Major QSC engine work

[Captsteve427]

My mechanic is coming back tomorrow, after 2-weeks of sourcing parts and performing work on my engines! We went through hell trying to find new Aftercoolers.... I found one at an Alaska Cummins dealer and he received the other from a back order from Cummins.
Then we found out after dry fitting them, that new after coolers require new brackets @ $250.00 each, which came in today and just in time to to finalize the engine work for the weekend!
I'm looking forward to getting extended life from them with the fresh water flush out valves I installed over the winter!

 

[Almightys]

Getting closer to enjoying her I see!

 

[Havana Shamrock]

Hopefully you’ll be up and running soon, what’s your thoughts on removing the valve handles or securing them so they’re not accidentally opened I know they’re probably stiff, but that’s the first thing I thought of when looking at the pics. Nice work

 

[Captsteve427]

Hopefully you’ll be up and running soon, what’s your thoughts on removing the valve handles or securing them so they’re not accidentally opened I know they’re probably stiff, but that’s the first thing I thought of when looking at the pics. Nice work

Thnx, It was a thought..... I'm trying to find the T-handles that some ball valves have to replace them with.

 

[Strecker25]

Or maybe a quick disconnect instead of the thread as sort of a fail safe measure? I’m not sure I’d they’re a one way valve in the opposite direction though so it might only stop water from coming into the boat and not necessarily stop your engine from sucking air if opened while underway.

SHOWNEW Garden Hose Quick Connectors, Solid Brass 3/4 inch GHT Thread Easy Connect Fittings No-Leak Water Hose Male Female Value Pack (5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SGFV92D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A5WTWBSX7AG17SZ2MGZA

 

[Captsteve427]

I think I’m going with the setup another member did, but install and connect it to a bulkhead flush out inlet in the stern trunk so that I don’t have to bring the hose into the engine room every time I do an engine flush. The extra set of valves also offer more protection.

 

[Shaps]

I have the same seaboard fresh water flush on my groco strainers. I would be concerned with the flow if I added those quick connects.
I am the only one down in the ER (other than mechanic) and check the valve before I leave the boat and before start up.

@Captsteve427
How did you get (and keep) your strainers so shiny?
nice work!

 

[Captsteve427]

Thnx. I removed them over the winter to replace the gaskets, drill and tap the caps for the fresh water flush hardware, then polished and clear coated them.

 

[Captsteve427]

The work is finally done, but took the boat for a test ride with the wife after work to find raw water dripping from the hose clamps at the top of each new after cooler. I can tighten them myself, but for the major coin I paid the Cummins dealer for this work, he's going to have to come back.

 

[Captsteve427]

Does anybody have an idea on why I would be getting an intermittent oil drip out of the bottom of the engines raw water pump, which mounts to the engine?
I assume there is a gasket there and hoping all that needs to be done is change it out.

 

[b_arrington]

Those aftercoolers are the new style MOTO ones, yes?

I have the Seaboard fresh water flush fitting on my Groco strainer, with a quick-connect fitting. It's basically a full-port fitting that allows for full flow. The end mounted on the cap seals when the hose is removed as a backup to the handle shut-off.

On the oil drip, I think the pump for the QSC is gear driven vs. pulley driven. Off-hand I can't think of why oil would be dripping from a gasket on the water side - there shouldn't be oil on the water side. But maybe if there was a seal on gear side that was bad that might cause it. This is a pic of the water pump - maybe a gasket on the back side of the black flange?

 

[becnme]

I would keep an eye on that. It sounds like the shaft seal is going bad.

 

[Captsteve427]

Those aftercoolers are the new style MOTO ones, yes?

I have the Seaboard fresh water flush fitting on my Groco strainer, with a quick-connect fitting. It's basically a full-port fitting that allows for full flow. The end mounted on the cap seals when the hose is removed as a backup to the handle shut-off.

On the oil drip, I think the pump for the QSC is gear driven vs. pulley driven. Off-hand I can't think of why oil would be dripping from a gasket on the water side - there shouldn't be oil on the water side. But maybe if there was a seal on gear side that was bad that might cause it. This is a pic of the water pump - maybe a gasket on the back side of the black flange?

Yes, those are the new MOTO units.
I did end up drilling and tapping the engine strainer caps for a ball valve and then piped them into a flush out deck fitting in the transom locker seen in the below images. I leave the engines running when I return to my slip and individually flush each engine with fresh water for ten minutes, once the hose is hooked up.
As for the raw pump... after some research, I found it's gear driven and it appears there is a football shaped gasket between the pump and engine block.
Does this mean I have to drain the oil to change out the gasket?

 

[BlueYonder]

According to Quickserve, it looks like there is an O ring involved. Did the mechanic remove the water pump when he did the work?

 

[b_arrington]

Yes, those are the new MOTO units.
I actually drilled and tapped the engine strainers for a ball valve and then piped them into a flush out deck fitting in the transom locker.
The pump is gear driven and after some research, it appears there is a football shaped gasket between the pump and engine block.
Does this mean I have to drain the oil to change out the gasket?

I haven’t gotten to running the flush lines to the cockpit yet. It’s on a to do list. For now it’s really easy to get into the engine space to attach the hose.

Don’t know on the oil question.

 

[Captsteve427]

No work was done on the pump, other than the replacement of the impeller.

 

[HP12Sea]

raw water dripping from the hose clamps at the top of each new after cooler.

Sorry but shouldn't the top be air and not water?

Maybe I'm missing/not understanding something.

 

[BlueYonder]

As long as the water pump is above the level of the oil pan, I doubt if you need to drain the oil before removing the water pump. The guys over at Boatdiesel.com could probably give you a definitive answer.

 

[lawndoctor]

Yes, those are the new MOTO units.
I did end up drilling and tapping the engine strainer caps for a ball valve and then piped them into a flush out deck fitting in the transom locker seen in the below images. I leave the engines running when I return to my slip and individually flush each engine with fresh water for ten minutes, once the hose is hooked up.
As for the raw pump... after some research, I found it's gear driven and it appears there is a football shaped gasket between the pump and engine block.
Does this mean I have to drain the oil to change out the gasket?

Nice setup. Where did you get the deck fitting labeled "engine flush"? I've only seen the ones labeled "washdown."

 

[Captsteve427]

Nice setup. Where did you get the deck fitting labeled "engine flush"? I've only seen the ones labeled "washdown."

I purchased it from the company that makes it for Reverso, which sells it as part of their flush out system, but for much more money.

Contact this company and tell them you want it to say Engine Flush on the plate. I paid $100.00 with the blue quick connect hose fitting, S&H included.

https://www.aquorwatersystems.com/collections/for-your-boat