electronic decisions

Please explain why you would need to replace the AP because of the tridata?

I guess I wouldnt have to, but..

I disconnected the tridata from seatalk network and I stopped getting data to nmea 2000 (rudder and heading). The auto pilot then displays a ST failure alarm that has to be acknowledged. That's with the SeaTalk bridge to nmea right off the Autopilot. If the tridata is connected, all data sends to NMEA regardless if I have the Seatalk converter connected to AP or Tridata. Ghosts
 
I guess I wouldnt have to, but..

I disconnected the tridata from seatalk network and I stopped getting data to nmea 2000 (rudder and heading). The auto pilot then displays a ST failure alarm that has to be acknowledged. That's with the SeaTalk bridge to nmea right off the Autopilot. If the tridata is connected, all data sends to NMEA regardless if I have the Seatalk converter connected to AP or Tridata. Ghosts
The way the hookup reads to me is the autopilot computer into the tri data and the tri data into the autopilot control. The alternative is just plug the computer directly into the controller. At least that’s what I’m hoping as my tri data is dead.
 
I guess I wouldnt have to, but..

I disconnected the tridata from seatalk network and I stopped getting data to nmea 2000 (rudder and heading). The auto pilot then displays a ST failure alarm that has to be acknowledged. That's with the SeaTalk bridge to nmea right off the Autopilot. If the tridata is connected, all data sends to NMEA regardless if I have the Seatalk converter connected to AP or Tridata. Ghosts

It's just what @Golfman25 said. The Seatalk connector from the tridata just needs to be switch. All of the Seatlk connections are generally jumped from one device to the next. So to remove the tridata you need to move the input cable to the next device inline, which in your case most likely is the autopilot.
 
Did you replace the thru hull enclosure, or just unseat and pull out the old module and slip in the new module since the dimensions were the same

My original was not a removable transducer so I had to pull it out. The hole was the same size I needed for the new, which is removable.
 
Installed the dts810 transducer with brass housing today. Will use the old transducer cable by installing a terminal strip.
 
Perhaps this is covered on one of the previous threads, but I am redoing my dash panels and wanted to get rid of my old Tridata monitor. A local electronic vendor near me says he will install some type of instrument (hidden behind my dash) that will read my analog data from my depth sounder transducer in the hull and convert it to digital signal and send to my new Garman GPS. That way I get rid of an instrument in my dash. He said it would be cheaper than installing a new thru hull depth transducer.
 
Perhaps this is covered on one of the previous threads, but I am redoing my dash panels and wanted to get rid of my old Tridata monitor. A local electronic vendor near me says he will install some type of instrument (hidden behind my dash) that will read my analog data from my depth sounder transducer in the hull and convert it to digital signal and send to my new Garman GPS. That way I get rid of an instrument in my dash. He said it would be cheaper than installing a new thru hull depth transducer.
How much is the gizmo? The DTS810 runs about $400. Plugs into a NMEA 2000 network and will feed a bunch of devices.

Previous owner of my boat just installed a shoot thru transducer that game with the GPS map.
 
Perhaps this is covered on one of the previous threads, but I am redoing my dash panels and wanted to get rid of my old Tridata monitor. A local electronic vendor near me says he will install some type of instrument (hidden behind my dash) that will read my analog data from my depth sounder transducer in the hull and convert it to digital signal and send to my new Garman GPS. That way I get rid of an instrument in my dash. He said it would be cheaper than installing a new thru hull depth transducer.

Cheaper labor or parts? A DTS810 (depth/temp/speed) or DT800 (depth/temp) is a transducer that connects directly to you NMEA 2000 (N2K) backbone and will be available on your Garmin MFD (Assuming it is N2K compatible). Either of these transducer will run you about $300 - $400.

In my case my old analog transducer had the same size hole needed for either of these transducers. I’m in Michigan and in heated storage, so I replaced my analog with DT800 myself in about 60m and it’s not a technical task. The hardest part is cutting through the old glue to get it free.
 
Installed the dts810 transducer with brass housing today. Will use the old transducer cable by installing a terminal strip.

Doesn’t the DTS810 come with a NMEA 2000 cable fixed to the transducer? Not sure I would try to splice this into an old cable just to save the wire management efforts. Also not sure it would work after as the N2K cable is a digital signal and not a simple analog signal.
 
Terminal stripe done correctly using end ferrules isn't any less conductive then a plug with pins in the male end and connectors in the female end .
 
Terminal stripe done correctly using end ferrules isn't any less conductive then a plug with pins in the male end and connectors in the female end .

