Inconsistent tension on starboard throttle

I have a 2001 310 Sundancer with twin 350 Horizons and V-drives. While prepping the boat for launching today, I noticed that the starboard throttle was at about 1/2 speed.

When I pulled the handle back to the idle position I noticed that there was virtually no tension on the handle when moving it between the 1/2 throttle and the idle position. After checking further, I discovered that from 1/2 throttle to full throttle there is far more tension than there should be.

I had no problem with the throttle when the boat was hauled last season, but I did have some work done on the engine a few weeks ago.

The port throttle is fine.

I’ve seen some posts about stiff shifters or throttles, but none about a handle that was too loose on the low end and too tight on the high end.

Has anyone experienced this and determined the cause?

 

I disconnected both ends of the cable and the handle moves freely, but the cable is very tight. I got a new cable and will be installing it this weekend. As with everything else lately, it was hard to find a supplier who had the right cable in stock. I'll update after I replace it.

 

We replaced the cable yesterday. As with every boat project I encounter, it was a bit more time-consuming than expected. It passes through some very tight spaces, but replacing the cable solved the problem.

The cable has a part number printed on the black shielding near either end. Mine was CC63314. The last two digits tell you the length (mine was 14'). Based on the part numbers, my port engine has a 16 footer, so make sure to check the appropriate cable. The new part numbers all have an "X" after the "CC", which apparently stands for "Extreme", so the new part number I needed was CCX63314. All you have to do is match up the part number and you should have the right length.

If part numbers aren't legible at the engine, you can check at the helm end. If that doesn't work then I guess you would have to remove them and measure them, but mine were pretty clearly visible at both ends.

To install it, we connected the new cable to the old one at the motor end, overlapping the fittings area and using wire ties. Be sure to orient the new cable correctly (the ends are different). We then fully wrapped it with electrical tape. Once connected, we pulled the old cable up through the helm. We needed two people - one at each end, implementing kind of a "push-pull" system. When the connection of the two cables gets in tight spaces, you might have to guide it through (assuming you can reach the area). In my case, the passage was so tight, the little nubs on the wire ties were preventing it from passing through the opening. And the tight opening was in a location we couldn't reach. We had to remove the wire ties and just depend on the tape. Throughout the process, be extra careful not to kink the new cable.

I think that covers it. Good luck.

 

When preparing to remove the old cable, tie a small line (like 1/4" parachute cord) or a length of wire to it, then wrap the connection with electrical tape to keep it from catching on things. You can then drag the line or wire through as you remove the old cable.

When installing the new cable, attach it to the line and pull it back through the same way.

We had the same issue with tight spots - wire ways and corrugated wire bundles that had to be thread around where you had to work blind push the ends through. To minimize this issue, keep the connection section of the cable and line as small in diameter as possible, while still being secure.