Hoping to help

SR Tech

New Member
Apr 16, 2008
181
Upstate, NY
Boat Info
78 20' Seville
Engines
Ford 351 Winsor
Swapped TR->GEN 2 transom
Hello,
My name is Chris and I have been working for a SR master dealer in NY for about 4 years now and feel I can contribute some knowledge to any questions you may have, and maybe even learn a few things.

I have yet to own a boat nor see myself purchasing one in the future, mostly because i'm fixing them all week so my weekends are time to get away.
 
So Chriss do you specialize in any certain area of The boat,ie Engine , Drive line, electronics.... What/I'd like to know? i may have questions in the future..
 
Play nice now Gary, he has not done any wrong yet.

Why does dental floss get stuck in duck bill valves?

Because you should have not put it in the system to start with. (Grin)
 
Why does dental floss get stuck in duck bill valves?

'Cause someone threw it down the MSD.
i'm not qualified to answer this question


Welcome Chris, and thanks for offering your knowledge and expertise.
 
Yes Welcome, I could spend the whole day asking you questions about my 06 240 Sundeck.
 
I do it all
-Fiberglass/gelcoat repair and finish
-Merc Motors and Stern and V-drives
-Raymarine+Garmin GPS installations
-12v/120v systems
-Water systems

I've pretty much worked on every aspect of a
Sea Ray/ Mercruiser motor/drive.

Volvos I see very far and few, and have very little knowledge about their sterndrives. Obviously GM makes the engines for both volvo and merc so those are easy.

Please feel free to post or message me any problems you may be having, as my dealership charges $90/hr labor and i'm sure where you guys are it isn't much cheaper.:grin:
 
Hi Chris, welcome aboard, thanks for offering to help with questions and problems. I still think my boat is new, and I am starting my 5th season with her. I am sure I will need advice from all.
 
I do it all
-Fiberglass/gelcoat repair and finish
-Merc Motors and Stern and V-drives
-Raymarine+Garmin GPS installations
-12v/120v systems
-Water systems

I've pretty much worked on every aspect of a
Sea Ray/ Mercruiser motor/drive.

Volvos I see very far and few, and have very little knowledge about their sterndrives. Obviously GM makes the engines for both volvo and merc so those are easy.

Please feel free to post or message me any problems you may be having, as my dealership charges $90/hr labor and i'm sure where you guys are it isn't much cheaper.:grin:

Ok I'll go first only a few questions.

I have an 2006 Searay Sundeck 240 with 5.0L MPI engine.

1. IS there anyway to remove some panel/part to get better access to the engine or even the transom wall, how do they get the engine out seems there would be no way to do it without removing something.

2. I'm looking to improve and ease the way I flush the engine/outdrive while the boat is in a lift or in the water. I'm been looking at installing 3 valves with a hose connection in the water pickup line from the outdrive before the sea water pump. What are your thoughts on this, my idea is to be able to open the valves one way to push water out the outdrive and the other way to run water through everything else with the engine on.

3. (This ties into why I want to know about #1) I'm installing a subwoofer in the boat and will need to run power and ground from the batteries. It looks like I should run them around the back of the boat on the transom with everything else. The wires need to run from the batteries to the helm storage compartment where the radio is. Is there an easier/better to run these two wires?

4. I know I need to keep my gear oil full and am suppose to use the premimum but also I've read you shouldn't mix the regular and the premium so how do you know which one you have, can you just go by the color?

That's it (for now :grin:) Thanks in advance for your responses.
 
Morpheus,

1. If I remember correctly the seat box that the hatch sits on does come out, after taking out screws and cutting and fighting the 5200 sealer which is practically cement, you will tear a bit gelcoat off in this removal luckily its not notcieable after you put it back on.

2. Your kinda lost me on this one, especially the part about flushing your outdrive in the water. Are you bascially looking for an easy way to drain the water out of your motor? or are you trying to tie in a water system? elaborate a bit more please.

3. Do you have an Amplifier? Your sub should run to it not the battery, they are normally mounted somewhere under the port dash on Bow Riders, or in the compartment infront of the captians seat on most deck and DA's. I'll have to take a look at one tomorrow and give you the best route I can find from the transom up.

4. Glad you asked, "Premuim" is actually the older style gear lube it has a gold tint and is very tacky, used in older Alpha R/MR/TR/TRS. "High Performance G+" is the new style lube and is a sythentic blend it is a blue/green. You can put G+ in older drives that use premuim, you CANNOT put premium in drive that requires G+

Hoped that Helped
 
1. If I remember correctly the seat box that the hatch sits on does come out, after taking out screws and cutting and fighting the 5200 sealer which is practically cement, you will tear a bit gelcoat off in this removal luckily its not notcieable after you put it back on.

Yea I actually saw that came out via the screws but didn't think about the 5200 sealer that's good to know if I ever take that off to work on the engine.

I was actually looking for an easy way to get to the transom wall where allt he wiring is attached. I'm 6'1" 280# I'm not gonna sqeeze in there and get stuck.

2. Your kinda lost me on this one, especially the part about flushing your outdrive in the water. Are you bascially looking for an easy way to drain the water out of your motor? or are you trying to tie in a water system? elaborate a bit more please.

Sorry that is my fault for not being clear. Right now I can only flush the engine with the muff's on the out drive. When the boat is in the lift I use at the inlaws or in the water I can not reach the outdrive to put the muffs on to flush the engine. What I wanted to do is install 3 brass valves before the sea water pump that will let me close off the out drive water pickup and open a water hose connected from the house and open the side to the sea water pump and flush the engine as if it were sucking the water from the pickups. Then after that close off the engine side and open the outdrive side so that the pressure from the house pushes fresh water out the outdrive water pickups. Obviously if its in the water this is pointless but on a lift I seems to be a good idea. A few people on here thing that it's not really necessary to flush the ourdrive as well but it seems like it's best to get as much salt water out as possible. I will probably also use some kind of product like saltaway as well when doing this flushing.

