Mid-90's 270 Sundancer Thread

I see thats for a 96/97 270. They are pretty much the same as the 94 right?
 
Question concerning compass

I have been unable to find anything online about this, so thought I'd check with the Collective.
This compass is, as far as I know, original and complete, so I'm wondering what purpose the "cowl" serves. Is it simply to move a light around to improve visibility?
Education on this device is most appreciated.

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Re: Question concerning compass

I have been unable to find anything online about this, so thought I'd check with the Collective.
This compass is, as far as I know, original and complete, so I'm wondering what purpose the "cowl" serves. Is it simply to move a light around to improve visibility?
Education on this device is most appreciated.

That is correct. During the day it is a visor, at night, you can position the light.

Bryan
 
Thanks for the confirmation Bryan. According to the Ritchie website, all their compasses are oil filled while mine is definitely dry. I'm going to have to pull it and see what is going on there.
Just another chance to document a DIY project!
 
Today I removed the v-berth mirror and installed a television. I purchased a Vizio 32" LED for this install. Initially I thought the outline of where the mirror has been for the past 21 years would stick out on each side of the TV and be distracting. Turns out the 32" TV just barely fits in the space between the cabin lights. I had initially planned on installing a sound bar with blue tooth subwoofer, but there really isn't any room for that here. Fortunately I have a couple UE Megabooms to connect to the television as well as my phone and tablet.
So here's the pics:

Before -
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There are four bolts inside the chain locker that have to be removed -

AA36ADE0-FE38-4092-98E3-FBBD17009560_zpsxvbm4vny.jpg


The mirror, which is mounted to an MDF board simply pulls off -

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Television in place. Rather than try to wire in an outlet I purchased a nine foot fabric covered extension cord. -
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Ritchie compass replacement

I am posting this to help anybody that may need to replace their mid-90's era Ritchie compass.
My factory installed Ritchie Voyager Flush Mount compass has a label with serial number and model number. That model number is F-83W; the W stands for white.
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As you can see, the dial is not flat, even though it isn't a combi-dial, it is shaped like one. It also has three mounting screws and a single LED light in the cowl.
12379D05-0C7B-48EE-8209-8C1F67863874_zpssihzku3q.jpg


However, if you order a new F-83W, what you get is this:
F-83W_zpspmdveuzd.jpg

As you can see, it comes with the combi-dial, but it also comes with two LEDs and four screw holes. This new unit was not a direct fit replacement on my boat, either. The hole for the body to sit down in is larger than OEM. Not by much - I was able to enlarge mine using a sanding drum on a Dremel tool. It also requires a very small drill or a 90 degree drill to make holes for the four screws.
If you don't want to modify your helm to accept the larger bodied compass, you will need to order a Ritchie F-82W or F-82B (depending on color choice).
The F-82 appears to be identical to the old F-83 except for the dial. But it is a direct fit replacement.

F-82W_zps475uygwp.jpg

:smt024
 
Tambour door replacement

Well I think I'm calling this project finished.
When my port lights leaked the port side cabinets took on water, which the tambour doors promptly soaked up. Since they are a wood veneer on (basically) compressed paper, they swelled up and came apart. Additionally, one tambour door had been completely missing since I bought the boat.
Not a big fan of the wood blocks Sea Ray used as door handles, so I went to Lowe's and got some nice shiny chrome handles to match the trim.
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As you can see by the blue tape, I am still in the process of re bedding the port lights. I'm just waiting for warmer weather so the caulk can properly cure.
 
Re: Tambour door replacement

Here's a before picture. While it doesn't show the water damage well, it does show the original handles.
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As you can see by the blue tape, I am still in the process of re bedding the port lights. I'm just waiting for warmer weather so the caulk can properly cure.

Man, those doors look nice! We're the tambour doors difficult to make? When I bought my 270, it was missing three doors and I'm having a hard time finding replacements.
 
