Garmin VHF 315 and GHP Reactor 40 Hydraulic Autopilot Corepack - Reviews

Ok, my mind is swimming in details and questions after reading this thread! Gonna try and convice the Admiral to have this be the winter upgrade project!

I understand that @Riptide III and @Chief Ed and @alnav and @ttmott all have the Garmin Reactor 40 installed. @ttmott has the fancy one with the smart pump and the others utiliized the existing Raymarine pump. Do I have this about right?

If I were to use the existing "pump", what do I have to do to get the Shadow Drive plumbed into the existing "hydraulic" lines? Is there a tool to crimp new fittings on to install the Shadow Drive? Do you have to get them made up before hand with the dimensions? Details!

For those guys with the Sea Ray 44 ( I have a 420) where did you mount your components? Does the ECU get switched at the helm? @ttmott said he wired his up to the main panel, I assume in the engine room. Does it stay on all the time? Just looking for some of the nitty gritty.

I replaced my original Raymarine depth finder with a Garmin DST 800 last winter. I ran the NMEA backbone cable to the bilge so I have the abiltiiy to create drops in the engine room. I'm just looking for guidance on how to accomplish it.

If I hadn't mentioned, I was planning on using the existing Raymarine "pump". Any and all comments and advice you guys can give are GREATLY appreciated.

Jaybeaux
Jaybeaux, it occurs to me that the most important decision to make is where to mount the CCU since the rest of the components pretty much have default locations.
The instructions recommend low in the boat, close to centerline and slightly forward of the center of rotation. It also needs to be at least 5 feet away from magnetic interference sources. My installer put mine in a void below the aft cabin (my OEM RM compass was already there) which meets all the needs except forward of the pivot point. I'm not sure whether or not that results in any degradation but anything further forward would definitely be closer to EMI sources than the spec.
 
Ok, my mind is swimming in details and questions after reading this thread! Gonna try and convice the Admiral to have this be the winter upgrade project!

I understand that @Riptide III and @Chief Ed and @alnav and @ttmott all have the Garmin Reactor 40 installed. @ttmott has the fancy one with the smart pump and the others utiliized the existing Raymarine pump. Do I have this about right?

If I were to use the existing "pump", what do I have to do to get the Shadow Drive plumbed into the existing "hydraulic" lines? Is there a tool to crimp new fittings on to install the Shadow Drive? Do you have to get them made up before hand with the dimensions? Details!

For those guys with the Sea Ray 44 ( I have a 420) where did you mount your components? Does the ECU get switched at the helm? @ttmott said he wired his up to the main panel, I assume in the engine room. Does it stay on all the time? Just looking for some of the nitty gritty.

I replaced my original Raymarine depth finder with a Garmin DST 800 last winter. I ran the NMEA backbone cable to the bilge so I have the abiltiiy to create drops in the engine room. I'm just looking for guidance on how to accomplish it.

If I hadn't mentioned, I was planning on using the existing Raymarine "pump". Any and all comments and advice you guys can give are GREATLY appreciated.

Jaybeaux

Jaybeaux,

The CCU (Reactor) can go where the factory puts the Raymarine fluxgate. On our boats, that’s behind the glove box on the dash. The ECU goes where your Raymarine course computer is, except you have to move it slightly higher so the connectors/wires don’t hit the access door under the dash.

The rudder feedback (GRF10) replaces the old Raymarine unit. If you have the smart craft feedback there as well, you have to get a little creative and drill a hole into the new Garmin GRF10. You’ll need the GRF extension cable (15M) to get the cable up to dash (ECU). 5M cable wont quite make it, ask me how I know...

The GHC control head (optional) can go where the old Raymarine is. Note, if you have the ST7000, the GHC wont cover the mounting holes. Either need to make a bezel, or mounting something else to cover those holes. I put the mic holder for VHF315 there cover them on our boat.

Good luck and let us know if you need any other help.
 
