Engine turns over, beeps twice but won't start

boater2065

Active Member
Jul 30, 2018
222
Everett, WA
Boat Info
Searay
Engines
merc
Hi all. Engine is a merc 5.7 efi in a 2002 sundancer. I was at the boat today doing a few things and decided to start the engine and let it warm up since i havn't used it in over a month. Turning the key once gets the standard 2 beeps and the priming of the fuel pump. Then when i turn the key to crank the engine, it beeps twice again (normally i get no beeps at this point) and the engine cranks over and over and over again without ever really sounding like it is going to fire up. The cranks are strong and the battery is level is good. There is plenty of fuel in the tank and the oil levels are good as well. The plugs, cap and rotor were all replaced less than a year ago when i did a tune up.

I don't really have any ideas of where to look next and some basic google searching isn't leading to much. Figured i'd ask around this site for a while before i inquire with a mechanic.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff
 
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Hi all. Engine is a merc 5.7 efi in a 2002 sundancer. I was at the boat today doing a few things and decided to start the engine and let it warm up since i havn't used it in over a month. Turning the key once gets the standard 2 beeps and the priming of the fuel pump. Then when i turn the key to crank the engine, it beeps twice again (normally i get no beeps at this point) and the engine cranks over and over and over again without ever really sounding like it is going to fire up. The cranks are strong and the battery is level is good. There is plenty of fuel in the tank and the oil levels are good as well. The plugs, cap and rotor were all replaced less than i year ago when i did a tune up.

I don't really have any ideas of where to look next and some basic google searching isn't leading to much. Figured i'd ask around this site for a while before i inquire with a mechanic.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff

What was the final out come in your other thread?
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/sheen-in-water.102244/page-4#post-1199178
 
I thought the two beeps was for faulty Idle Air Control valve?
 
Yes it does. The engine cranking sounds an awful lot like if that switch is off. I ensured that switch is on early on in my troubleshooting.


That switch is a troublemaker. It lets the engine crank and tells the ECM whether to fire the ignition if the lanyard is in. It may be on but you need to bypass it to make sure it is working.
 
That switch is a troublemaker. It lets the engine crank and tells the ECM whether to fire the ignition if the lanyard is in. It may be on but you need to bypass it to make sure it is working.
I was just at the boat and tested for spark, there was none. If the switch is the problem, would i get spark? Also, how do you bypass the switch?
 
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I was just at the boat and tested for spark, there was none. If the switch is the problem, would i get spark? Also, how do you bypass the switch?
If the switch is “open” there will be no spark.
If the switch can be removed by removing a panel do so. Otherwise try to access the switch from behind.
Should be 2 wires each going to a terminal on the switch. Either jump the 2 terminals with a jumper or remove the wires from the terminals and clamp together and check for spark.
If there is spark then the switch is the problem. If still no spark the ignition sensor is the likely the problem.
 
If the switch is “open” there will be no spark.
If the switch can be removed by removing a panel do so. Otherwise try to access the switch from behind.
Should be 2 wires each going to a terminal on the switch. Either jump the 2 terminals with a jumper or remove the wires from the terminals and clamp together and check for spark.
If there is spark then the switch is the problem. If still no spark the ignition sensor is the likely the problem.
If I toggle the lanyard switch between off and on with the key turned one turn, you can hear the fuel pump prime each time the switch is turned to the "on" position. Would you assume that means the switch is functional? I do not see an easy way to bypass the switch unless I take the throttle off the side wall. Also, I have removed the insert below the throttle so I have access to behind the fiberglass but the wires run into the back of the switch without a way to adjust them.
 
If I toggle the lanyard switch between off and on with the key turned one turn, you can hear the fuel pump prime each time the switch is turned to the "on" position. Would you assume that means the switch is functional? I do not see an easy way to bypass the switch unless I take the throttle off the side wall. Also, I have removed the insert below the throttle so I have access to behind the fiberglass but the wires run into the back of the switch without a way to adjust them.


I believe you can rely on: "if you can hear the fuel pump the switch is working". That leads back to the ignition sensor although I still feel I'm in the middle of the story not the beginning.

The ECM monitors the switch and cuts fuel and spark if the switch is off. It does not cut the starter from turning. There are several things that can cause the ECM not to fire the ignition system. It could be something simple/complex such as the ignition sensor, a broken wire or the ECM itself.

Unfortunately....you can't just run a jumper wire and bypass the ECM. I don't even think you would find a set code in the ECM for what the issue is so replacing at least the ignition sensor is the next step. Make sure it does have voltage when the key is on. If it doesn't then the problem is upstream from the ignition sensor.
 
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I believe you can rely on: "if you can hear the fuel pump the switch is working". That leads back to the ignition sensor although I still feel I'm in the middle of the story not the beginning.

The ECM monitors the switch and cuts fuel and spark if the switch is off. It does not cut the starter from turning. There are several things that can cause the ECM not to fire the ignition system. It could be something simple/complex such as the ignition sensor, a broken wire or the ECM itself.

Unfortunately....you can't just run a jumper wire and bypass the ECM. I don't even think you would find a set code in the ECM for what the issue is so replacing at least the ignition sensor is the next step. Make sure it does have voltage when the key is on. If it doesn't then the problem is upstream from the ignition sensor.
Thank you. I have ordered the ignition sensor and will give it a shot once it arrives. I did take the cap off to get a look at the current sensor and it is indeed the original, exposed metal/2 wire sensor. Also it is quite rusted.

Appreciate all the input here, I will report back after I swap this out.
 
While i wait for the part to arrive, i decided to remove the flame arrestor to have easier access to the distributor and ignition sensor. However, the flame arrestor will not come off due to the fiberglass bulkhead right above it. No matter what i do i can't get the flame arrestor off (shy of bending the shit out of the base of the arrestor).

So, it appears i need to cut a bit of the fiberglass bulkhead off and i'm curious what folks think is the best tool for that? I have a dremel but not sure what wheel types cut fiberglass best. I have a sawzall, but that seems like it would be difficult. I could buy an oscillating saw.... Anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
The mechanic had the throttle body rebuilt. Since then the heavy exhaust the sheen in the water have been reduced dramatically.

While i wait for the part to arrive, i decided to remove the flame arrestor to have easier access to the distributor and ignition sensor. However, the flame arrestor will not come off due to the fiberglass bulkhead right above it. No matter what i do i can't get the flame arrestor off (shy of bending the shit out of the base of the arrestor).

So, it appears i need to cut a bit of the fiberglass bulkhead off and i'm curious what folks think is the best tool for that? I have a dremel but not sure what wheel types cut fiberglass best. I have a sawzall, but that seems like it would be difficult. I could buy an oscillating saw.... Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Throttle body "rebuilt"? Some pics would surely help with your no start condition and the "flame arrestor" removal.
Also, cutting a bulkhead? Once again, pics?
 

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