the side of the deck. I have seen them relocated to the transom storage locker which is much more convient especially in a slip where you tie the boat at the stern. One thing that you can do is disconnect and/or remove the original outlets to avoid the trouble the lock out breaker. I have considered the same thing a few times my self.

 

[estebanj]

Rather than add a 2nd (and deal with the complexities involved), I would relocate the existing one to the transom or better location.

The existing one you can leave as is (cables disconnected/moved from inside) or install some other type of inlet. Cable or phone for example.

Esteban