electronic decisions

dvx216

Well-Known Member
GOLD Sponsor
Feb 1, 2012
2,695
Catawaba Island/Orrville,Oh.
Boat Info
340 Sundancer 2001
Engines
8.1s 370 v drv.
So now that I got the Garmin 1042xsv and radar installed I directed my attention to the plus 20 yr. old Raymarine tridata. Screen is okay depth works but no speed or temp. Now I've been down this road before. Thinking it's just the transducer to find out it was the tridata itself. A new st50i tridata is somewhere around $550 to $600. Once I buy it I still have to adapt it to my Garmin. So I decided to go with a brass Furuno Airmar dts810msf that only cost $360 and a NMEA 2000 starter kit from amazon for $54. I'll leave the old tridata in the middle of my dash for now because the depth is still working.
 
So now that I got the Garmin 1042xsv and radar installed I directed my attention to the plus 20 yr. old Raymarine tridata. Screen is okay depth works but no speed or temp. Now I've been down this road before. Thinking it's just the transducer to find out it was the tridata itself. A new st50i tridata is somewhere around $550 to $600. Once I buy it I still have to adapt it to my Garmin. So I decided to go with a brass Furuno Airmar dts810msf that only cost $360 and a NMEA 2000 starter kit from amazon for $54. I'll leave the old tridata in the middle of my dash for now because the depth is still working.
Well most of what you posted here is Greek to me. We bought a 93 330 that has a Raytheon radar and an old chart plotter that I’m guessing is the same age as the boat. The old analog screen is mounted right on the top of the dash in the way of everything but easy to remove. So guess we are wanting to do the same thing you’re in the process of doing. Will we have to replace all the wiring and hook ups as well?
 
So now that I got the Garmin 1042xsv and radar installed I directed my attention to the plus 20 yr. old Raymarine tridata. Screen is okay depth works but no speed or temp. Now I've been down this road before. Thinking it's just the transducer to find out it was the tridata itself. A new st50i tridata is somewhere around $550 to $600. Once I buy it I still have to adapt it to my Garmin. So I decided to go with a brass Furuno Airmar dts810msf that only cost $360 and a NMEA 2000 starter kit from amazon for $54. I'll leave the old tridata in the middle of my dash for now because the depth is still working.

Why not eliminate the tridata entirely? Add a Garmin transducer and get speed, temp and depth from your 1042. Seems like that should cost a whole lot less than the new Furuno unit? And it would help keep you in a single brand of equipment.

Just spit balling...
 
So now that I got the Garmin 1042xsv and radar installed I directed my attention to the plus 20 yr. old Raymarine tridata. Screen is okay depth works but no speed or temp. Now I've been down this road before. Thinking it's just the transducer to find out it was the tridata itself. A new st50i tridata is somewhere around $550 to $600. Once I buy it I still have to adapt it to my Garmin. So I decided to go with a brass Furuno Airmar dts810msf that only cost $360 and a NMEA 2000 starter kit from amazon for $54. I'll leave the old tridata in the middle of my dash for now because the depth is still working.

The Garmin autopilot will fit in the same hole the tridata came out of.........just saying! It is easy to spend someone else's money!
 
Well most of what you posted here is Greek to me. We bought a 93 330 that has a Raytheon radar and an old chart plotter that I’m guessing is the same age as the boat. The old analog screen is mounted right on the top of the dash in the way of everything but easy to remove. So guess we are wanting to do the same thing you’re in the process of doing. Will we have to replace all the wiring and hook ups as well?
Raymarine uses a system called Sea Talk where pretty much everyone else has gone to nmea 2000 except them. But you can get a nmea 2000 start kit for under a hundred dollars.
 
Why not eliminate the tridata entirely? Add a Garmin transducer and get speed, temp and depth from your 1042. Seems like that should cost a whole lot less than the new Furuno unit? And it would help keep you in a single brand of equipment.

Just spit balling...
As long as it's reading depth I'll leave it the new dts 810 with send info to Garmin 1042 xsv mdf
 
Raymarine uses a system called Sea Talk where pretty much everyone else has gone to nmea 2000 except them. But you can get a nmea 2000 start kit for under a hundred dollars.

I believe these are equivalents in RM terms (maybe just a different connector that can be adapted):

Seatalk = NMEA0183
SeatalkNG = NMEA2000

The newer NG on Axioms is plug-in compatible on most of their newer equipment.

-Kevin
 
I went with this guy:

Garmin Airmar Smart Sensor Depth & temperature 20 Degree Tilted NMEA 2000 DT800
SKU: GAR-010-11105-00

From BOE Marine. I’ve put it in the same thru hull location as my previous transducer and it simply has a NMEA 2000 drop cable coming off of it, which I added to my N2K network. Did this over the winter so the only thing I could verify was the temp sensor reading (depth requires the sensor to be in water). I went with the dt800 because it reads deeper and I was worried about having to fuss with the transducer because of fouling. Speed-over-ground from my Garmin GPSMAP is fine with me. The 20 degree tilt was to offset my dead rise where the transducer is located.
 
