Hot Water Heater issue

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Just Peachy Farms said:
150
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Do you have power at the element? I'm out of ideas.
 
Just Peachy Farms said:
Not sure how to do that ... water off? Drain heater? Refill?
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Leave your water pump on
All faucets closed. No heat needed. Open the relief valve and let the water flow until it stops spitting.
Assuming no hot water with the 110v on.

To be clear, does your engine bypass to the hot water tank too? If so, does your block have antifreeze or raw water? Either way if no heat from running your engine, then that's where there air bubble is. Either pull the hose from the end that goes to the water tank to bleed which is messy. If raw water then run the motor for a moment to flush the air out. Air in a waterline is a bug a boo to burp so enjoy a beer or two while chasing it.
 
LG111 said:
Leave your water pump on
All faucets closed. No heat needed. Open the relief valve and let the water flow until it stops spitting.
Assuming no hot water with the 110v on.

To be clear, does your engine bypass to the hot water tank too? If so, does your block have antifreeze or raw water? Either way if no heat from running your engine, then that's where there air bubble is. Either pull the hose from the end that goes to the water tank to bleed which is messy. If raw water then run the motor for a moment to flush the air out. Air in a waterline is a bug a boo to burp so enjoy a beer or two while chasing it.
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Ok will open relief valve... let you know tomorrow... thanks.
 
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bbwhitejr said:
My 11 gallon HWH pulls right at 10amps when turned on. I have a voltmeter and ampmeter like he does.

Bennett
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Thanks. I looked water heaters up and 10-11 amps is right on the money.
 
LG111 said:
Leave your water pump on
All faucets closed. No heat needed. Open the relief valve and let the water flow until it stops spitting.
Assuming no hot water with the 110v on.

To be clear, does your engine bypass to the hot water tank too? If so, does your block have antifreeze or raw water? Either way if no heat from running your engine, then that's where there air bubble is. Either pull the hose from the end that goes to the water tank to bleed which is messy. If raw water then run the motor for a moment to flush the air out. Air in a waterline is a bug a boo to burp so enjoy a beer or two while chasing it.
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Hey I have a question about the bypass. I know I have a tank problem. Not sure yet if it’s cooked or I will be lucky enough to find a tripped reset. But...I was hoping for some hot water while we were cruising this weekend. Water never warmed up but was flowing good. I tried every location including the transom shower. You think that could still be air?
 
5Weeks said:
Hey I have a question about the bypass. I know I have a tank problem. Not sure yet if it’s cooked or I will be lucky enough to find a tripped reset. But...I was hoping for some hot water while we were cruising this weekend. Water never warmed up but was flowing good. I tried every location including the transom shower. You think that could still be air?
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Could it be possible that your water lines are hooked up backwards and your pulling water off the bottom of the water heater?
 
Sounds like the "anti scald valve " is hanging up and mixing to much cold. Do a test and remove it from the loop temporarily and see if you then have good hot water, if so try to service it,(soak in vinegar) or replace it.

If you still don't have hot water-- buy a new boat.
 
Sublimetime said:
Sounds like the "anti scald valve " is hanging up and mixing to much cold. Do a test and remove it from the loop temporarily and see if you then have good hot water, if so try to service it,(soak in vinegar) or replace it.
Quite possible something is hanging or sticking. During my investigation I cleared some granular mineral deposits from two faucets. Where would I find this anti scald valve. I am familiar with shower faucets that have this feature but I am pretty sure my galley and transom shower wouldn’t. I am going to start looking for another boat in case I can’t figure this out. Bahahaha!
If you still don't have hot water-- buy a new boat.
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Its usually mounted on the outside of the heater directly after the out let of the tank, (this is where the boat hot water line will be attached to).
 
5Weeks said:
Hey I have a question about the bypass. I know I have a tank problem. Not sure yet if it’s cooked or I will be lucky enough to find a tripped reset. But...I was hoping for some hot water while we were cruising this weekend. Water never warmed up but was flowing good. I tried every location including the transom shower. You think that could still be air?
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Just reconfirming you have a hose T from engine to the hot water tank?
 
Finally got into this and water heater must definitely be corroded. Water in the compartment and I think I am getting water in the bilge from it also. I have been doing some reading and it seems as with most stuff today, they don’t make it like they used to. I have read some posts about early failures on the Whale Seawatd heaters. West marine, Atwood and Whale all look the same. Looking into Isotherm. Anyone have experience?
 
5Weeks said:
Finally got into this and water heater must definitely be corroded. Water in the compartment and I think I am getting water in the bilge from it also. I have been doing some reading and it seems as with most stuff today, they don’t make it like they used to. I have read some posts about early failures on the Whale Seawatd heaters. West marine, Atwood and Whale all look the same. Looking into Isotherm. Anyone have experience?
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I installed an Isotherm Spa model several years ago and it has performed flawlessly. I wanted a stainless tank to avoid the "smells"; the WH location on my boat is very inaccessible and it was not possible to easily reach the WH for flushing. The Spa model trades a poly exterior for the stainless used on the top tier model but still has the same stainless tank. It has a different shape and can be mounted vertically so provides some flexibility. The mixing valve included extends the time hot water is available at the point of use; we've never run out of hot with two or more people taking showers in succession. The Isotherm line was highly rated at the time we bought ours and a quick search just now didn't reveal any big complaints. At the time I bought ours, Defender offered the best price I could find.
 
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Bear Paws said:
Is changing out the heater a fairly simple DIY job or one better left to the service dept?
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If the size of the new unit does not change and your engine room has good access, it's a remove and replace job. Undo the plumbing, wires and mounting screws and then back again. Issues usually relate to changes in location of fittings. Buy the unit you want to install. Take it out of the box and see if there are any surprises. If you are uncomfortable, hire a mechanic.
 
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