Hand Held Bed up/down Control for 330 Sundancer

A

Adamwest

New Member
Aug 3, 2015
2
Milwaukee, WI
Boat Info
330 Sundancer 2009, Axius Control
Engines
377 Stern Drives
Does anybody know where I can find the Linak HB41000-00 control for my v-berth bed? Linak will not sell direct to me. Alternatively, do you know who could repair such a unit?
 
I have a problem with the control box Linak CB9140AE1-00115. Did you ever find out where to get it fixed?
 
Same Problem here, for my friend's 2008 330DA . The bed goes up, wont go down. It's not the motor. Can't find alot for it online. I could probably rewire it all with a permanent switch in the closet wall, and a 12volt to 24 volt converter, or a 120 volt to 24 watt inverter and a couple of relays like wiring a power window of a car. That would be the last option.
 
Question, Is there a forum or thread for 2008 330’s. I found “Official 330/350 (2008 and newer) thread” but not very current post’s. I had a 2006 290SD and that thread always had something going on, always great info. For now I will just wait for V-berth bed controller to break :)
 
I rewired it like ALARMPRO said. Got a 12 volt dc to 24 volt dc converter and a couple relays wired for reverse polarity. I still have to install a switch but it works. The cable coming from the motor has 4 pins but it’s only 2 wire.
 
Sometimes the wiring harness comes loose and the wires can disconnect from the send unit. Its usually tucked into a wall or something, so you have to search for it.
 
Got it done! came out looking good. IMG_0013.jpg IMG_0014.jpg
 
Rob WIcha said:
Got it done! came out looking good. View attachment 88099 View attachment 88100
Click to expand...
Rob - thanks for sending the link to this thread. Looks like you made a great modification, especially since you got yours to work. I assume your technical issue was the remote and its connection into the control box. I'm not sure if that's my issue yet because I haven't ruled out the control box itself. Do you have a point of view on this? Meaning whether I'm overthinking the problem.
 
I couldn’t figure out if it was the control box or remote. My actuator worked so I just bypassed all the other stuff. It works and I’m happy.
 
Rob WIcha said:
I couldn’t figure out if it was the control box or remote. My actuator worked so I just bypassed all the other stuff. It works and I’m happy.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the additional information. How did you figure out the actuator worked? How did you bypass the other components?
 
I pulled actuator out and tested it. It runs off 24 volts DC. I got a 12V to 24V converter and cut the harness going to it, theres 2 wires in harness. Apply 24VDC to it and see if it moves, reverse power and it goes the other way.
 
Thanks again Rob. So, just to be clear, did you remove the din connection on the cable from the actuator to the control box to access power and ground, and did you have access to a schematic or wiring diagram to know how to the function of each wire? I could be wrong, but I recall the din connection between the actuator and control box to be a 4-pin. I assume there are four wires in that cable. Can you confirm? I greatly appreciate your insight.
 
There’s only 2 wires in dim cable. It’s reverse polarity. So apply power and ground 1 way and it move in apply power and ground the other way and out.
 
Thanks again Rob. I am going to try your approach next week. Best
 
Joe Damato said:
Rob - thanks for sending the link to this thread. Looks like you made a great modification, especially since you got yours to work. I assume your technical issue was the remote and its connection into the control box. I'm not sure if that's my issue yet because I haven't ruled out the control box itself. Do you have a point of view on this? Meaning whether I'm overthinking the problem.
Click to expand...
How do I find the info on the new way to wire this?
 
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