So now that I got the Garmin 1042xsv and radar installed I directed my attention to the plus 20 yr. old Raymarine tridata. Screen is okay depth works but no speed or temp. Now I've been down this road before. Thinking it's just the transducer to find out it was the tridata itself. A new st50i tridata is somewhere around $550 to $600. Once I buy it I still have to adapt it to my Garmin. So I decided to go with a brass Furuno Airmar dts810msf that only cost $360 and a NMEA 2000 starter kit from amazon for $54. I'll leave the old tridata in the middle of my dash for now because the depth is still working.
I'm in the same boat so to speak. So once you go with the DTS810 you can add a Garmin GMI 20 to act lik the tridata, and pull a bunch of NEMA stuff into it as well.

I like the tridata setup because I find the depth reading on my chartplotters a bit small for these old eyes.
 
I believe these are equivalents in RM terms (maybe just a different connector that can be adapted):

Seatalk = NMEA0183
SeatalkNG = NMEA2000

The newer NG on Axioms is plug-in compatible on most of their newer equipment.

-Kevin
I'm new to modern marine electronics, but Raymarine has some great videos, and I found some other excellent content to get me up to speed.
SeatalkNG is NMEA2000 as noted, the only difference is the connectors. Oddly enough the Axiom comes with a DeviceNet connector, not STNG. Huh?
Raymarine has 5 connector Tees with a Seatalk (original) port built in so you can connect any existing Raymarine devices using Seatalk (NMEA0183) directly to the NMEA2000 backbone and anything on the backbone can consume the data.
I'm adding the Axiom 9 and 2 Fox Marine engine interfaces (also Device Net) on our 370AC, and can delay upgrading the rest till I recover from 'new' boat pocket shock. Our last boat had a GPS, only cause I added it. I'm sure gonna to miss the simplicity of that boat, but the SR is an upgrade to say the least!
 
I'm new to modern marine electronics, but Raymarine has some great videos, and I found some other excellent content to get me up to speed.
SeatalkNG is NMEA2000 as noted, the only difference is the connectors. Oddly enough the Axiom comes with a DeviceNet connector, not STNG. Huh?
Raymarine has 5 connector Tees with a Seatalk (original) port built in so you can connect any existing Raymarine devices using Seatalk (NMEA0183) directly to the NMEA2000 backbone and anything on the backbone can consume the data.
I'm adding the Axiom 9 and 2 Fox Marine engine interfaces (also Device Net) on our 370AC, and can delay upgrading the rest till I recover from 'new' boat pocket shock. Our last boat had a GPS, only cause I added it. I'm sure gonna to miss the simplicity of that boat, but the SR is an upgrade to say the least!

Yep, I have a two Axioms in my config networked (plus the Quantum) and one connected to the N2K. All data is shared on the highspeed network.

-Kevin
 
Just so everyone understands, Seatalk is not NMEA0183 and SeatalkNG supports NMEA 2000.

NMEA 0183 is primarily nav data and Seatalk has extended properties and you can not just connect Seatalk to NMEA0183 without a converter, and the converter is not just to change the connector. But most of the Seatalk is lost on 0183 and why most converters will convert Seatalk to NMEA2000. SeatalkNG proper, has 6 wires instead of the N2K standard 5. The 6th wire is a Seatalk wire for other Raymarine devices. That said SeatalkNG can be directly connected to NMEA2000 with just a conversion cable or connector. But the Seatalk data will be lost. It is best to use a Seatalk/SeatalkNG converter to bridge to NMEA 2000 and some of the Seatalk data will be converted as well.

The above is why I do not like Raymarine equipment, and the only reason as they make some really nice gear.

https://raymarine.custhelp.com/app/...pinout-for-seatalkng-spur-and-backbone-cables

https://forum.raymarine.com/showthread.php?tid=7104

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/raymarine-seatalk-and-nmea0183-wiring.90194/
 
So now that I got the Garmin 1042xsv and radar installed I directed my attention to the plus 20 yr. old Raymarine tridata. Screen is okay depth works but no speed or temp. Now I've been down this road before. Thinking it's just the transducer to find out it was the tridata itself. A new st50i tridata is somewhere around $550 to $600. Once I buy it I still have to adapt it to my Garmin. So I decided to go with a brass Furuno Airmar dts810msf that only cost $360 and a NMEA 2000 starter kit from amazon for $54. I'll leave the old tridata in the middle of my dash for now because the depth is still working.

Since you've done a nice job and updated everything, are you going to redo the dash panels? If so, that's the time you have to make a decision about the display. The problem with the i50 is it is still setup for the analog transducers, so really not the right piece of equipment (its old technology). It would be if you're analog transducer was still installed, but once your using the DST810...no way.

Since you've gone N2K with the transducer, you might as well go all in on the display. For $500-$600 you can add a multifunction instrument display like the GMI20 that give you a lot more bang for you $$$. The other option is something like a Maretron DSM410 for about the same $$$. Here's a good write up about this subject

https://panbo.com/dedicated-depth-display-n2k-best-way/

While the multi-function instrument displays are very nice, I miss having a dedicated depth display at the helm. That is, I want a BIG BOLD depth display right smack in front of me!! The MFD's can display all this, but it tends to get lost in all the other info on the screen.
 
