Instructions to change injectors Merc 8.1 496 mag

paulswagelock

Well-Known Member
Oct 25, 2010
2,194
pa
Boat Info
2018 SDX 270 OB 300 Verado
Engines
Verado 300
Injector replacement Mercruiser 8.1 496 mag

I purchased a new set versus just cleaning. I found an online Mercruiser parts dealer selling OEM set for $349 for the set of 8. That is not much more than having them serviced.

I rate this project as a 4 knucklebuster out of 5. For perspective, I rate changing the plugs and wires on the 496 as a 1.5 knucklebuster. All left and right perspective is looking from the front of the engine to the rear. Keep in mind you will loosen and move the ECM so not for the faint of heart. Also, lube the injector o rings and pintle cap before installing. Also, put a rag over the schrader valve on the left side of the fuel rail and press the needle to release the pressure before starting. Shut off the batteries since you will be messing with the ECM.

Tools needed are minimal. A metric socket set with 1/4 and 3/8 drives and 4" extensions, Metric box wrench set, 4" small flat screwdriver with narrow head and a hex wrench set.

To get started, take the engine cover off using the hex wrenches. There are 3 screws to remove. That allows access to the top of the engine. Careful with the screws as they are not locked in the cover.

Next up is the mess covering the injector fuel rail. I included the picture below so can see all of the things in the way. In order, here are the things to remove:

4 nuts on the fuel rail studs that hold the wiring bracket and top of the ECM. This starts the process of moving things for access.

2 nuts holding the rest of the ECM bracket. They are lower near the exhaust manifold on the right side.

2 nuts holding the shift bracket rear right and lower near exhaust manifold, and loosen the far rear left one so the assembly pivots out of the way.

2 nuts on top left of coolant reservoir and loosen the front one (need to shift the reservoir for access to lift the fuel rail).

Remove the coolant over flow hose for access.

Now you can remove the 4 studs securing the fuel rail in place.

Carefully lift and move the ECM assembly and all the wires on top of the engine off to the right side. There is enough slack in all of this to not need to unplug and remove anything.

There is now enough access and room to carefully pry the entire fuel rail up to pop all eight injectors out of the manifold but connected to the fuel rail.

I started at the front left as it had the easiest access. Use the small flat blade screwdriver to slide the injector clip off. Careful as they will fly away easily. Then pry the injector down and out of the rail. Keep a rag handy as gas will leak out and to keep the hole in the intake manifold covered. Spin the injector for access. Squeeze the green safety clip holding the electrical plug and pull it out half way. Then use the small flat blade to press on the locking tab and remove the green clip completely. Press the tab and the electrical plug will come off. Injector is now free. Take the new injector and connect the plug. Then press the green safety clip back in. Pay attention when you remove the green clip as it only fits one way. Once the plug is secure, press the injector back up into the rail. It takes a bit of pressure. Then take the injector clip and press it back onto the rail locking the injector to the rail. Pay attention as it only fits one way as well. Continue the process for all eight.

Once done, press the fuel rail and injectors back into the intake manifold and put the fuel rail studs back into the intake manifold to lock the rail in place. Then reassemble all of the components removed in the opposite order.

Overall it took me about 2 hours. Access is tough and you need to be extra careful with nuts and bolts, clips etc as once they fly away you will not find them.
 

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Nice write up.

How did you release the fuel pressure before beginning?

On many fuel injection systems, the pressure will slowly bleed down on its own once the engine is off. No telling how long it could take.

If you remove an injector from the rail before releasing the pressure, you can be sprayed with lots of fuel. Not a good thing.
 
IMG_3050.JPG

Nice write up.

How did you release the fuel pressure before beginning?

On many fuel injection systems, the pressure will slowly bleed down on its own once the engine is off. No telling how long it could take.

If you remove an injector from the rail before releasing the pressure, you can be sprayed with lots of fuel. Not a good thing.

Put a rag over the schrader valves and released it.
Good catch, I will add it to the write up.
 
Wow, this is going to be so helpful. Thanks for taking the time to document this as I'll be doing the same in a few weeks.

