Help! Eagled-Eyed Mechanics Needed

[ja308601]

Hi, new member here. I currently have a 2006 Rinker 250 but I’m looking to purchase a Sea Ray for this season and I found a 2008 Sundancer 310 for a good price which is a bit of a red flag. It’s a former saltwater boat and I know the issues that come there. Before I negotiate think about negotiating a price (and of course I would get a survey) I’m wondering if any mechanically inclined members can spot any obvious issues in the engine compartment. I see rust but I can’t tell if it's bad enough to just not even consider the boat. I attached a pic from the Boat Trader listing. I’d really appreciate any guidance. https://www.boattrader.com/listing/2008-sea-ray-310-sundancer-102824649/?refSource=standard listing

Thanks and Happy New Year!

 

[electricaldoctor]

One does have to wonder about those rust areas ahead of the engines. Probably a minor issue, but point them out to your surveyor to get his professional opinion on them. I'm sure that he will test all systems for proper operation, but make sure that you compression test the engines and load test all of the batteries as well to avert costly repairs down the road.

 

[dtfeld]

Welcome!

I cant see enough detail in the photos to tell anything. The big ticket items on a twin I/O boat coming from salt water is whether the risers have been maintained. Bad risers let water into the heads and cylinders and bad stuff happens from there. Compression and leak down test will tell the story. The other issue is what do the outdrives look like? Hard to tell in the water. There might be a few other items depending on the specific engine/outdrive.

One other item to consider is the generator...they can be expensive to fix/replace.

If your serious about the boat, have a trusted mechanic go over the engines first, if they pass, then survey the rest of the boat.

In reality its a 10 year old boat and there are going to be things that need some "love" But if your handy, if could be a great boat for you and family.

 

[Jimmy Buoy]

My current boat was a salty when I bought it in 2008. In my case the issues were all involving parts of the boat when raw water flows. The aluminum manifolds were corroded internally which also clogged the shaft seal water supply tubes. Once the manifolds and associated tubing were replaced all was good. The boat has been relatively problem free (at least from any salt water exposure issues) for the duration. Fresh water boaters in my area of North America seem to think that any salt water boat is just a ticking time bomb. Based on personal experience, I'd take any of their statements with a grain of salt.

 

[Ididntdoit]

looks like its fresh water cooled so no problem with the block or manifolds.....make sure it has all the axius upgrades - cant tell if its seacore or not.....check raw water pumps, cool fuel 3 and have the drives pressure tested as well as check the gimble and steering/hinge pins - is 75k really cheap for this boat? still seems high when you can get a couple year older 300 (different styling but same size) for under 50k - Good luck with the purchase!

 

[boatman37]

I'm in that area and familiar with Fox Chapel Marine but not that boat. I would recommend a survey. I have names of a couple of local surveyors if you need them, including the one that did our Crownline

 

[ja308601]

Thanks for the responses. All I know is the previous owner had it in FL and the drives have been repainted.

Separately, maybe I am off on value but it seems pretty good to me compared to what else is out there. Beyond inquiring with Fox Chapel I have not done anything to make a deal. I am still looking around.

 

[JimT]

I did not see the engine hours listed. The drives may have been repainted to cover up corrosion. The price does seem low compared to similar 310s and 330s.

 

[ja308601]

The boat has 750 hours which I think amounts to pretty normal use for its age. I attached a couple pictures of the painted drives.

 

[Todd320]

Hire a mechanic for a detailed engine survey. Most people will recommend compression tests, as already noted. Also, get all of the service records. Review them and see what’s been failing and for how much AND what has not been replaced. Risers manifolds? 6k, 3k DIY? Water pumps? They eventually fail after 10-ish years, and will start spraying water on the engine/alternator/pulleys. Look for a line of rust below the pulleys where salt water is being sprayed. If they have already been replaced, great! If risers manifolds done, even better.
Not sure about the outdrives, but I have seen some really expensive repairs, but also outdrives that only had fluid changes and seemed to be in great
Condition.

 

[techmitch]

Make sure the props are pulled to check for corrosion around the bearing carrier. I second the thorough inspection of the steering pins and Cool fuel modules as these problems can also run into the thousands (each) to repair. The Axiom "Updates" are also imperative for safe and proper operation.

Edit: Now that I can see your pic, I see lots of corrosion covered with thick paint.

 

[M Prod]

Personally, those drives would be a deal breaker for me.

 

[stephenm27]

Check for corrosion at the swivel pins (inner transom shield, top, at steering lever). I looked at 3 saltwater 2009 310's and all were in need of replacement. It's an involved repair that is not inexpensive and highly typical of saltwater Bravo 3's. Google 'Bravo 3 swivel pin' for details...

(I bought a 2009 saltwater 310 4 years ago. It was stored dry-stacked and was low-hours. I didn't find many surprises post-purchase but I did a lot of research and negotiated very aggressively to mitigate risk. Proceed w/ caution and lots of due diligence.)

 

[ja308601]

It seems many of your are concerned about the same issues that drove me to post here in the first place. I think I'll put this particular boat on the back burner for now. Thanks!

 

[Ididntdoit]

those drives look like they had some MAJOR corrosion - look around the prop hub/bearing retainer area - I agree on a pass unless they are willing to replace the drives (or at least the lowers)

 

[Todd320]

I almost purchased a boat with Volvo outdrives, they had more corrosion, but I somehow decided it was okay. Fortunately, the engine oil analysis came back with high levels of sodium in one engine so I passed due to that combined with the corrosion on the out drives, and the 20k$ repair bill for the outdrives, already paid by owner the previous year, but the mechanic described as routine 5 year maintenance!

 

[scoflaw]

I almost purchased a boat with Volvo outdrives, they had more corrosion, but I somehow decided it was okay. Fortunately, the engine oil analysis came back with high levels of sodium in one engine so I passed due to that combined with the corrosion on the out drives, and the 20k$ repair bill for the outdrives, already paid by owner the previous year, but the mechanic described as routine 5 year maintenance!

That's a load of BS. No effin way your drives need that kind of work every 5 years. Total joke by those that know better