Launching and Retrieving Alone

I've been launching alone even when I have my wife and the kids with me. I have a mental checklist, and after a few years of doing it this way, it's second nature.

Our ramp isn't terribly busy, however, you still want to get down and off asap. Before backing down, I'll take care of the basics:
Drain plug in...
Transom straps removed...
Key in ignition (not turned on)...

I back down, as someone mentioned previously, until the fenders are just below the water, and then:
Start the blower...
Lower the stern drive...
Start the engine - leave in idle... (this is a good idea, just to make sure you don't have ignition or battery problems prior to launching)...
Hang over the bow, and detach the safety chain, and the winch hook...
Power off the trailer... power over to a courtesy dock and tie up... engine off...
Run back to the truck, and park...

Seems to work for me...
 
I had a roller trailer with a 180 BR. It was a lift different just like someone mentioned. I had to have boat running in gear to release and back off the trailer. Not sure if this is the best way or not but here is my method with the bunk I have now. I feel the same routine is the best way so I do the pre-float list for example plug, bow safety strap, transom tie downs and bumpers in place on proper side after scoping out the dock availability.

I back up my F250 until the back of the boat is just touching the water. I place the brake first followed by neutral to be sure it is holding then to park

Get out and unplug the lights (no problem now with brakes locking up on ramp), open tailgate. Now backing into launce position repeating parking brake, neutral then park procedure.

Climb over left rear tire into back of truck. Walking to bow hook releasing it followed by getting into bow.

Start up with quick warming; slide off and go to dock. Could have someone park the truck and trailer but we are speaking of self launching.

So dock and get it done.

Any thoughts?

 
I like the tailgate to the bow trick however on our boat I don't think it's close enough but I wonder if I could create something that could be like a walk way to the bow from the bed of the truck that seems like a nice idea maybe I should copywrite it :)
 
I question why everyone waits to turn the blower on until the boat is in the water. It makes sense to me to have someone flip it on just prior to your decent down the ramp. That way your not firing up the boat without a proper vent time, or waiting for the blower to do its thing.
 
We turn the blower on when we are in the prep area prior to launch. Then I park the truck, return, give it the sniff test and fire it up. Believe it or not, it can be less than 4 minutes from blower on, parking and returning to start the engines!

Launching alone is no big deal. Back down into the water and stop just before it floats away, tie it off to the dock with some slack, back in a little farther until it's floating and then grab the lines tied to the dock to move it back and tie it up. Retrieving is easier alone because you can leave it on the dock until you are ready to guide it up on the trailer.
 
I think a huge amount is dependent on the ramp and docking available. My example is the town ramp. It is never crowded as it is residents only. There is a dock off the ramp about 25', and it is big enough for two boats if people are smart or in a rush, but almost always it is a few minutes between boats even at the height of season.

When I launch myself, I pull over in the lot. I go turn the blower on, then disconnect the transom straps, make sure all is ready for water (drain plug, though I do this at home before leaving as a ritual)

I back the boat in until the fenders are just underwater. PARKING BRAKE, tranny (no not the funny kind) in park.

Undo the safety chain from bow cleat, push the boat in the water a bit with winch strap still on...jump on the boat, lower the drive, start the engine. Let it run a minute (unless anyone is waiting to go in out, of course) Undo winch strap from cleat, back it up go to dock, tie up to dock.

Go pull the truck into the lot, run back to boat....go.


Putting it back on the trailer, I pretty much reverse that, except I do not submerge the front fender for loading (bunkers) but about 3" out of water on the front point. I also set the winch strap up on top of the winch, and make sure it is unlocked to pull more slack.

When loading I line it up perfectly at about 15' out, then give it a quick shot of gas to propel it forward. Slides on perfect every time. The bow cleat usually ends up anywhere between 1' down to inches. Turn engine off, RAISE DRIVE, then winch it up, put safety chain on, pull away to the lot to pull drain plug, put ont he transom straps, check tow points.
 
lorenbennett said:
Here is something to think about. I drive 20 to 30 minutes and get the boat wet, seems to me its ventilated during the drive, correct. It's the same as cruising.:huh:
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I believe, this is what I have been told and it does make sense,
that the bilge area around the tank is very enclosed, and the blower does way more to get fumes out than driving it on a trailer. I dont know, maybe wouldnt make a difference, but it only takes a couple of seconds to flip it on as a routine.