I'm surprised you ranked it a 4 scale when it only took 2 hours. Was that mostly due to risk.
 
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Risk, tight access, messing with the ECM, etc. and I did literally cut up 2 knuckles trying to get my big hands in places. When I first started it did seem a bit overwhelming but got easier once I dug in.
 
the injectors are standard GM items and the cleaning and testing dose not cost that much to service the injectors
 
BTW, can I assume this fixed your problem?

Have you had a chance to inspect the old injectors to see if they had any paint debris in them?
 
Injectors are standard Delphi but the flow rates are odd and hard to find.
Cleaning comes to around $200 with expedited shipping, and if one injector is bad and needs replaced I would be at the cost to buy a new set. Also don't have the luxury to leave the boat apart for 1 week waiting for return parts. Put that all together and I decided just to get them all replaced. I can always service and sell the old ones if I choose.

I have not checked for paint or flow on the old ones. I was not experiencing any major issues running, this was more PM but I have noticed a smoother idle and more punch in the mid range.
 
I bought all new for the same reasons. I'll have the old ones cleaned and inspected and use them as spares for the other engine.
 
I believe so, however I'm not sure. That said, how do you know which injector is bad? Can you tell from the plug?
 
I have the Rinda Technologies Tool. It has a fuel injector testing mode. I have not tried it yet to see if it works.
I have the CG2, so i don't think I have an issue with the delam problem that the CG3 has.
The boat is 15 years old, but new to me in the last year and I don't have the previous owner's maintenance records.
I think after reading this and other threads, I may be having an injector problem.
I replaced the water separator, wires, plugs, low speed fuel pump, high speed fuel pump (twice), MAP sensor, and yet I am still having a problem at cruise (3,500 RPM). Boat runs good at idle at day, but 12-15 minutes at cruise speed and the boat acts like its starving for fuel? RPM's drop off. Only way to fix problem is shut off motor and wait 15-20 minutes. Acting like a vaporlock problem? Fuel pressure varies slightly but pretty constant at 38PSI. Its driving me crazy. I had two professional mechanics work on this very issue. Neither of them mentioned possible injector issue and neither of them were able to fix the problem.
 
That sounds like one of your coils is going bad. Does a 2001 have an individual coil for each cylinder like my 2005 does? Coils can get to the point where they work fine when cool and/or at low RPM, but begin to break down at higher RPMs or when they get warm.
 
Coils! Hmmmm....I never thought about the coils being bad. You would've thought that would've been brought up at some point.

I'd assume changing coils would be far easier than injectors. I need to see what those bad-boys cost.
 
The coils are available at auto parts stores as well. We changed them on a friends and bought them from RockAuto. I don't remember the price, but the same manufacturer and I seem to recall half the price of Merc parts.
 
Well Paul (I assume that's your name) your excellent instructions really helped me out today to get this job done. I too have big gorilla hands and it was a finicky process getting to all of the injectors. I just took my time and worked on the easiest one first to learn the lay of the land. That really helped with the electrical connector release and replacing the retaining clip. After that it was mostly patience and moving slowly.

Everything went back together with no extra parts left over. Engine cranked right up and ran smoothly. No visible fuel leaks.

Unfortunately a test ride proved the exact same issue exists so this was a waste of $400 and 3 hours for me.

I guess I'll look into coil packs next.

A friend, who's super knowledgeable in classic cars told me that he'd read that the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) can cause these type of issues. Does that sound right?
 
Injector replacement Mercruiser 8.1 496 mag

I purchased a new set versus just cleaning. I found an online Mercruiser parts dealer selling OEM set for $349 for the set of 8. That is not much more than having them serviced.

I rate this project as a 4 knucklebuster out of 5. For perspective, I rate changing the plugs and wires on the 496 as a 1.5 knucklebuster. All left and right perspective is looking from the front of the engine to the rear. Keep in mind you will loosen and move the ECM so not for the faint of heart. Also, lube the injector o rings and pintle cap before installing. Also, put a rag over the schrader valve on the left side of the fuel rail and press the needle to release the pressure before starting. Shut off the batteries since you will be messing with the ECM.