@Jaybeaux - If at all possible install the smartpump as close as possible to the steering actuator. It's the smartpump that integrates the rudder position sensor and CCU data to establish rudder position. The longer the hydraulic hoses are between the pump and actuator the more time it takes to move the rudders so a latency issue can cause the rudders to hunt. I installed the same system I have on the 52DB on my old 400DA (I miss that boat....) and mounted the pump on the transom; there was plenty of room; here is a pic -
IMG_1291.JPG
 
@Jaybeaux - If at all possible install the smartpump as close as possible to the steering actuator. It's the smartpump that integrates the rudder position sensor and CCU data to establish rudder position. The longer the hydraulic hoses are between the pump and actuator the more time it takes to move the rudders so a latency issue can cause the rudders to hunt. I installed the same system I have on the 52DB on my old 400DA (I miss that boat....) and mounted the pump on the transom; there was plenty of room; here is a pic -
View attachment 96739

I spoke to Garmin about the need to locate the AP Pump near the Steering ram granted depending on who you speak with the opinion can be different.

All said, if the unit is full of fluid and pressurized is there a delay in rudder movement and then hunting noticed in the system?
 
I spoke to Garmin about the need to locate the AP Pump near the Steering ram granted depending on who you speak with the opinion can be different.

All said, if the unit is full of fluid and pressurized is there a delay in rudder movement and then hunting noticed in the system?
The fluid is essentially incompressible however the friction and flex in the hoses becomes the contributors to the delay. The hoses are a small internal diameter; the longer that hose is the more energy it takes to move a fluid through them at a given velocity and it takes time to build energy due to the friction of the hose. Remember also, there are a supply and return hose so the fluid must travel double the distance not even considering all of the friction losses in fittings. The second factor is when a hose is pressurized it tends to want to straighten itself out or flex and that changes the fluid flow reaction within. All of this assumes there is no air or bubbles entrained somewhere in the fluid or hose. As the pump is connected between the helm and actuator with tee fittings any hose length between the helm and pump must also be pressurized when the pump operates but fluid flow length is still critical. These factors will change the timing in sensitive electronic feedback systems so it is a no brainer to locate the pump as close to the actuator as possible.
 
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I mounted mine right near the helm on the starboard side, behind and aft of the speaker. There is a third hose you have to mount from the helm to the pump. Mounting it in this position means you only have a short run from the pump to the helm. I have not noticed any hunting. In fact most of my cruising is spent within a foot or so of my coarse line. Page 2 of the instructions gives no mention of proximity to the ram. It does however, suggest mounting it horizontally if possible if not, vertically with the connections at the top. I would assume for bleeding purposes. Your mileage may vary.
 
First of all, thanks to everyone on this thread for their comments, expertise and time taken to share. This is what makes CSR a great place.

I am on the threshold of pulling the trigger on a new AP system. The Admiral cleared the expenditure through SecNav and I'm just waiting for the funds to be released before sending out the PO. I'm replacing my hydraulic cylinder as it has been leaking so that will be step #1. That was ordered today. I've decided to go with the Reactor 40 Hydraulic Corepack with Smartpump V2. BOE Marine is expecting more units later this week. While my existing Raymarine "pump" still functions, I am going all Garmin. When I finish, the only Raymarine I'll have is the open array radar directly connected to the RL80C MFD. I digress....

I'm going to mount the CCU where the current Fluxgate compass is on my 420, which is behind the glove box. I am also installing the GHC 20 control head to cover up the hole left by the ST7000+ ;). I'll have just the one run from the helm to the engine room connecting the SmartPump V2 to the CCU. The "string" is already in place.

The pump will be where the existing RM pump is...Starboard stern quarter just forward of the holding tank. I'm also replacing the existing rudder feedback sensor with a Garmin GRF10. The Shadow Drive will be installed behind the "drink holders" by my right knee while seated at the helm.

The Raymarine Fluxgate Compass and Course Computer will be coming out freeing up some real estate under the helm.

If I've left anything out or you see any glaring errors in layout or judgement, let me know. It will be April before I can report back on the installation. It may take that long!

Jaybeaux
 
I also would like to thank all for this thread.
I pulled the trigger last week and purchased all new Garmin electronics:).
Two new 8612 CHARTPLOTTERS, one with sonar & one without,
GMR 4’ Fantom 124 open array
Reactor 40 Hydraulic Corepack with Smartpump V2. Shadow drive & GHC 20 display
315 VHF
Also thinking about ordering the remote, for those that have it; is it worth having it?
All the ideas so far have been a great read, I don’t feel confident enough to install by myself so will have help from marina staff.
Can’t wait for summer!!!