3. Do you have an Amplifier? Your sub should run to it not the battery, they are normally mounted somewhere under the port dash on Bow Riders, or in the compartment infront of the captians seat on most deck and DA's. I'll have to take a look at one tomorrow and give you the best route I can find from the transom up.

Again my fault. Yes there is an amp and I planed to put the amp and sub in the storage in the helm like you mentioned as the HEAD is on the port side, so I need to run the power and ground from the batteries to the helm storage for the amp and was looking for the best route for that. It seems I should attach to the transom wall and go around the whole boat like the other wiring but if there is an eaiser shorter way that would be helpful since I can not reach the transom wall.

4. Glad you asked, "Premuim" is actually the older style gear lube it has a gold tint and is very tacky, used in older Alpha R/MR/TR/TRS. "High Performance G+" is the new style lube and is a sythentic blend it is a blue/green. You can put G+ in older drives that use premuim, you CANNOT put premium in drive that requires G+

I actually ment high performance and not premium had a brain fart. So basically I probably already have high performance in the boat (it's not near by where I can just go look) and should continue to use high performance.

Thanks a great deal for your help.
 
1. Yes that is the only way to get the motor out as well and its still a tight fit.

2. Ahh, I now see what you are saying. My bad, I only deal with fresh water boats so that one flew right over my head. As far as flushing the motor I would just hook up the muffs to the drive with a fresh water hose hooked up and run it and drain it. I don't know if you've looked at the pick-up hose from the drive or not but the hose they use is HIGHLY re-enforced and very stiff. I think you would find it kinda hard to hook up your valve system without having a leak. But your theory sound fine.

3. Much easier way- Get your power and ground off a distribution block under the dash, that way you don't even have to go near that transom wall and you'll save some wire depending on where you want to mount the sub.

4. Yes you have G+ and you only want G+
 
1. Yes that is the only way to get the motor out as well and its still a tight fit.

Yuck! Thanks :grin:

2. Ahh, I now see what you are saying. My bad, I only deal with fresh water boats so that one flew right over my head. As far as flushing the motor I would just hook up the muffs to the drive with a fresh water hose hooked up and run it and drain it. I don't know if you've looked at the pick-up hose from the drive or not but the hose they use is HIGHLY re-enforced and very stiff. I think you would find it kinda hard to hook up your valve system without having a leak. But your theory sound fine.

I figured that hose was pretty thick, but when the boat is on the lift or in the water I can not reach the outdrive to put the muffs on so that was why I was trying to come up with a better/easier way.

3. Much easier way- Get your power and ground off a distribution block under the dash, that way you don't even have to go near that transom wall and you'll save some wire depending on where you want to mount the sub.

I do not believe there is enough amps going to that panel, I'm aware of it as that is how I installed my GPS. I was looking at running 4awg wire with a 50-100 amp breaker on it from the batteries to the amp, I'd rather not draw that kind of power on the line that is already there feeding everything else seems like if something bad could happen that is where it would happen.

4. Yes you have G+ and you only want G+

Thanks for your help
 
Well if you wanted to install the vavles, that system would work. I think it would be more of a PITA to use that then just hooking up muffs, i'm suprised you can't reach the outdrive in the lift, guess the lifts down on the oceans are much bigger than the one I operate.

It really depends on what size amp and sub you are running, if you only have a 500W amp and even a 12" sub, you could easily tie off of that block without any noticeable power loss.

The 240 deck I just looked at has a 6ga wire running to that block, yours maybe different. Also depends on how many speakers you have and if you are planning on running them to the amp aswell.

If you are looking for big power i'd look at investing in a capacitor and then put your inline fuse before that . Mount it all in that compartment.

Your Gps doesn't draw that much, not even 5A.

Either that or you have to run those wires through that chase along the strb side, no easier way to do it, a study snake would probably help you greatly. But getting them ziptied to the wall would probably be a bit hard.

-Chris
 
Well if you wanted to install the vavles, that system would work. I think it would be more of a PITA to use that then just hooking up muffs, i'm suprised you can't reach the outdrive in the lift, guess the lifts down on the oceans are much bigger than the one I operate.

It really depends on what size amp and sub you are running, if you only have a 500W amp and even a 12" sub, you could easily tie off of that block without any noticeable power loss.

The 240 deck I just looked at has a 6ga wire running to that block, yours maybe different. Also depends on how many speakers you have and if you are planning on running them to the amp aswell.

If you are looking for big power i'd look at investing in a capacitor and then put your inline fuse before that . Mount it all in that compartment.

Your Gps doesn't draw that much, not even 5A.

Either that or you have to run those wires through that chase along the strb side, no easier way to do it, a study snake would probably help you greatly. But getting them ziptied to the wall would probably be a bit hard.

-Chris

Again thanks for the help I think that about does it. Still not 100% comfortable justting the power from the power distribution block (I'm assuming your talking about the one with the fuses on it that I attached the gps to and put a fuse in. So we will have to see if I can find someone small to squeeze into my bildge.

As for the flusing I've tried reaching it from the swim platform by laying down and raching underneath but I just about fell in doing that and there is no way to reach it from the dock, I thought about putting a ladder in the water just seemed like it was easier if I installed a hose connection to the outside of the boat, got in opened the hatch flipped some valves and a flushing I would go.

It's nice to have you on the board :thumbsup:
 

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