Gel coat advice?

Capn Ron

Member
Nov 2, 2006
76
Lake Cumberland Ky.
Boat Info
95 330 Sundancer
Engines
454's v-drives
I have a 1995 SeaRay 330 with some light oxidation on the hull on the sunny side of my boat. When I say sunny side I mean, its the side exposed to the sun the most. The other side had so oxidation. (Shaded side). The boat is being pulled out in a few weeks. So while it's on the trailer I would like to do some removal of the oxidation. Followed up with a wax job. I have a buffer but I'm a little confused as to what to use. So my question is what kind of products do you recommend to use before the wax goes on. I've read about lots of products just don't know what avenue to go down. I don't want something real aggressive. Ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
I'd recommend Yacht Brite Buff Magic and then Starbrite Marine Polish. No need to wax after the polish, it is a finish product.

IMG_5721.jpg
 
+1 that's the combination I use, can't go wrong there. On less oxidized areas I use Star Brite cleaner wax followed by the polish.
 
I've used Megauairs compound/polish (blue bottles) and have had good results removing light oxidation and keeping it away. Their products are numbered High to Low (Aggressive to less). Usually the 67 does a good job. I've used the 91 on some sections. There is a 49 which is more of a compound then a polish.

I follow it up with the Starbrite PTFE teflon polish. It's pretty easy and the Meguairs if forgiving so no need to worry about working it too hard.

I've tried some of the 3M products and they did not give me better intial results and did not hold up over the season, others here have had great results so it must be me!!
 
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To remove oxidation/light scratches/1000grit wet sand (from repairs) I used Buff Magic on a rotary buffer with wool pads and cleaned with microfiber towels. Then Meguiars Flagship Premium Marine wax applied with a DA buffer and waxing pads. After drying to haze wipe to shine with microfiber towels. I have also used Yacht Bright Pro Polish in the past with good results.

-Kevin
 
Royal to get the haze out..I used a wheel in 2x2 areas after I put it on. I put it on just like wax. I found that using the wheel right after I put it on works better. Don't let it dry, it's a pain to get off. Followed by some Flagship wax. I put it on the entire boat, let it dry and used an orbital to get it off. Very easy to get this stuff off. Mine was pretty hazed also, now it looks new and it's 13 years old.
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I've always had amazing results with 3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material. The key to success is having the right products and methods; rotary buffer set to a slow speed, foam pads in a medium cut, and take your time. Start with a high pressure and a VERY slow speed (almost as slow as your buffer will go). Once you start to see the abrasives breaking down and the material starts to look "wet" then you can bump up the speed slightly (still slower than most people think) and start lightening your pressure. As you start to see less and less material working around, then you can turn the buffer up even more and use even lighter pressure. KEEP going back and forth until there is no product left on the boat. Your final wipe with a towel should take 10 seconds because there shouldn't be anything left to wipe off.

Most people try to use too much speed, too much pressure, or stop before they've working the abrasives all the way down.
 
Most people try to use too much speed, too much pressure, or stop before they've working the abrasives all the way down.

Most of today's better compounds are diminishing abrasives and are meant to be worked in. They start out at a higher grit and diminish as they are buffed to smaller particles eventually leaving the just the materials and oils used to lubricate. This it what give use the ability to use a single compound over a range of needs and still come out with a high shine. It is also true that with many of these you do not need to use alot of the compound to achieve great results.

-Kevin
 
I had the same questions around the buff magic, Scott that is a heck of a job you did. There are videos on you tube from shurhold that show how they recommend to apply... It looks tempting!!
 
I just finish my 340 last week. I used Buff Magic with a rotary with wool pads and then Meguairs Flagship Premium Marine with the DA on foam pads for waxing. Cleanup with both processes was with microfiber towel (buy the multi pack at your local big box store). I have completed from the rail base/deck down. You only use a little Buff Magic (painting X's like the video). The paste work fine on the wool pads. After painting on in 2x2 (or so sections) I spread it out with a pass a the slowest speed. Then I bumped up the speed to finish. So far I used a little less than half of the 22oz. I used two wool pads so far and they cleaned up fine after soaking in simple green and taking a trip through the washer.

The rotary made a big difference I tried this years ago on my 260 with the DA and could not get close to this shine.

Here are some pictures with my two sons that stepped up big time to help out with the DA.

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Just for reference on the first picture under the Sea Ray logo there was a fairly large area of wet sanding that I did to fix up a botched repair by a tech last year. Now you can't even see it anymore.

-Kevin
 
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I was looking at the bright buff magic. How does the paste work with a buffer with a wool pad? Most guys say to us a liquid. I'm learning and I love to try new things.

It works fine, however usually I just apply it and remove by hand. I have used a wool pad before, and it gums up pretty quick. I would probably use a foam pad to apply it and work it in. In cases where I have used wool, the product was dry and I was removing it.
 
I've watched a few videos. I ordered the buff magic tonight. I really appreciate all the advice. I can't wait to get this project started.
 
I just used the Buff Magic on our new to us 215EC. It was oxidized and dirty. I also used the rotary with a wool pad. I have used MANY different products over the years. Now going forward it will only be Buff Magic. The shine is incredible!

I also do many other boats in the yard. I have a blue hull Rinker to do shortly. They want the Buff Magic used after seeing the shine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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I'm a presta products kind of boat shiner. I used two different wool pads and started with a lighter cut then polish and finished with collonite fleet wax. I think most all advice in this thread is solid. Key being take your time, work in small areas and avoid these multi products which seem to make you think you can compound,Polish,wax in one step. You'll certainly be doing it over again next year.
 
Seems like a lot of people like Buff Magic Compound and Meguires Flagship wax, but what is the preferred polish to use in between those to?
 
Finely we are talking about boats and wax :).....

I used this stuff last year. I don't think its any better than all the products I have used over the years to get the boat to shine (compound, polish, wax)....but it did last longer...so I recommend the bubble gum wax for sure

https://www.smoovewax.com/

water spots 2.jpg


water spots.jpg
 
I have a 1995 SeaRay 330 with some light oxidation on the hull on the sunny side of my boat. When I say sunny side I mean, its the side exposed to the sun the most. The other side had so oxidation. (Shaded side). The boat is being pulled out in a few weeks. So while it's on the trailer I would like to do some removal of the oxidation. Followed up with a wax job. I have a buffer but I'm a little confused as to what to use. So my question is what kind of products do you recommend to use before the wax goes on. I've read about lots of products just don't know what avenue to go down. I don't want something real aggressive. Ideas? Thanks in advance.
3m pefectit medium cut just finished my 330 1 quart should do it.very easy and forgiving to use.i used it with wool buffing pads
 

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