BOE Marine has been very helpful;)
 
I also would like to thank all for this thread.
I pulled the trigger last week and purchased all new Garmin electronics:).
Two new 8612 CHARTPLOTTERS, one with sonar & one without,
GMR 4’ Fantom 124 open array
Reactor 40 Hydraulic Corepack with Smartpump V2. Shadow drive & GHC 20 display
315 VHF
Also thinking about ordering the remote, for those that have it; is it worth having it?
All the ideas so far have been a great read, I don’t feel confident enough to install by myself so will have help from marina staff.
Can’t wait for summer!!!

BOE Marine has been very helpful;)
J., congrats. As to remotes, there are two types.
One type controls the autopilot:
cf-lg-e89a592b-a8ab-4381-80a4-81f0f1ad5656.jpg

With this, you can set a course without having to reach out to the AP head or MFD. It also has an internal sensor so you can point the remote in the direction you want to go and the AP will go to that heading.

There are also remotes for the MFD:
One is a handheld wireless:
cf-lg.jpg

The other is typically hard-wired but will also work wirelessly:
cf-lg-d9a99090-f143-434b-b617-1a3919a43242.jpg

I have both kinds. While I personally get a lot of use out of the AP remote, I think having the MFD remote is more important. Touch screens can get pretty hard to use with any kind of boat motion. Depending on how/where the MFD is mounted, just reaching out for the screen might be awkward while underway. Having the remote lets you access the the screens without leaning over and potentially losing SA.
 
J., congrats. As to remotes, there are two types.
One type controls the autopilot:
cf-lg-e89a592b-a8ab-4381-80a4-81f0f1ad5656.jpg

With this, you can set a course without having to reach out to the AP head or MFD. It also has an internal sensor so you can point the remote in the direction you want to go and the AP will go to that heading.

There are also remotes for the MFD:
One is a handheld wireless:
cf-lg.jpg

The other is typically hard-wired but will also work wirelessly:
cf-lg-d9a99090-f143-434b-b617-1a3919a43242.jpg

I have both kinds. While I personally get a lot of use out of the AP remote, I think having the MFD remote is more important. Touch screens can get pretty hard to use with any kind of boat motion. Depending on how/where the MFD is mounted, just reaching out for the screen might be awkward while underway. Having the remote lets you access the the screens without leaning over and potentially losing SA.

I have had the GRID below in our last two boats. Highly recommend them for several reasons. The biggest one is as mentioned by Alnav the touch screens become difficult to use in rough seas, also sitting back in my chair and controlling the MFD is so much better than leaning forward. The newest version of the GRID below can be used wirelessly with batteries or via N2k which is the best for full capabilities with the AutoPilot (as I understand) and no batteries or connection to worry about.

index.php
 
OK so the first picture is the installation of the Smart Pump at the rudders. The QD's (red lanyards) are the ones that were under the helm and used to connect to the Raymarine pump that I repurposed to be able to disconnect the Smart Pump. I simply installed a couple of Tee's and connected the Smart pump in line with the helm. The third hose goes and ties to the accumulator which is the second picture and is that hose running under the Racor and connected to a tee under the accumulator. Not seen is the rudder position sensor that connects to the Smart Pump. The power for the Smart Pump is from a new circuit breaker in the main circuit breaker panel. The third picture is the installation of the Shadow drive under the helm which is located where the Raymarine pump was installed. The fourth picture is the CCU; one wire goes to the Smart pump and one up to the helm and connects to the AP alarm and Shadow Drive. All other electrical connections are NMEA 2000 between the Smart Pump and the Garmin AP display and MFD's at the helm. The system has some excellent capabilities and user friendliness. The last picture is under the helm showing the Garmin VHF and AIS installed.
View attachment 96132
View attachment 96131
View attachment 96129
View attachment 96130
View attachment 96128

I did not want to relocate the AP Pump but after Tom’s explanation earlier in this thread and speaking with a senior Garmin Rep it is Garmin’s preference for the AP Pump to be mounted within 10’ of the hydraulic steering ram if possible. I am not sure why Garmin does not state this in the manual but as Tom mentioned Garmin’s rep also said the AP will wander a bit more if located further than the 10’ from the ram.
 
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I did not want to relocate the AP Pump but after Tom’s explanation earlier in this thread and speaking with a senior Garmin Rep it is Garmin’s preference for the AP Pump to be mounted within 10’ of the hydraulic steering ram if possible. I am not sure why Garmin does not state this in the manual but as Tom mentioned Garmin’s rep also said the AP will wander a bit more if located further than the 10’ from the ram.

