- Sep 25, 2016
- 1,252
- Boat Info
- 300 Sundancer 1994, trailered tri-axle LoadRite roller
- Engines
- Mercruiser 5.7 260HP Alpha One Gen II, twin
So on a recent thread the questions was asked about "running blowers" when and why.
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/blower-or-no-blower.95634/page-5
I am not going to rehash here "should you or shouldn't" run them on startup, yes you should.
But some side questions as to continuous running, ER heat, trying to get best performance etc. came up. With some valid and some not so valid assumptions. One of which is that the boat manufacturer designs to meet the requirements.
I'm not so confident, I'm a former USCG MK1, marine mech, ASE Master HD truck mech. And these question did bring back situations I have experienced where no the boat manufactures were idiots or barely competent.
So first thing is there are two distinctly different situations gasoline & diesel power. Both physically and legally they are quite different for ventilation.
Around 1990 on a 1984 45 ft Hatteras, original engines twin Detroit 6-71NA, owner re-powered twin Detroit 6V-92TI.
Customer comes to our shop, smoking & poor performance. On the test run you could not open the door to the engine room at WOT. It was physically impossible. With the door open you could feel the air sucked in around you. Turns out the boat did not even have enough vents to meet the requirements for the 6-71 naturals, now with 6V-92 Turbos the engines starved for air.
Saw the same with gassers. I believe it was about a 1994 Cruisers yacht 35 foot with twin 454 Crusaders. 454/7.4 liter engines need 680+ CFM of air flow per engine. Again at WOT you could barely lift an engine hatch. And could feel it give finally as you broke the suction. 3" vents just did not cut it.
Typical recreational boats have 3" or 4" Ducts and blowers. Mine has 4". I haven't looked at a newer boat closely in years is anyone running 6" ducts? Or larger? I don't see 6 inch blowers anywhere.
Mercury states the maximum vacuum in the engine compartment can be 1" H2O. Diesel engine manufactures typically state 0.25" is maximum and preference is 0" (no restriction) or slight positive with forced ventilation. Most diesels will specify how much CFM of air or square inches of venting is required else you void the warranty.
And there lies the big difference between diesel and gasoline.
Gasoline blowers MUST be exhaust blowers and the blower ducting MUST go to low in the engine compartment. This is part of the CFR. Gasoline is heavier than air and you want to suck it out of the bilge and send it outside.
Diesel boat should really have the blowers pushing air into the boat same ducting, low in the engine room. This pushes hot air out the higher "exhaust" vents. And all ducts are providing air for combustion if needed (WOT). But positive pressure can lead to engine odors in the cabins if not sealed well.
I have spent two days review airflow calculations and I have my doubts that most of the older boats breathe well, And really wonder about newer boats.
So what do you think? What have you experienced?
In "part 2" - shortly I will provide specific calculations and I have an Excel spreadsheet that does any number of what if for vents, HP, single/twin, and standard manufacturer requirements.
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/blower-or-no-blower.95634/page-5
I am not going to rehash here "should you or shouldn't" run them on startup, yes you should.
But some side questions as to continuous running, ER heat, trying to get best performance etc. came up. With some valid and some not so valid assumptions. One of which is that the boat manufacturer designs to meet the requirements.
I'm not so confident, I'm a former USCG MK1, marine mech, ASE Master HD truck mech. And these question did bring back situations I have experienced where no the boat manufactures were idiots or barely competent.
So first thing is there are two distinctly different situations gasoline & diesel power. Both physically and legally they are quite different for ventilation.
Around 1990 on a 1984 45 ft Hatteras, original engines twin Detroit 6-71NA, owner re-powered twin Detroit 6V-92TI.
Customer comes to our shop, smoking & poor performance. On the test run you could not open the door to the engine room at WOT. It was physically impossible. With the door open you could feel the air sucked in around you. Turns out the boat did not even have enough vents to meet the requirements for the 6-71 naturals, now with 6V-92 Turbos the engines starved for air.
Saw the same with gassers. I believe it was about a 1994 Cruisers yacht 35 foot with twin 454 Crusaders. 454/7.4 liter engines need 680+ CFM of air flow per engine. Again at WOT you could barely lift an engine hatch. And could feel it give finally as you broke the suction. 3" vents just did not cut it.
Typical recreational boats have 3" or 4" Ducts and blowers. Mine has 4". I haven't looked at a newer boat closely in years is anyone running 6" ducts? Or larger? I don't see 6 inch blowers anywhere.
Mercury states the maximum vacuum in the engine compartment can be 1" H2O. Diesel engine manufactures typically state 0.25" is maximum and preference is 0" (no restriction) or slight positive with forced ventilation. Most diesels will specify how much CFM of air or square inches of venting is required else you void the warranty.
And there lies the big difference between diesel and gasoline.
Gasoline blowers MUST be exhaust blowers and the blower ducting MUST go to low in the engine compartment. This is part of the CFR. Gasoline is heavier than air and you want to suck it out of the bilge and send it outside.
Diesel boat should really have the blowers pushing air into the boat same ducting, low in the engine room. This pushes hot air out the higher "exhaust" vents. And all ducts are providing air for combustion if needed (WOT). But positive pressure can lead to engine odors in the cabins if not sealed well.
I have spent two days review airflow calculations and I have my doubts that most of the older boats breathe well, And really wonder about newer boats.
So what do you think? What have you experienced?
In "part 2" - shortly I will provide specific calculations and I have an Excel spreadsheet that does any number of what if for vents, HP, single/twin, and standard manufacturer requirements.
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