It’s not about conductivity, it’s about creating noise on a digital bus. Causing bus issues will create potential issues with all of your devices. If you are looking to splice then you should take a look at this article: https://www.maretron.com/support/knowledgebase/phpkbv7/article.php?id=656

Just because you can splice in lamp cord to your TV cable line and your ohm meter shows no resistance, don’t expect your cable company to be too concerned if your set top boxes stop working once they see it.
 
It’s not about conductivity, it’s about creating noise on a digital bus. Causing bus issues will create potential issues with all of your devices. If you are looking to splice then you should take a look at this article: https://www.maretron.com/support/knowledgebase/phpkbv7/article.php?id=656

Just because you can splice in lamp cord to your TV cable line and your ohm meter shows no resistance, don’t expect your cable company to be too concerned if your set top boxes stop working once they see it.
The old shield cable from the Transducer I removed is what I'll be using. 40 yrs around 13.8 kv. and control circuitry I'm pretty sure I can make a field connection that will be fine . Look the bottom line is a proper splice and yes making sure it is shielded correctly will be easier then trying to get a new cord with a plug on the end out of it I my engine room. If you can find a shielded lamp cord your good to go.
 
He's probably talking about a Raymeine iTC5.

It takes in all the old analog instrument sensors (depth, speed, temperature wind rudder angle) and converts the data to SeaTalkNG. The SeaTalkNG can be directly connected to a NEMA2000 network with a short connector.

The new DST810 has it all in one "box"
 
40 yrs around 13.8 kv. and control circuitry I'm pretty sure I can make a field connection that will be fine

Sounds like you’ve got this covered. Just wanted to make sure you understood the issues. That link does have some part numbers for field installable N2K connectors and would let you splice with male/female ends.
 
probably go with a five pine of these .
 

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How much is the gizmo? The DTS810 runs about $400. ...

So @midexp is talking about about what Garmin makes, two types of bare wire transducer cable to 8 or 12 ping connections for use with an XSV gpsmap or the like. It'a a way of using an old supported transducer on a newer Garmin MFD.

Here is the 12 pin version. Under $70 https://www.hodgesmarine.com/gar010...Q5gjlu5fzC-h14wG4Hya2UGQL_qWmw5kaAj-2EALw_wcB

And you can not splice anything to work with an N2K device that's not an N2K device or supported by that device.
 
FYI Nmea 2k and the older Nmea 0183 systems use binary signal which are 100 times more stable to outside electric forces compare to the old Analog systems that were easily affected by this. Because it is so stable you can put all your information or Data for your true communication Nerds on one set of wires. All this Data is carried back and forth by two wires the other two are for +,- power and of coarse the 5th a shield which on a boat goes back to (-) post because there's no earthen ground on a boat.
 
FYI Nmea 2k and the older Nmea 0183 systems use binary signal which are 100 times more stable to outside electric forces compare to the old Analog systems that were easily affected by this. Because it is so stable you can put all your information or Data for your true communication Nerds on one set of wires. All this Data is carried back and forth by two wires the other two are for +,- power and of coarse the 5th a shield which on a boat goes back to (-) post because there's no earthen ground on a boat.

Ok, please explain this? Your mentioning 0183 and N2K is the same sentence and one set of wires, none of which makes any sense? Not quite sure what your trying to say here?
 
Ok, please explain this? Your mentioning 0183 and N2K is the same sentence and one set of wires, none of which makes any sense? Not quite sure what your trying to say here?
Drop wire is a 4c with shield granted 0183 uses a little different configuration but is basically using the same communication format. Baud rate changed and the way nmea2k plug has simplified it all but they both being binary made them more stable then the old analog systems of olden days. Was what I was trying to say
 
Drop wire is a 4c with shield granted 0183 uses a little different configuration but is basically using the same communication format. Baud rate changed and the way nmea2k plug has simplified it all but they both being binary made them more stable then the old analog systems of olden days. Was what I was trying to say

Just to be clear, N2K and 0183 have nothing in common, not even the communication formatting. NMEA 0183 is strictly serial communication, if you want to equate it to something then use RS232. You can hook up an RS232 terminal to any 0183 Tx line and see what it is transmitting. NMEA 2000 is completely different and at it's core may be compared to RS422, but that's a stretch. 0183 is not packetized like N2K is, N2K is more like ethernet network packets then anything else. Just using common terms here to describe this, I know they are vey different in practice.

0183 can use just two wires, they don't even need to be shielded to work. Should be when installed, but not needed. N2K CAN Bus cables are completely different in that they also carry power and the data lines need to be balanced like RS422 does. Drop wire (4C) is usually used to for power, not for singling wire. Unless your thinking of cat5/6 network wire.

Now if your referring to "signaling wire" then that is different. Mass transit uses a lot of that stuff and it's very heavy gauge wire compared to the 22/24 ga wire used in communications.
 

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