Filling deck holes

Pirate Lady

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2020
7,533
Chesapeake Bay, Middle River
Boat Info
Sundancer 250 ‘91
Engines
7.4 Bravo 1
Before I launch I want to move the horn from the front cabin deck to the side wall by antennas next to the helm. Then it’s easy to run wire thru to the button on the dash.

That's the easy part. Patching the 3 mounting holes on the front deck... should I fill and smooth with a hardening caulk, or use West systems gelcoat repair stuff?

Not really concerned with trying to make it like new. Just don’t want the 3 screw holes to leak.

My opinion is go simple, fill the holes with some goop that hardens and call it a day.

Any recommendations on a white goop that matches the white gelcoat?
 
THANKS. I have used West systems before but it seems overkill for 3 screw holes.
Previous Owner put all new upholstery and headliner in. Apparently, the wires from horn to dash got cut. Without removing the headliner, it’s a lot easier to move horn.
 
White Life Seal or Life Caulk. Add a screw with a finishing washer if you like. PC-11 or MT will work well, too.
 
4200 or 5200 will also work let cure trim any excess with a razor knfe
 
Spectrum patch paste is a gelcoat repair, i dont think it is particularly structural however.
 
No but this is filling a hole from a horn. So epoxy and then final with gel paste.
 
I like these ideas, will look into it. Thanks.
You can see horn on front deck. Going to move right in front of the antenna.
21EBB714-2D66-42DB-B519-F612BD05E91F.png
 
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Here's some info on the Spectrum product. http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/gelcoat-repair-using-spectrum-patch-paste.82843/ It's easy to work with, and the color is factory matched based on your hull number. Put tape over the back side of the old screw holes, fill the holes with epoxy, let it cure, then partially drill the top few millimeters of the epoxy out. Also, countersink the holes so there is a wider area for the new gel coat to adhere to. The angle of the holes will make the finishing work easier and more likely to come out without a line showing between the old and new gel coat. Once the old holes have been prepped in this way, clean the area throughly with acetone, mask the holes with masking tape leaving a few millimeters unmasked around the perimeter of the holes, mix the paste in the right proportions, fill the holes to slightly above the surface of the surrounding old gel coat surface, and give it time to cure. Then remove the masking tape and finish the surface with progressively higher sand paper up to 1500, compound, then wax. The repair will be invisible.
 
Not screw holes, but this is west systems 610 epoxy followed by Spectrum patch paste.
I'll sand, compound and polish this weekend.
PXL_20220320_170440149.jpg
 
Here's some info on the Spectrum product. http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/gelcoat-repair-using-spectrum-patch-paste.82843/ It's easy to work with, and the color is factory matched based on your hull number. Put tape over the back side of the old screw holes, fill the holes with epoxy, let it cure, then partially drill the top few millimeters of the epoxy out. Also, countersink the holes so there is a wider area for the new gel coat to adhere to. The angle of the holes will make the finishing work easier and more likely to come out without a line showing between the old and new gel coat. Once the old holes have been prepped in this way, clean the area throughly with acetone, mask the holes with masking tape leaving a few millimeters unmasked around the perimeter of the holes, mix the paste in the right proportions, fill the holes to slightly above the surface of the surrounding old gel coat surface, and give it time to cure. Then remove the masking tape and finish the surface with progressively higher sand paper up to 1500, compound, then wax. The repair will be invisible.
This sounds like there would be a lot of beers involved in this process.
 
Always. But it is easier than it sounds. You just have to do it in steps. The patience is harder than the work. But the end result is worth it. Obvious gel coat repairs really take away from the look of a boat.
 
Here's some info on the Spectrum product. http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/gelcoat-repair-using-spectrum-patch-paste.82843/ It's easy to work with, and the color is factory matched based on your hull number. Put tape over the back side of the old screw holes, fill the holes with epoxy, let it cure, then partially drill the top few millimeters of the epoxy out. Also, countersink the holes so there is a wider area for the new gel coat to adhere to. The angle of the holes will make the finishing work easier and more likely to come out without a line showing between the old and new gel coat. Once the old holes have been prepped in this way, clean the area throughly with acetone, mask the holes with masking tape leaving a few millimeters unmasked around the perimeter of the holes, mix the paste in the right proportions, fill the holes to slightly above the surface of the surrounding old gel coat surface, and give it time to cure. Then remove the masking tape and finish the surface with progressively higher sand paper up to 1500, compound, then wax. The repair will be invisible.
Is there a particular epoxy you like/use?
 
That looks like a perfect place to put the horn. For filling screw holes, I use Marine Tex to fill the hole level full. Takes longer to stir in the hardener than to fill the holes. I overfill and knock off the extra with a flexible plastic Bondo trowel or a credit card. The match won't be perfect but good enough to go boating. Marine Tex will start to yellow after a few months so I get some Spectum patch paste on hand and when the time is right and the beer is cold, I use a Dremel to excavate the top 2-3MM of the Marine Tex, making sure to get into good gelcoat. Then it's just a matter of having one more beer and mixing up the Spectrum, using that same flexible paddle to strike off the excess while holding a slight bend in the paddle so it leaves a bit of over build over the repair. The sanding and polishing is simple and rewarding because there is beer involved. Thinking about it, I wish I lived closer so I could come over and help you with it.........the beer I mean.
 
One thing to add... chamfer the holes slightly, first. You'll get a better bond and a better finish job that way. A large drill bit in reverse can work... or EXTREMELY light pressure in fwd... DON'T let it "grab"!
 
One thing to add... chamfer the holes slightly, first. You'll get a better bond and a better finish job that way. A large drill bit in reverse can work... or EXTREMELY light pressure in fwd... DON'T let it "grab"!
Agreed. Another way is to countersink the hole with a countersink bit. I find that gives me finer control and is less prone to chipping. Either way, chamfering or countersinking makes it easier to blend the line between the new and old gel coat.
 

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