Douglas Thurman
New Member
- Dec 9, 2017
- 6
- Boat Info
- 1992 Sea Ray 330 Sundancer
- Engines
- 5.7 mercruiser
I am looking for a wiring diagram and perhaps an exploded parts view of a Good model AFD anchor windlass.
Good model AFD windlass repair
- Thread starter Douglas Thurman
- Start date
Cocktail Time
Well-Known Member
- Jul 9, 2007
- 1,208
- Boat Info
- 1998 400 Sundancer, Garmin 840xs GPS, Furuno Radar, B&G GPS pilot etc.
- Engines
- Cat 3116's, Westerbeke 7.6 BTD
Very easy to deal with and very reasonably priced. If you are having an issue with the motor, they do offer rebuild service or at least did a couple years ago. They were very inexpensive too.
Douglas Thurman
New Member
- Dec 9, 2017
- 6
- Boat Info
- 1992 Sea Ray 330 Sundancer
- Engines
- 5.7 mercruiser
If the repair is a simple one, it would be easier to do it myself. Removing the unit seems pretty difficult, although I have not attempted it yet.
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,153
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
If your problem is with the solenoid pack, then you may be better off calling Tom Rice at Good and discussing the new upgrades they have for both the windlass motor, gear set and solenoids.
The original motor is a 2 pole motor; the new one is a 4 pole design which gives you a lot more speed and power. There is also a revised gear set that goes with the 4 pole motor and the difference is very dramatic. The line take up us about 2X faster and the windlass has a lot more power.
The original solenoids were open and not sealed and subject to corrosion and failure due to water ingress. The new control relay package is epoxy sealed and is bullet proof.
Given that your boat/windlass is 25 years old, you probably have more problems than electrical ones. There are various adjustments and several springs that get tired in a Good windlass and you put a lot of extra wear on the machinery and solenoids when the line begins to slip on take up. You get a lot of bang for the buck by sending the windlass to them for cleaning and repair. Removal/reinstall is 4 bolts and 2 electrical connections. It will come back looking and running like a new one. I use the windlass 2-3 times every day we are out on the boat and I keep a Good shipping carton and send mine in every 5-6 years for routine service because I hate hand-lining the anchor on a 30,000 boat with a broken windlasss.
The original motor is a 2 pole motor; the new one is a 4 pole design which gives you a lot more speed and power. There is also a revised gear set that goes with the 4 pole motor and the difference is very dramatic. The line take up us about 2X faster and the windlass has a lot more power.
The original solenoids were open and not sealed and subject to corrosion and failure due to water ingress. The new control relay package is epoxy sealed and is bullet proof.
Given that your boat/windlass is 25 years old, you probably have more problems than electrical ones. There are various adjustments and several springs that get tired in a Good windlass and you put a lot of extra wear on the machinery and solenoids when the line begins to slip on take up. You get a lot of bang for the buck by sending the windlass to them for cleaning and repair. Removal/reinstall is 4 bolts and 2 electrical connections. It will come back looking and running like a new one. I use the windlass 2-3 times every day we are out on the boat and I keep a Good shipping carton and send mine in every 5-6 years for routine service because I hate hand-lining the anchor on a 30,000 boat with a broken windlasss.