Tools needed are minimal. A metric socket set with 1/4 and 3/8 drives and 4" extensions, Metric box wrench set, 4" small flat screwdriver with narrow head and a hex wrench set.

To get started, take the engine cover off using the hex wrenches. There are 3 screws to remove. That allows access to the top of the engine. Careful with the screws as they are not locked in the cover.

Next up is the mess covering the injector fuel rail. I included the picture below so can see all of the things in the way. In order, here are the things to remove:

4 nuts on the fuel rail studs that hold the wiring bracket and top of the ECM. This starts the process of moving things for access.

2 nuts holding the rest of the ECM bracket. They are lower near the exhaust manifold on the right side.

2 nuts holding the shift bracket rear right and lower near exhaust manifold, and loosen the far rear left one so the assembly pivots out of the way.

2 nuts on top left of coolant reservoir and loosen the front one (need to shift the reservoir for access to lift the fuel rail).

Remove the coolant over flow hose for access.

Now you can remove the 4 studs securing the fuel rail in place.

Carefully lift and move the ECM assembly and all the wires on top of the engine off to the right side. There is enough slack in all of this to not need to unplug and remove anything.

There is now enough access and room to carefully pry the entire fuel rail up to pop all eight injectors out of the manifold but connected to the fuel rail.

I started at the front left as it had the easiest access. Use the small flat blade screwdriver to slide the injector clip off. Careful as they will fly away easily. Then pry the injector down and out of the rail. Keep a rag handy as gas will leak out and to keep the hole in the intake manifold covered. Spin the injector for access. Squeeze the green safety clip holding the electrical plug and pull it out half way. Then use the small flat blade to press on the locking tab and remove the green clip completely. Press the tab and the electrical plug will come off. Injector is now free. Take the new injector and connect the plug. Then press the green safety clip back in. Pay attention when you remove the green clip as it only fits one way. Once the plug is secure, press the injector back up into the rail. It takes a bit of pressure. Then take the injector clip and press it back onto the rail locking the injector to the rail. Pay attention as it only fits one way as well. Continue the process for all eight.

Once done, press the fuel rail and injectors back into the intake manifold and put the fuel rail studs back into the intake manifold to lock the rail in place. Then reassemble all of the components removed in the opposite order.

Overall it took me about 2 hours. Access is tough and you need to be extra careful with nuts and bolts, clips etc as once they fly away you will not find them.
Suggestion for anyone doing this, or maintaining any FI engine for that matter. Buy an air conditioning gauge set hose (or see if an HVAC guy has an old garbage one he doesn't want). Put one end (without the pin in it) in a container and when you screw the other end on the Schreder valve, it will push the pin in on the valve and relieve the pressure (like a tire gauge will do). Easy Peasy
 
I would also suggest visually verifying that the injectors close prior to dropping them into the intake manifold. Liquids don't compress...
 
I have the Rinda Technologies Tool. It has a fuel injector testing mode. I have not tried it yet to see if it works.
I have the CG2, so i don't think I have an issue with the delam problem that the CG3 has.
The boat is 15 years old, but new to me in the last year and I don't have the previous owner's maintenance records.
I think after reading this and other threads, I may be having an injector problem.
I replaced the water separator, wires, plugs, low speed fuel pump, high speed fuel pump (twice), MAP sensor, and yet I am still having a problem at cruise (3,500 RPM). Boat runs good at idle at day, but 12-15 minutes at cruise speed and the boat acts like its starving for fuel? RPM's drop off. Only way to fix problem is shut off motor and wait 15-20 minutes. Acting like a vaporlock problem? Fuel pressure varies slightly but pretty constant at 38PSI. Its driving me crazy. I had two professional mechanics work on this very issue. Neither of them mentioned possible injector issue and neither of them were able to fix the problem.

Hi. I have the same issues, replaced sparks, wires and coils. No luck. Only happens in higher rpms under a load. Not on land. Did you ever fix it? I really need some help here. I don’t want to pull the engine to replace the fuel pumps. 02 26’ Kachina with a 496mag non HO been chasing this problem for years now. Cleaned (removed/serviced/tested) injectors a few times now.
 

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