Thanks Barry, I am pleased with them.
As for difficulty, well, I can make anything harder than it needs to be!
Your only choice for door replacement is to make your own, as far as I know. You might as well replace all five doors to ensure they match, since it won't really add appreciably to the cost.
The tambour material comes in sheets. OEM uses a wood veneer on MDF which will fall apart completely if it gets wet. I chose to use the same stuff due to cost, but now wish I had gone with solid wood tambour. Woodwaves.com is your best source for tambour. I used maple and sealed it with clear polyurethane. It ends up being a shade or two lighter than original, but that's probably due to the age difference.
You can get your track here: http://www.wwhardware.com/omega-national-spiral-track-system-brown-npst21-brn It's a direct replacement for the track on the two starboard side doors, just trim to fit. The port side doors require the tabs to be cut off the plastic track and screw holes drilled through the track. Don't forget to countersink the holes! If you have the two curved doors like I do, they can be more challenging. Sea Ray cut slots in mine to allow it to curve, but this can cause snags if it doesn't line up right. I'm thinking a heat gun is the ticket for a custom fit.
Finally, use #6 x 1/2 oval Phillips sheet metal stainless steel screws available at Lowe's. They come 12 to a blister pack. You'll use six per door.
Hope this helps!
 
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Thanks For the info Leon. All but one starboard door was missing when I acquired my 270. At least now I can get the right hardware to do the replacement. Thanks again
 
Thanks For the info Leon. All but one starboard door was missing when I acquired my 270. At least now I can get the right hardware to do the replacement. Thanks again

Perhaps I can help a bit more then. Here are some dimensions for you:
the port side aft doors (the curved ones) are 8" tall and 16 3/4" wide.
the port side forward door is 7 1/4" tall and 18 1/4" wide.
the starboard side upper door is 10" tall and 14 3/4" wide.
I don't have the measurements for the starboard side lower door handy because the original was missing and I just eyeballed the new one which happened to work out.
On the backside of the tambour, you are going to want to trim away the fabric top and bottom to allow more room inside the track.
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Here's an example of a new track. Just cut to length on starboard. On port, remove that tab and drill screw holes through the track:

9FDD8464-CA16-4E34-BCDB-65F10A13C68F_zpsedtst5eu.jpg
 
Perhaps I can help a bit more then. Here are some dimensions for you:
the port side aft doors (the curved ones) are 8" tall and 16 3/4" wide.
the port side forward door is 7 1/4" tall and 18 1/4" wide.
the starboard side upper door is 10" tall and 14 3/4" wide.
I don't have the measurements for the starboard side lower door handy because the original was missing and I just eyeballed the new one which happened to work out.
On the backside of the tambour, you are going to want to trim away the fabric top and bottom to allow more room inside the track.
8EDBA9B2-8C8E-40D7-9B5C-F0B0E78DC7D4_zpsc1vz7kso.jpg


Here's an example of a new track. Just cut to length on starboard. On port, remove that tab and drill screw holes through the track:

9FDD8464-CA16-4E34-BCDB-65F10A13C68F_zpsedtst5eu.jpg
Thanks! That will help a lot
 
Re: Tambour door replacement

Hi Folks:
New to the site, Ive had a 83 260DA forever, ready for a newer one found a 2000 that looks good. My 83 runs great but with 250HP Alpha Drive is a little underpowered. This newer boat has a Bravo,dual props and I think 300HP. How do you think it will compare? Anything you can think to look for would be appreciated....Thanks
 
I just had the score of a lifetime! I needed a new tach for my 96 270 dancer. Its the black bezel ring and the hourmeter on it stopped functioning at 546 hrs last year. I found these gauges to be pure unobtanium...with none on ebay or CL and none at any dealer or supplier anywhere in the country. The searay listed replacement is a polished trim ring...sure...that will look real good in the middle of my black ones.
So...I kept checking CL for anything and everything searay and low and behold a 1997 weekender with twin engines showed up "for parts" in Hamtramck, Mi about 25 minutes from me. The hull had been totaled in a trailer accident with a concrete abutment. I bought the entire beautiful chrome bezel instrument cluster and dash panel for $500. All of the wires are identical with the connections in the same patterns. It shows 376 hours. I figure that I should do well on the other black unobtainium gauges from mine, and somebody might even want the tach regardless of the stuck hourmeter. Obviously the polished bezel set can be sold on Ebay individually too. I think I will end up money ahead on this deal instead of paying out $300 for a new tach that does not even match. Whew...pure luck and perseverance.
 

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