Electronic interface module

The navigation lights on my 2011 350 Sundancer work sometimes, but never when I really need them. The switch keypad was replaced the dealer last year for the same problem. I am now thing that the Electronic Interface Module (EIM) is the problem. Parts guy at the dealer informed me that the EIM is no longer available and quoted $6,300 just for the parts needed to replace the system; that does not include installation. What are my other options?

We have a 2006 34 sundancer and just went thru the same problem . We ended up replacing the EIM system found a dealer in Stuart Florida sold it to us for $5700 , every sea ray dealer quotes different prices that was the best I found. We just finished installing it last week (our mechanic did it and my husband helped him). So far it is working nicely and is warranted for 5 years. Your other option is flounder pounder also in Florida they have a replacement system for around $3900 and it is a toggle switch system and is a little more difficult to install but they do have a video u can watch .
 
I'm not able to open that link. We've also successfully developed a solution to replace the peanut keypad with a mechanical switching system. The challenge lies in getting that many mechanical switches to mount in such a small space. We decided to use a waterproof box and push to reset breakers instead of the Blue Seas fuse block. It takes some cutting of the dash to install the switch panel. The breaker box is located where the EIM is currently installed and the wires must be routed up to the switches. Since it requires a reasonable level of skill to install, we feel that the best solution is to replace a defective EIM with a new unit. It carries a manufacturer's warranty and is a drop in replacement that almost anybody can perform successfully. The new EIM comes with detailed instructions and a 4mm hex key to remove the harness in case you don't have one handy. Price is $550 including shipping by Priority mail. Email:
james@islandmarinegroup.com
 
We have a 2006 34 sundancer and just went thru the same problem . We ended up replacing the EIM system found a dealer in Stuart Florida sold it to us for $5700 , every sea ray dealer quotes different prices that was the best I found. We just finished installing it last week (our mechanic did it and my husband helped him). So far it is working nicely and is warranted for 5 years. Your other option is flounder pounder also in Florida they have a replacement system for around $3900 and it is a toggle switch system and is a little more difficult to install but they do have a video u can watch .

Hey Laurie - can you post a picture of unit that was installed in your boat?
 
Hi Everyone. We would like to be of service to everyone working on this issue with their vessel. FP Marine (Flounder Pounder Marine) has developed systems to retrofit your vessel. We have systems currently available for everything from Bow Riders to 350 Sundancers.
Sometimes links can fail, so the best way to discover the solution for your boat is to visit our website, www.searay-parts.com and type the letters "EIM" into the search engine. Call us if you have any questions. 321-639-2951
 
I had my mechanic replace my EIM/Peanut pads with a FP 220 Sundeck Kit that I bought, he charged me 3 hours labor. I had planned on doing it myself, but just haven't had the time. The tech that put it in said the biggest pucker factor was cutting the dash, but it went in very smoothly. He actually asked me where I got the kit from, he thought it was Sea Ray because the quality was so good.

The kit is nice and solid, the switches all feel like they will outlive me. It has some nice features, like they used a 3 way switch for the nav/anchor lights so that you can just leave the anchor light on to reduce draw. The only glitch is the horn button is a bit finicky, I might take that apart to see if I can get it to function a bit better.

Stanner, if you are still having problems I had the kit put in by Layne at Best Marine in west Denver.

https://www.searay-parts.com/EIM-Replacement-System-p/sr-panel-eim-br-indiv-sundeck.htm
 
Hi, thank you for the kind words. Please email me directly at sales@searay-parts.com so we can get the horn switch resolved. The switch is a simple red pushbutton switch used for many years on different models. It could be that the threaded neck of the switch is not extending past the face of the panel enough and the button is not fully depressing. there is an adjustment nut on that neck on the backside of the panel that sometimes needs to be removed to get enough distance. It could just be a bad switch. We test everything before it leaves, however, things do happen. Personally, I am working from home today so you can use that email address anytime before, during, or after normal business hours......Ken Gearin
 
Ken, i have issue w horn bought switch from you and that is not the issue
new oragano horn installed it works perfectly when wired direct with external wires.
is there a capacitor under dash in curciut?
horn just clicks sometimes it will blow. any access to diagram?
 