Tom:
Following your lead, did you order three new hydraulic lines pre made up with ends? If so can you share the specs? I would like to order the same and mount the Smart Pump in the same location.
 
Tom:
Following your lead, did you order three new hydraulic lines pre made up with ends? If so can you share the specs? I would like to order the same and mount the Smart Pump in the same location.
I had the local hydraulic service company come to the boat and make up and install the hoses on site. All I did was provide the hose size, pressure rating, routing, system vent-down, and quick disconnects; they did all else from their mobile service van. As I remember the hose fittings that SR installed and needed to be adapted to were not JIC or SAE and they had to make a run or two back to the shop to adapt. I think also that everything they installed is rated for 1500 PSI working pressure.
 
Have been playing around with the auto guidance feature within active captain on my ipad to some of our known destinations. The auto guidance seems to route me through some sketchy waterways. Have adjusted the preferred depth, vertical distance and shoreline distances. This being said I know you should always verify your routes and I wouldn't rely on this solely but curious how accurate the auto routing is for those who have and use it.
 
Have been playing around with the auto guidance feature within active captain on my ipad to some of our known destinations. The auto guidance seems to route me through some sketchy waterways. Have adjusted the preferred depth, vertical distance and shoreline distances. This being said I know you should always verify your routes and I wouldn't rely on this solely but curious how accurate the auto routing is for those who have and use it.

I have pretty good luck with the Auto Guidance overall. The tricky part (for me) is when you want to adjust a portion of an Auto Guidance route the system will try to double back repeatedly. Figured I was doing it wrong but the adjust path feature is cumbersome.
 
I went to the boat today to do some prep work for the install. I removed the Fluxgate and the ST7001 unit. Layed eyes on when I'm mounting a 40 amp breaker in the engine room. Oh and I removed the helm seat before doing any work under the helm. That made a HUGE difference. Thanks to @brewster16 for that pro tip.

You guys have all of these "professionally" crimped hydraulic hoses that look very nice. My original install is just Sea Star Steering Tube 502 which is a 3/8" OD. The fittings just seem to be 3/8" compression fittings. I am adding the Quick Disconnects per @ttmott's recommendation (thank you) but the T connections, connectors at the existing pump, and connections at the cylinder are compression. Am I missing something? And ignore the hydraulic fluid leak. That's what started this entire project!

20201221_110030.jpg

20201221_104934 (1).jpg
20201221_104850.jpg
 
Curious as to what the smart pump gives you over reusing the existing pump?
 
Update: Received word from BOE Marine yesterday that my Reactor 40 w/SmartPump v2 system has shipped. It's coming in two pieces. One due Monday, the other Tuesday. Now to schedule my bilge guy to get it installed.

I have removed the existing Raymarine Rudder Feedback Position sensor. It is still cabled up (for now). That cable runs on the outboard side of the port stringer. Not trying to be lazy here, but do I need to unthread that thing and pull it completely out all the way to the old course computer, or can I just "snip" the wire, tag it for future reference, and leave it in place? All those wire ties......

I have all the bolts on the cylinder loosened except the ball joint on the ram end. I need two (2) 15/16" sockets/wrenches for that. Que my bilge guy.

Plan is to replace hydraulic cylinder first; followed by SmartPump, including installing new 40 amp breaker in the Main DC Panel (thanks @ttmott). Place the CCU and the GHC 20. Installed the Shadow Drive and wire in the alarm (unless someone talks me out of it). Make all network connections. Then we are going to bleed the new hydraulic cylinder first per SeaStar instructions. Next step to to purge the SmartPump including getting the pump stall indication at the GHC 20 per Garmin installation. If all goes well, we should be able to get as far as completing the Dockside Wizard (even though my boat is on the hard this winter, it shouldn't make any difference. The best I can tell is that the Dockside Wizard just adjusts the way the pump operates to steer either Port or Starboard). The last piece is making the cabling pretty and secure.

If you see any glaring errors in plan or judgement, let me know. My wife just asked me if we were going to film the installation or take pictures. I'll try. I tend to get so results focused that I forget to document the journey.

Thanks for everyone's help and input.

Jaybeaux
 
Thanks for the update Jaybeaux
I’m still waiting for my reactor, smart pump and MFDs, won’t be installing our’s for another month or so.
 

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