Plus I get to make sure no beer shifted too much in the cooler or we need more ice before we take off. I mean soda.
 
Yup agree about the beer shifting around and flipping the switch is apart of normal operation. When I take the tie downs off I climb up and turn bats on and blower then get in line. Just opening a discussion.:thumbsup:
 
I think traveling down the road does ventilate some of the bilge. I'm not sure how well though. I have forward facing scoops that push air into the bilge, but that doesn't mean it's pushing fumes out the lowest point and exhausting out the back. I'd guess it probably is, but who knows. If it's busy and I forget the blower, I'll give it the sniff test to make sure I don't smell any fumes. The blower is also my first indicator that the battery is charged too. Mine is plugged in at home, but with our old boat I could tell I needed to switch batteries based on the tone of the blower.
 
billandamy said:
I think a huge amount is dependent on the ramp and docking available. My example is the town ramp. It is never crowded as it is residents only....Turn engine off, RAISE DRIVE, then winch it up, put safety chain on, pull away to the lot to pull drain plug, put on the transom straps, check tow points.
Click to expand...

It was funny to read this...almost identical to my ramp and how I do it.

My opinion on single-handing it is that with enough practice it is easier than trying to get untrained personnel to assist. The most I ever ask anyone to do is pull the truck out of the way for other people as I tie the boat up. Oh, and no fights with the wife ever...all she has to do is relax.
 
pacopico said:
It was funny to read this...almost identical to my ramp and how I do it.

My opinion on single-handing it is that with enough practice it is easier than trying to get untrained personnel to assist. The most I ever ask anyone to do is pull the truck out of the way for other people as I tie the boat up. Oh, and no fights with the wife ever...all she has to do is relax.
Click to expand...

You are sow correct. I have a complete routine and If I start having help either I sound like a drill instructor or I might forget something. During the winter months I back down next to the dock so I can stay dry. I tie a rope around my rear cleat and the guide rails to prevent boat from slipping off trailer and getting away from me. (only happen once before you learn) It's just easier to do myself.:thumbsup:
 
pacopico said:
It was funny to read this...almost identical to my ramp and how I do it.

My opinion on single-handing it is that with enough practice it is easier than trying to get untrained personnel to assist. The most I ever ask anyone to do is pull the truck out of the way for other people as I tie the boat up. Oh, and no fights with the wife ever...all she has to do is relax.
Click to expand...

Same here really. When my friends are with me, they drive my truck up into the lot for me after I have backed it in and got the boat off, thats about it.

My wife can launch the boat if she is with me. I back it in, she drives the boat off and waits while I go park.
 
Sundancer said:
I think traveling down the road does ventilate some of the bilge. I'm not sure how well though. I have forward facing scoops that push air into the bilge, but that doesn't mean it's pushing fumes out the lowest point and exhausting out the back. I'd guess it probably is, but who knows. I
Click to expand...

Maybe not actually pushing the fumes out but at the very least it will help to drop the concentration below the LEL (lower explosive limit) at which point it will be too lean to ignite. BUT I"D STILL RUN THE BLOWER!
 
OK know that we talked about that, how about someone tell me the difference between trailering and running on the lake. My owners manual says to only run the blower at no wake speeds or 15 minutes before starting and is not needed while cruising.:huh:
 
It is more an issue of starting the engine than the airflow through the engine compartment.

Running on the water at 25 knots or on land at 28.769MPH flows the same air through the hull.

But the manual states "below cruising speed" and "before starting" as two conditions to run the blower. I presume you slow from ~28MPH before launching the boat, and as well you are not trailering with the engine on.

They just want to make sure that if a backfire occurs at startup there is less chance for the bilge air to ignite.
 
I could be wrong here, not being an aerodynamics expert... But when you trailer,, your tow vehicle will break up the airflow prior to it getting to the boat itself. When you are on the water, your boat has no windbreak and can obtain unobstructed airflow into the intakes. To me this is a fundamental difference. Not that I would chance NOT running the blower. Better safe than a mushroom cloud!
 
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