HELP..... 6.2 > 5.7 Dealer Mistake

not done yet with the cabin but so far this is the LED project i did... and i installed 4 new speakers radio 1100 watts sub and amp.
 

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DJ, in the engine picture, what is that cut-off hose that is zip tied near the oil filter? Does the other end of that go to the hot water heater? It appears that the two fittings on the block and circ pump are plumbed together to keep raw water from going to the heater. Which, I suppose makes sense since you mentioned there was a hole in the heater (rusted out, as I was guessing earlier)... if those hoses stayed plumbed to the heater then you'd fill the bilge with water. What's the "orange" color in the middle of the hose? That's not a "plug" of rust/sediment, is it?
 
Hi . . . Of course i saw the boat i drove 5 hrs in middle of winter and snow storm to go see her and put a deposit on it lol
So I have to ask....did you not look at the engine?

I dunno Dude....unless you are just in love with that boat and can live with the screw-ups and not the engine you thought you bought, I think I would ask for my money back and keep looking.
 
What NorCal said. Also not sure where you're planning on boating or where the boat came from (other than MA-->NJ) but I can only assume you're going to be using this boat in the salt. I sure wouldn't want an open cooled boat in salt water. That's begging for problems vs. close cooled systems.
 
I once looked at a boat in the winter. Terms were deposit then payment upon sea trial and survey. I did not buy the boat.
Can you cancel the deal and get all your money back. If yes then the dealer has probably just made an error with the engines. If they will not let you out of deal you may have a fight. If the dealer offers a reduced price then they are admitting to an error. If it is a large dealer I would assume it is an error on their part and would work for a reduced price.
 
i don't think it looked that bad. . the spill out happened in mid February the picture below is from Oct. before she got winterized.

I think your serpentine belt is not routed correctly in that picture in Post #58.

I believe it should go from the alternator, travel down to the idler, then to the raw water pump.
From there, travel straight up to the engine water circulating pump.

ABFD0795-34CB-4C4D-BB6B-639A0E0F5CF5.png
 
...I believe it should go from the alternator, travel down to the idler, then to the raw water pump.From there, travel straight up to the engine water circulating pump...View attachment 55217

That is they way it was on my 260DA. I mis-routed it once around the raw water pump after doing the impeller and it worked fine at idle. When you rev'd up there was not enough surface area to effectively spin the raw pump and engine would overheat as the pump was slipping. Never did that again ;)

-Kevin
 
Also looks like you trim bracket is pretty well rusted. No worry it's a common item to replace at the age of the boat - just get a stainless bracket and put some nylon spacers underneath to allow any water to flow and not get trapped.

Its also not that uncommon to get some water in the rear port corner under the trim tab pump. I would regularly get some accumulation there. I did not like it but it was run off dripping in. Just keep the area clean. You will get water in the bilge - just make sure you know where it is coming from and what an acceptable amount is.

-Kevin
 
So I have to ask....did you not look at the engine?

I dunno Dude....unless you are just in love with that boat and can live with the screw-ups and not the engine you thought you bought, I think I would ask for my money back and keep looking.

Hi Bud, i am in love with the boat and when i when to look at it the 1st time i did see the engine i just did not really put too much mind into since the owner of the dealer said they will warranty and will come to NJ in spring when we decide to put the boat in the water so that made me feel comfortable with them and its in our contract so i think its an honest mistake they made. . . again i am not gonna let them slide and not get a refund or a 6.2 engine im going after them and im going hard. Owner of dealer texted me and we are getting on a phone call at 11:30 am so i'll update once i get off the phone.
 
What NorCal said. Also not sure where you're planning on boating or where the boat came from (other than MA-->NJ) but I can only assume you're going to be using this boat in the salt. I sure wouldn't want an open cooled boat in salt water. That's begging for problems vs. close cooled systems.

Hi Mike,

I will be taking her to the bay so yes salt water. however the marina is on forked river in toms river nj and according to many ppl that is a fresh water river that goes into the bay. so technically it will be fresh/salt water usage. Also i am new to this hobby and i mean it when i say new. 2nd year 2nd boat. How big of a difference does a open cooled vs closed cooled makes? like i said by the time i get back from the sea/salt water i will be in fresh water and the system will be flushed.
 