To add to @dtfeld Daves point, The 1042 supports data boxes and data bars. Both of these can be used to display any N2K data point or device of the GMN in the boxes. The GMI20 is a great 4" display that can display much of the N2K network in many screen formats that are scroll-able.
 
Since you've done a nice job and updated everything, are you going to redo the dash panels? If so, that's the time you have to make a decision about the display. The problem with the i50 is it is still setup for the analog transducers, so really not the right piece of equipment (its old technology). It would be if you're analog transducer was still installed, but once your using the DST810...no way.

Since you've gone N2K with the transducer, you might as well go all in on the display. For $500-$600 you can add a multifunction instrument display like the GMI20 that give you a lot more bang for you $$$. The other option is something like a Maretron DSM410 for about the same $$$. Here's a good write up about this subject

https://panbo.com/dedicated-depth-display-n2k-best-way/

While the multi-function instrument displays are very nice, I miss having a dedicated depth display at the helm. That is, I want a BIG BOLD depth display right smack in front of me!! The MFD's can display all this, but it tends to get lost in all the other info on the screen.
I'll have to check into that thank you. Currently the old tridata is still showing depth so I plan on leaving it until it stops working.
 
So now that I got the Garmin 1042xsv and radar installed I directed my attention to the plus 20 yr. old Raymarine tridata. Screen is okay depth works but no speed or temp. Now I've been down this road before. Thinking it's just the transducer to find out it was the tridata itself. A new st50i tridata is somewhere around $550 to $600. Once I buy it I still have to adapt it to my Garmin. So I decided to go with a brass Furuno Airmar dts810msf that only cost $360 and a NMEA 2000 starter kit from amazon for $54. I'll leave the old tridata in the middle of my dash for now because the depth is still working.
If you decide to part with it, if it is a "Raydata" unit... I will take it...
 
So now that I got the Garmin 1042xsv and radar installed I directed my attention to the plus 20 yr. old Raymarine tridata. Screen is okay depth works but no speed or temp. Now I've been down this road before. Thinking it's just the transducer to find out it was the tridata itself. A new st50i tridata is somewhere around $550 to $600. Once I buy it I still have to adapt it to my Garmin. So I decided to go with a brass Furuno Airmar dts810msf that only cost $360 and a NMEA 2000 starter kit from amazon for $54. I'll leave the old tridata in the middle of my dash for now because the depth is still working.

Have the Same boat as you up in Sandusky. Starting in Late 2021 through last summer I updated most all of the electronics from the factory Raymarine. Im a in IT so fiddling with electronics is an obsession of mine. Boat had tridata and ST60+ auotpilot but previous owner sold off chart plotter and radar and had some tiny Garmin dash mount unit installed.

I decided to leave the Tridata (speed paddle doesnt work and temp is off a bit) ST60+ and ST5000+ AP. I installed a Garmin 8610 with Garmin Fantom 18. I installed a NMEA backbone and a SeatalkNG adapter. This sends the Depth from the tridata and heading sensor and rudder position data from the autopilot to the Garmin. From the 8610 I also used a NMEA 0183 cable and interfaced it with the autopilot. I can send basic waypoints now to it. I spent some time getting that to interface but finally did. It isn't perfect, When there is a course change , the ST60+ will alarm and you have to accept. Wasn't quite worth the trouble but I was bored. I also have a Fusion ra670 and SH GX2400 on the NMEA backbone.

Last fall I put a Garmin P79 ($100) in- hull in for basic fishfinding and depth. I have 2 depth sources now. It cost a whole lot more to replace the thru hull sensors and If I replaced the tridata, you need to replace the autopilot.

Also installed a vessel view BT adapter ($200) to the 8.1s engines. Its BT only, but gives you error codes and diagnostic info on the engines. Ive seen a lot of openbox smart craft nmea gateways on sale and will prob grab one sub 200 to send the engine data to the helm this year. The combined BT and nmea smartcraft modules are almost $1000 so this was the easier route.
 
... Last fall I put a Garmin P79 ($100) in- hull in for basic fishfinding and depth. I have 2 depth sources now. It cost a whole lot more to replace the thru hull sensors and If I replaced the tridata, you need to replace the autopilot. ...

Please explain why you would need to replace the AP because of the tridata?
 
I went with this guy:

Garmin Airmar Smart Sensor Depth & temperature 20 Degree Tilted NMEA 2000 DT800
SKU: GAR-010-11105-00

From BOE Marine. I’ve put it in the same thru hull location as my previous transducer and it simply has a NMEA 2000 drop cable coming off of it, which I added to my N2K network. Did this over the winter so the only thing I could verify was the temp sensor reading (depth requires the sensor to be in water). I went with the dt800 because it reads deeper and I was worried about having to fuss with the transducer because of fouling. Speed-over-ground from my Garmin GPSMAP is fine with me. The 20 degree tilt was to offset my dead rise where the transducer is located.

Did you replace the thru hull enclosure, or just unseat and pull out the old module and slip in the new module since the dimensions were the same
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,112
Messages
1,426,288
Members
61,026
Latest member
NeilS
Back
Top