Filling deck holes

Not to steal the thread...what about gelcoat spider cracks? What's the best solution to repair?
 
Agreed. Another way is to countersink the hole with a countersink bit. I find that gives me finer control and is less prone to chipping. Either way, chamfering or countersinking makes it easier to blend the line between the new and old gel coat.
Absolutely. Usually I say something like ... or a countersink. I guess I was "lazy" :)
 
Not to steal the thread...what about gelcoat spider cracks? What's the best solution to repair?
That's a much more time involved repair. But the first thing is to drill a tiny hole at the end of the crack, just barely into the glass, to prevent the crack from getting longer still. Then, you have to widen (V-shape) the crack and fill with gel.
 
^^^^ +++

The countersink bit is the way to go.
 
That's a much more time involved repair. But the first thing is to drill a tiny hole at the end of the crack, just barely into the glass, to prevent the crack from getting longer still. Then, you have to widen (V-shape) the crack and fill with gel.

Then if it's a stressed area, hope they don't return.

I repaired a long one at the start of last season and it was back by fall - but didn't extend any further. Now I'm not stressing about them... if I'm the only one that sees them, are they there?
 
Oh... the only thing I'd add about the countersink is that because it is a deeper V than a drill bit, don't go too far. Gelcoat should not be applied too thick as it will crack. But if fill most of the way with epoxy, poly or PC-11, then that solves the problem.
 
Here's some info on the Spectrum product. http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/gelcoat-repair-using-spectrum-patch-paste.82843/ It's easy to work with, and the color is factory matched based on your hull number. Put tape over the back side of the old screw holes, fill the holes with epoxy, let it cure, then partially drill the top few millimeters of the epoxy out. Also, countersink the holes so there is a wider area for the new gel coat to adhere to. The angle of the holes will make the finishing work easier and more likely to come out without a line showing between the old and new gel coat. Once the old holes have been prepped in this way, clean the area throughly with acetone, mask the holes with masking tape leaving a few millimeters unmasked around the perimeter of the holes, mix the paste in the right proportions, fill the holes to slightly above the surface of the surrounding old gel coat surface, and give it time to cure. Then remove the masking tape and finish the surface with progressively higher sand paper up to 1500, compound, then wax. The repair will be invisible.

What if you have no access to the back side? Do you just gloop the epoxy in there anyway, without taping off the back?
 
What if you have no access to the back side? Do you just gloop the epoxy in there anyway, without taping off the back?
-- Wedge something in the hole as a plug. ANYTHING you have laying around will do. A piece of foam... some plastic wrap... tape... really, anything you can think of.
-- Six10 is great stuff, as mentioned
-- You can use inexpenive poyester resin (or epoxy, of course) and thicken it yourself with, again, just about anything. You can buy special thickeners or just use baby powder or even some saw dust.
 

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