I think your serpentine belt is not routed correctly in that picture in Post #58.

I believe it should go from the alternator, travel down to the idler, then to the raw water pump.
From there, travel straight up to the engine water circulating pump.

View attachment 55217

Good Catch buddy. I will call the marina and have them check. Thank you
 
Also looks like you trim bracket is pretty well rusted. No worry it's a common item to replace at the age of the boat - just get a stainless bracket and put some nylon spacers underneath to allow any water to flow and not get trapped.

Its also not that uncommon to get some water in the rear port corner under the trim tab pump. I would regularly get some accumulation there. I did not like it but it was run off dripping in. Just keep the area clean. You will get water in the bilge - just make sure you know where it is coming from and what an acceptable amount is.

-Kevin

Hi Kevin the trim bracket will get replaced once this clusterfu*k gets taken care off.
 
* UPDATE *

So i spoke with the owner from New Wave Sale Yachts and they are:
1. Looking into what they can do as far as the wrong information from 5.7 and 6.2 hes trying to find out what the best way to go about this it would be so they are taking the fault and he did admit that he only looked at the old survey and saw 6.2 on it and used it on the sales add.

2. They are taking care of the water heater, Slave Solenoid and investigate why the engine is not sucking water from the out drive.

So as of now i think i am winning this case.

Thanks you all for the help and suggestion. Although i still prefer the 6.2L ill see what my tech's will say about this engine.
 
You should get a real independent marine mechanic to check out the engines and get the dealer to pay for him or agree the boat price will be reduced by his fee. Compression, pull risers look for corrosion, cooling pressure test, raw water impeller inspection, oil analysis (Make sure oil is used first). You can do all this by saying "If a mistake was made on engine type I want to make sure the engines in the boat are sound because I have heard there could be problems with them"
 
You should get a real independent marine mechanic to check out the engines and get the dealer to pay for him or agree the boat price will be reduced by his fee. Compression, pull risers look for corrosion, cooling pressure test, raw water impeller inspection, oil analysis (Make sure oil is used first). You can do all this by saying "If a mistake was made on engine type I want to make sure the engines in the boat are sound because I have heard there could be problems with them"

That's what the dealer is doing. They are paying for the service being done and the Marine mechanics are investigating one thing at a time.
 
That's what the dealer is doing. They are paying for the service being done and the Marine mechanics are investigating one thing at a time.

You need to make sure to be on top of them and 100% positive the do everything that Northern just mentioned. Especially since it's a raw water cooled system that's been in salt water. If those manifolds and risers are corroded, they need to be replaced ...which is not cheap. Corroded manifolds and risers fail, and then you get water in your engine, then bye bye engine. The compression test is absolutely critical here since it can really tell you if anything is wrong with the engine already. Make sure you get those numbers and post them here. I had a 350 on my first boat and the previous owner didn't change the risers/manifolds for 10 years. I was a noob and didn't check things out properly before taking the boat, and ended up having to get the whole upper unit rebuilt a few months into ownership. That wasn't fun.
 
You need to make sure to be on top of them and 100% positive the do everything that Northern just mentioned. Especially since it's a raw water cooled system that's been in salt water. If those manifolds and risers are corroded, they need to be replaced ...which is not cheap. Corroded manifolds and risers fail, and then you get water in your engine, then bye bye engine. The compression test is absolutely critical here since it can really tell you if anything is wrong with the engine already. Make sure you get those numbers and post them here. I had a 350 on my first boat and the previous owner didn't change the risers/manifolds for 10 years. I was a noob and didn't check things out properly before taking the boat, and ended up having to get the whole upper unit rebuilt a few months into ownership. That wasn't fun.


YUP!!!! i am headed to the Marine service now. . . will get back with you with more info thank you all i was ready to blow up this boat and get insurance money hahah. jk but you all have been great and i am definitely learning a lot.
 

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