I replaced my EIM with push buttons last year with no issues. I built a new fuse panel with relays and everything worked great. This year I replaced the gauges with touch screens and decided to eliminate the searay fuse panel since it only had one red/purple stripe, one blue and two black wires still hooked up. I hooked the red/purple to power, black to ground and blue will eventually go to a switch since it was the compass light. Now when I turn the key to run nothing happens, no beep or fuel pump start. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the fuse panel? It obviously has something to do with the last couple wires I disconnected from the panel and just need to sort it out. Attached are pictures of what I have done to her.
boat 10.jpg
boat 11.jpg
boat 12.jpg
boat 13.jpg
 
I replaced the eim with push buttons because like most it had started to fail. Work intermittently or some functions not at all.
 
Well, figured out why no power with key on, if you notice in first picture the safety lanyard is not hooked up. From one problem to another though. Displays knew immediately they were connected to
IMG_20200528_153555925.jpg
IMG_20200528_153605850.jpg
mercury system and went straight to configuration. Nmea system is good, all devices listed, bus on and no errors in diagnostics, however both displays show communication error and no data is being displayed.
 
Thank you, now if I can just get the mfd's talking to the smartcraft system it will be great.
 
Replaced my EIM on smaller boat. Got everything working, but now am looking at replacing the shelf under the dash because the radio hole is too big for the fusion replacement 455EA8F0-BFF5-40EC-9511-A4985754B03A.jpeg855F931C-EF8D-4EBF-A65F-D6AB2F1ED83F.jpeg3F518AD0-20E6-40A4-9DDD-D105DFF293E1.jpegEBE6957F-17A5-4A0F-9E71-15BC299E580E.jpegFA3FAABC-DDC7-44B6-AD26-8F17FD2D9826.jpeg
 
Where did you get your switch panels, I'm looking for labeling for mine. I took my shelf completely out, kept hitting my head on it.
 
I got mine as a kit from flounder pounder marine, they do business as sea ray parts dot com.
 
I am going to be replacing The combination keypad and EIM on my sundancer 280 2001. Any advice would be appreciated. And I will be selling the keypad which is only one year old and works perfectly.
 
I have a 2007 340 Sundancer and was having some major issues with my starboard control panel. Some of buttons would work intermittently or not at all. This means I didn’t have power for my anchor, running lights, stereo, etc.

after doing a bunch of trouble shooting and reading these threads about faulty EIM’s and accessory boards, I was worried that I would have to replace them at a huge cost.

At long last, I pulled the starboard accessory panel out and discovered that the 4 pin plug connected at the back of the module needed to have pressure against the module in order for it to work properly. all functions worked again which indicated a faulty connection with the 4 pin plug and the internal circuit board. I then simulated the pressure by using zap straps to pull the plug towards the circuit board to ensure proper connectivity. This seemed to fix the issue and all the functions are now working properly.

This problem is most likely caused by the constant pounding in the water with the wire hanging off the back of the board (basicalll free floating) and caused the plug to flex on the back of the board and losses connectivity

Fingers crossed this solves the issue
 
I have a 2007 340 Sundancer and was having some major issues with my starboard control panel. Some of buttons would work intermittently or not at all. This means I didn’t have power for my anchor, running lights, stereo, etc.

after doing a bunch of trouble shooting and reading these threads about faulty EIM’s and accessory boards, I was worried that I would have to replace them at a huge cost.

At long last, I pulled the starboard accessory panel out and discovered that the 4 pin plug connected at the back of the module needed to have pressure against the module in order for it to work properly. all functions worked again which indicated a faulty connection with the 4 pin plug and the internal circuit board. I then simulated the pressure by using zap straps to pull the plug towards the circuit board to ensure proper connectivity. This seemed to fix the issue and all the functions are now working properly.

This problem is most likely caused by the constant pounding in the water with the wire hanging off the back of the board (basicalll free floating) and caused the plug to flex on the back of the board and losses connectivity

Fingers crossed this solves the issue
I realize it’s 1 year later, but I am experiencing a similar issue. Did the fix u describe above fix the problem?
Thank you so much.
 

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