Engine hatch needs help to open

mrsrobinson

Well-Known Member
Mar 9, 2006
7,704
Virginia
Boat Info
2001 380DA
Engines
Caterpillar 3126
The engine hatch on my boat needs a little help to get going, once it gets going it does open but slowly. I have to have someone lifting up on it to get it going, or use a pry bar of some kind if I'm by myself. Do I need a new actuator?

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The engine hatch on my boat needs a little help to get going, once it gets going it does open but slowly. I have to have someone lifting up on it to get it going, or use a pry bar of some kind if I'm by myself. Do I need a new actuator?

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Mine are the gas pressurized lifts like on a car. Is there a service port to add hydraulic fluid? Sounds like the fluid has leaked out/down and you’ve got air in the system. My .02
 
Most likely you need a new actutator. I've got the opposite problem -- it always goes up fine but sometimes needs a hand on the way down. I would give you the same advice that I should be taking now: fix it before it stops :eek:
 
The engine hatch on my boat needs a little help to get going, once it gets going it does open but slowly. I have to have someone lifting up on it to get it going, or use a pry bar of some kind if I'm by myself. Do I need a new actuator?

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I had the same problem on my 2001 340 DA. Taking the lead from MasterFab, I took the entire thing apart, regreased the gears, etc., put it all back together and the performance was only marginally better. So, I did what I probably should have done originally, and bought a new one on Amazon. Fixed the problem.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XT6B2G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Warner Linear is the OEM supplier from what I could tell. It was a direct change out on the 340 anyway. No modification required--with the exception that it was directly wired on my year--no plug.
 
The engine hatch on my boat needs a little help to get going, once it gets going it does open but slowly. I have to have someone lifting up on it to get it going, or use a pry bar of some kind if I'm by myself. Do I need a new actuator?

View attachment 131435 View attachment 131436
You can change/move the gears inside the pump to make the actuator to lift 1,000 lbs instead of 500 lbs. mine needs 1,500 lbs to open.
 
If I'm reading these replies correctly I'm looking about $800 for a replacement?

What did you folks do as a temporary solution to open and close the hatch while you're replacing the old one? That's assuming it's not an easy one day fix and I have to go into extended days.
 
If I'm reading these replies correctly I'm looking about $800 for a replacement?

What did you folks do as a temporary solution to open and close the hatch while you're replacing the old one? That's assuming it's not an easy one day fix and I have to go into extended days.
My 390DA has 2 actuators and both needed to be replaced at the same time because the replacements aren't OEM and run at different speeds. They were $390something each.
It took less than an hour to swap them out.
 
If I'm reading these replies correctly I'm looking about $800 for a replacement?

What did you folks do as a temporary solution to open and close the hatch while you're replacing the old one? That's assuming it's not an easy one day fix and I have to go into extended days.

I have two. Put the safety bar in place and changed them one at a time while in the bilge. Hooked power up to them one at a time to get them timed perfectly. I started with 2-linear actuators from Amazon to get the hatch opening and closing when I bought the boat so the diesel mechanic could do some things before I moved the boat. About 18 months later, installed 2-OEM units like came on the boat and a world of difference. Quieter and much smoother.

Bennett
 
If I'm reading these replies correctly I'm looking about $800 for a replacement?

What did you folks do as a temporary solution to open and close the hatch while you're replacing the old one? That's assuming it's not an easy one day fix and I have to go into extended days.
Tied the hatch open running a dock line over the stern and securing it to the bar right above the swimstep.

Took about 30 minutes to change out the actuator.
 
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https://www.concentricintl.com/products/electrical-control/linear-actuators/
thes guys are a great price and great to work with. I bought one that was heavier duty than the original so they could re gear it so it goes up and down real fast. Also has built in limiters and position indicators if you care to use them. Cheaper than sea ray replacement.
I called these folks, they will not sell me one because they're actuators are not Marine compliant. I forget the exact terms but basically she said they can't sell them for a engine marine application.
 
I called these folks, they will not sell me one because they're actuators are not Marine compliant. I forget the exact terms but basically she said they can't sell them for a engine marine application.
I think the term is ignition safe and has to do with your boat blowing up if fuel vapors collect in the ER. Not a problem as long and you open the hatch and check for fumes. Err umm, well maybe a problem if you are talking about the thing that lets you take a whiff (this was an attempt at levity and is not to be construed with me recommending the use of non-ignition safe equipment in the ER).
 
Yeah I never even thought about it until I talked to them, they said their actuators are not tested for marine engine compartment applications therefore they can't sell me one.
 
I dont think this is an issue with a diesel boat.
Agreed, shared that and they said no still.

I'm seeing $700 - $1000+ for a replacement. I'll use a rope and pulley for a while ;)
 
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